Recent content by gasIdaho

Mine spooges depending on which kind of oil I'm running. Spooges quite a bit when I run Maxima Super-M, some using Ams Dominator. I switched to Maxima Castor 927 and my pipe is dry as a bone. No other changes were made but all situations on a freshly packed muffler. I don't think it matters...

Can you send me a private message with prices....specifically on the 250 and 300 models.

The E-line is junk....don't get it unless you want big, hidden dents!

bump................

Bike runs great. Plastics are haggered looking but not broken. Contact me for details.....$3000 Mike Driggs, ID - IMS 3.4 gal tank - Rekluse - RB Carb Mod - RB mod head - NEW Ricochet Skid plate - NEW Fastway pegs - Newly revalved LTR shock - Cycra Composite Pro Bend Handguards - and more

I got 2 rides on it then broke my leg so I'm out for the next 3 months. It is way better than the CRD I had. Beefy, easy to mount, holes line up, etc. I put some thin closed-cell foam on the frame rails and there is virtually no vibration. I definitely recommend it!

Curtis, I live in Driggs and ride mostly above 6000ft. I use a CEK in my 05' 300(#7 slide). I did have the head mod and carb mod done. The LTR needle never worked well for me before or after the afore mentioned mods. I think the 'Keihin' website has a good visual chart that will help the needle...

My EC300 ran like this when my power valve was stuck open(or shut?) . The nut holding the PV actuator arm had fallen off.

Thx to all for the replies. I don't have an impact wrench but there is a shop in town if I can't get it to tighten up. Talked to Les and he said I should be able to get it tight by loading up the fork.

Using an impact wrench to loosen, re-tighten, or both? Sorry...having a hard time understanding this part of the fork looking at the Zoch manual. Is the 'special tooling R5081AA' needed to hold the damper tube in place? My mission is to get the base valve cleaned up and re-tightened. Then go up...

HELP!! I decided to loosen(crack)the base valve nuts before I took my forks off. The bike was on the stand with the fork legs extended all the way....wheel not touching the ground. This was fairly easy with a 21mm socket. Immediately after doing this, I tried to tighten the nut back up a bit and...

HELP!! I decided to loosen(crack)the base valve nuts before I took my forks off. The bike was on the stand with the fork legs extended all the way....wheel not touching the ground. This was fairly easy with a 21mm socket. Immediately after doing this, I tried to tighten the nut back up a bit and...

Thx GMP! I can't answer your last question. I'm just doing a fluid replacement and want to make sure to get the fork as clean as possible. From other threads it sounds like gunk gets trapped down there and doing the std drain will not get this stuff out. Too broke to send'em in to Les right now...

Why the need of an air gun to loosen and pull the base valve? I'm getting ready to do a fluid change but I'm thinking I may want to pull the base valve and make sure it's not gummed up with broken down fluid gunk. I've never done a complete fork teardown and not interested in doing it at this...

Anyone else care to chime in? Read the original post. Need opinions about the FMF Gnarly 07/08 model