Recent content by Rabbitist

Can anyone think why my crank would have a tight spot?

Nice bit of kit! I now have tge crank back in but it seems to have a right spot when the pin is at bottom dead centre???

thanks the crank is from an old engine with the counterbalance shaft that runs through the casing so hopefully any vibration will be dealt with that way..

thanks guys found a great bit of kit on one of our longbed mullers that is used for setting the reamers on rotors a little 20" centres with two micron clocks attached.. after banging it about a bit more i have managed to get it within .03mm (30 microns) on the journals .. the shafts that run the...

thanks neil our lathe here hasnt got a centre for the headstock is it possibe to do it in soft jaws?

ok guys the crank is pressed back together and these measurements were taken using a surface table precision magnetic vee's and .0001" clocks i have knocked the crank fairly true here are the videos of both trueness and swash please watch these and tell me if this is acceptable??? the factory...

Yh the big end widths are identical plus or minus a tho.. looks like im guna have to use the old washers.. There is a bit of copper showing through on the old washers but should be fine hey..?

hey ive got a cr 250 mitaka 81-01 the only thing is the white metal washers are 1mm thick and the ones ive taken out are 1.5mm thick ..???

Does anyone know if you can buy a full bottom end bearing kit? For an ec 250

Thanks glenn very much appreciated! just prices a con rods kit up at 51 quid delivered so thats on order I'll let you know how I get on..

I'm located in lincoln mate. The dowels are simply to get the crank roughly lined up before knocking true

Mine were the same way gas gas uk reccomend however I can't see it mattering too much.. Some say the other way as the force is sucking rather than blowing but in reality I can't see it matters to much just as long as theres a seal I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

hey so ive just pressed the crank pin out from my crank after a big end bearing failure (part of the needle roller cage made a key way in my piston). anyway im after the distance between the two sides of the cranks so i can use slip gauges when pressing the new pin in.. failing that im after the...

or is it better done in vees?

thanks guys all this info is very much appreciated! am i right in thinking that if i press the pin on the crank somewhere near i can then bore out and hold it in soft jaws in a lathe and tap it true with a dti on the bearing journal and a hyde mallet?