14 tooth front sprocket

sierrarider

sierrarider

New member
I heard it is a difficult fit to get a 14 tooth front sprocket on my bike, is that true? What do I need to do? I also have the LTR case saver. The 13 tooth cs sprocket is just too low for me. I have a new 49 tooth Ironman on the back and would prefer not to shell out $100 to get the right ratio.
 
rpduc wrote:
"Sounds a bit sketchy to me..."
-------------------
Sketchy it may be, but, here is a 14 tooth Iron Man sprocket
on a 1998 EC250SM
EC250SM-10.jpg

It is a tight fit for sure. Look at the area of the swing arm and
the plastic slider...... I removed the swing arm bolt and pulled
the swing arm back to get it to fit in there.
I also had to grind, by my guestimation, about .030" (less than 1mm)
from the master cylinder.
As you can tell. I am using the stock guard. I did not try and compare
the LTR guard that is on my EC300 to see if it would fit without
modification.
So.. proof, it can be done.
Jeff

??? WTF. Is that a piece of gasket material broken away at the
stator housing??? I did not notice that till just now. dang.....
 
I don't think I want to be removing that much material. I will buy an Ironman 45 or 46 tooth rear sprocket. Too bad it's such a tight fit to put on a 14 like I'm able to on my KTM. I feel first gear is just too low for open desert. Second gear feels like a granny gear to me. A little extra speed in sixth would be a welcome change.
 
Didn't mean to criticize. :D

I commend you for making it work how YOU want it to.

(and being a guinea pig)
 
No offence taken. :) It's all good humor.
------------
rpduc wrote:
Didn't mean to criticize. :D
-----------
Here is another (crappy) angle. Actually I was trying
to get a picture of the kickstand "auto-retract" fixit
solution in action.
EC250SM-16.jpg

Burned up a perfectly good drill bit trying to enlarge that hole
in the chain link. Ended up finishing it with a Dremel and a tappered
grinding stone.
-----------
So far. I am fairly happy with the gearing change. I am now
running a 14/47. It did not make near as big a difference as
I thought it would. I was trying to get a smooth cruise speed
of around 55MPH to 60MPH. Right in that sweet spot before
the power valve starts it's magic and the slide wants to be
OPENED up. As it is. 47-52MPH is the smooth spot. Above that
the motor wants to transition out of relax mode and start the game!
I can't wait to get it up to the twistys some weekend and see how
it likes to gobble up some asphalt.
Jeff
 
slocal, Thanks for the photo. I'll be adding a 14 tooth soon.
I'd asked for a photo in one of the other posts. I'd rather go bigger on the front, than smaller in the rear. I'd like to keep the chain off the swing arm chain guard as much as possible.
I have a 04 300 with the Euro ignition, stock gearing, 13/48?, LTR pv cover, RB head and carb mod. I can curse and hold steady throttle at 45-50 mph in 6th, around 5500rpm(I have a Vapor) without lugging or hitting the power. It's a great trail bike. If I roll the throttle on it will accelerate.


It will also lug in 1st gear(1200rpm)without any throttle on flat ground.
Just to elaberate(sp) on the carb mod, I never touched the jetting or needle from RB, perfect out of the box, perfect plug color, low RPM, high RPM, and everything in between.
 
I'm still running the 36 on my rear and the chain is always on the chain guard but so far no exaggerated wear on the guard. Guards are cheap anyway.

For my back road use, I find myself in the 40-80 mph range most of the time. So this gearing (13-36) is about perfect. I have gotten my 14 in but with the 36 on the rear, I think it might be too much gear. My next change will be to 14-38. I'm running 16-38 on my DRZsm but since I don't push the DRZ as hard around corners as the GG that gearing works just great. The DRZ get 55-60 mpg and with the 4 gal tank, it has a fillup range of over 200 miles compared to the 80 mile range of the GG.

Re. Jeff's problem with the kickstand mod, earlier I had intended to mention that Matt' s mod on the kickstand forgot to mention that before you drill out a chain link you need to hit it with a gas welder to remove the temper or you will ruin a drill bit at best and even worse, ruin a bit and still not drill all the way thru the link.

Tony
 
Cal_Tony:
"before you drill out a chain link you need to hit it with a gas welder"
Now he tells me...doh!
I can try that when I make the mod to my EC300.
I assume you heat it to cherry red and let it cool slowly. Do not quench in
water or oil. eh?
Jeff
 
That's right.

Grab one end with vice grips or put in a vice and heat the other to just before it begins to melt. Let air dry.

Tony
 
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