05' EC300 Reeds?
- Thread starter gasIdaho
- Start date
iancp5
New member
I used Boyesen dual stage on my 03 but worth inspecting first before changing. I changed mine as they weren't quite sitting flat but I didn't notice much difference. Not sure what the 05 uses as standard - I think they went to V-Force cages at some point.
The LTR PV cover works well but you don't need it on the 300. I tried one and what with the Gnarly pipe I was running at the time I had too much bottom end response! Great for trail riding but was tiring to race. The 200 guys love em for any use. But your mileage may vary as we all ride different terrains with different ability.
These bikes can be a little troublesome to jet because it appears there isn't just one solution you can copy and expect to work. Not sure why, maybe due to wear, but you have to jet individually to get the best. At low altitude, temperate climate, it appears the most common setup is either the LTR needle or N1EF on the 2nd notch and 178 main. But as for pilot pick a number between 35 and 48!!!!!!
The guy I bought it from had the LTR kit and carb slide work done at a local shop dealing with Husky's and GG's so I suspect it's spot on. I'm coming from a KLX300 so this bike (speed,power,etc) is a whole new experience for me. As far as I can tell the bike runs great.
It has 1500mi on it so I'm wondering what kind of stuff I'll have to start replacing in the near future??
It currently has stock front/rear sprockets which are close to being done. Changing the rear to a 50 or 51 will likely give me the desired results in lugging steeper hills at a more constant rate in gears other than 1st. With the current set-up, I have to charge the steep ones a bit more. I have the FMF Fatty Pipe...sounds like the Gnarly is more suited to low end? The PV thing sounded interesting but I likely have more power already than I really need. thx
It has 1500mi on it so I'm wondering what kind of stuff I'll have to start replacing in the near future??
It currently has stock front/rear sprockets which are close to being done. Changing the rear to a 50 or 51 will likely give me the desired results in lugging steeper hills at a more constant rate in gears other than 1st. With the current set-up, I have to charge the steep ones a bit more. I have the FMF Fatty Pipe...sounds like the Gnarly is more suited to low end? The PV thing sounded interesting but I likely have more power already than I really need. thx
Sprockets - I prefer a 50 rear tooth as well, but this is with a doma pipe (broader powerband).
What else will break at 1500 miles? Not much - these things are pretty durable... On second thought - hopefully someone has put a metal screw, etc in the contact point (where aluminum meets the knuckle) on your kickstarter - otherwise, it can get pretty "floppy".
The PV cover increases volume of exhaust when the power valve is in the low rpm position. Think of it as giving yourself a gnarley pipe at low rpms without affecting anything at higher rpms (when the pv is in high rpm position). Given this, it will be more notice-able using a pipe with less bottom end to start out with (e.g. has more affect on doma, messico, gasgas, and fatty pipes over the gnarley). It improves throttle response and pull off the bottom end.
As far as jetting goes - given the same bike and rider - there are multiple ways to "skin a cat". I think Ian is missing something - it is that you can choose to use a richer needle (and maybe slide) and a leaner pilot, like a 38 (typical of stock gasgas jetting) Or you can use a leaner needle (and maybe slide) along with a richer pilot (like a 45). Both, LTR (for gasgas)and JD jetting (for ktm) use the latter method.
On edit - one advantage of going leaner on the needle and richer on the pilot (with proper idle and airscrew adjustments) is that you get greater sensitivity on adjustment of the pilot circuit. E.g. the air screw has greater effect and it is easier to dial in the jetting right off the bottom with quarter or a half a turn on the airscrew, etc.
jeff
What else will break at 1500 miles? Not much - these things are pretty durable... On second thought - hopefully someone has put a metal screw, etc in the contact point (where aluminum meets the knuckle) on your kickstarter - otherwise, it can get pretty "floppy".
The PV cover increases volume of exhaust when the power valve is in the low rpm position. Think of it as giving yourself a gnarley pipe at low rpms without affecting anything at higher rpms (when the pv is in high rpm position). Given this, it will be more notice-able using a pipe with less bottom end to start out with (e.g. has more affect on doma, messico, gasgas, and fatty pipes over the gnarley). It improves throttle response and pull off the bottom end.
As far as jetting goes - given the same bike and rider - there are multiple ways to "skin a cat". I think Ian is missing something - it is that you can choose to use a richer needle (and maybe slide) and a leaner pilot, like a 38 (typical of stock gasgas jetting) Or you can use a leaner needle (and maybe slide) along with a richer pilot (like a 45). Both, LTR (for gasgas)and JD jetting (for ktm) use the latter method.
On edit - one advantage of going leaner on the needle and richer on the pilot (with proper idle and airscrew adjustments) is that you get greater sensitivity on adjustment of the pilot circuit. E.g. the air screw has greater effect and it is easier to dial in the jetting right off the bottom with quarter or a half a turn on the airscrew, etc.
jeff
Last edited:
iancp5
New member
I dunno Jeff I have played with jetting quite a bit since I've had the bike. Followed other's advice and no matter what notch I stick either the LTR or F needle it will not run clean off the bottom with a pilot bigger than a 40. Are you talking of using a leaner needle or just using them on the 1st notch? Now I know for many here they can get a solution with a much larger pilot but I can't with the needles mentioned. In fact I have just ordered a 35 pilot to try as I still feel it's too rich off the bottom - I mean real bottom like around 1/16 throttle opening. That area is quite important in the UK with tight woods and slippery mud conditions.
If I ever get the chance I will hand the bike to a professional and see how he jets it. I don't mean a run of the mill dealer though as I doubt they'll get any better but if I ever come across a 2 stroke factory race team mechanic. You know the sort of guy that opens a suitcase of needles, jets and slides and takes all day with you at an enduro track.
Not sure I could afford it though!
CACTUSREID
New member
Ian: I don't think you are doing anything wrong,your just responding to what your bike is telling you- that it's way to rich on the bottom end!! jet your motor to what it likes/runs well with- not what "THEY" say you should use.
I don't think your original question ever got answered - I think the "best reed" depends on what you want as far as power delivery...
You didn't say what year bike you have - provided you have the boyesen rad valve reed cage (pre-06) - then you have two choices of boyesen made reed available.
1. Power Reed - this comes stock with the bike and is a fiberglass dual stage reed.
2. Pro-Series Reed - this is similar in design to the stock reed - but the low rpm reed is made using carbon fiber.
In general #1 will provide you with a smoother and softer throttle response down low, while #2 will give you more snap off the bottom to mid.
At 1500 miles, if the bike is running fine I wouldn't worry about it til your next service. If it's not running cleanly - I would check them for fraying/warping, etc.
jeff
p.s. As far as jetting discussion go - notice that I am not telling anyone to do anything - I am just passing along what I know to try to try increase the level of understanding. I have found that discussing jetting or which chain lube to use about as productive as discussing politics in a bar. After steering Cactusreid in the wrong direction - my jetting recommendation license has been revoked! ;-)
I'm using the Pro-Series now.
They have their good points. The bottom end is stronger (sometimes on a cold-start priming-kick it starts and the engine is almost unstallable), but not necessarily snappier. My 300 revs much more freely on top. Overall each gear goes a lot further.
The bad points. Toss out your LTR, or stock for that matter, needle and start over - pilot and main too. Get ready for re-jetting as this set up is more sensitive to air density changes than the stock reeds.
I'll go back to stock when the Pro Series wear out.
