18 EC300 E-Start shaft removal?
- Thread starter Demi
- Start date
farmerj
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Heat the Stator case up with a heat gun real good (in that shaft area). Then tap/hit the cover down on a solid surface. Often the shaft and bearing will "fall out", and you will then see the screw on the end.
More info. here:
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24995
Jeff
PS - Heating should work! - but if it doesn't, let us know. Some have made tools to pull the thing, but if it's really stuck I'd consider what I believe is MotoCenter's method. It sounds invasive, but isn't really that bad. Drill a hole through stator case where the shaft sits, then put a punch through the hole and tap out the shaft. When you're done, put a drop of JB weld in the hole, and you're back in business. Wish I could remember the thread where I saw this done.
More info. here:
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24995
Jeff
PS - Heating should work! - but if it doesn't, let us know. Some have made tools to pull the thing, but if it's really stuck I'd consider what I believe is MotoCenter's method. It sounds invasive, but isn't really that bad. Drill a hole through stator case where the shaft sits, then put a punch through the hole and tap out the shaft. When you're done, put a drop of JB weld in the hole, and you're back in business. Wish I could remember the thread where I saw this done.
thanks Jeff, I will try heat again, saw this method probably in that thread after I posted. It was hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch, maybe a bit more? I actually thought about trying something along those lines of drill and tap, if Motocenter has done it, must work well enough.
I cannot get this removed... tons of heat, even drilled the back for the screw access and tapping didn't remove it either. All of this talk and it being a spare part, still in there. Pretty frustrated by this admittedly. Info and pix are really tough to find and no videos that I have found. Really would like to get this done before I have a meltdown.
Gasser Nate
New member
I would be reluctant to put an unnecessary hole in the cover as I have removed plenty of these with just heat and a dowel puller type tool to grasp the shaft and attach a slide hammer type of tool to. If you already have a hole in the cover why can you not tap it out with a pin punch?
I already drilled it sadly... I don't know why Nate. Put in a vise as well to hold it steady for the punch and hammer. The bolt appears to have a flange, so I don't know if that is holding it up, but if you and others have been able just pull, then I am clearly screwing it up. By most accounts, it appeared easy, so far it has been a real PITA.
Gasser Nate
New member
Post a picture of where you drilled the hole, it should be right in the centre line of where the bolt goes into the shaft to retain the bearing. You did remove the bevel gear held in with a circlip first? (The one the starter motor slides into).
thanks Nate- I did drill center, managed to get the screw out with lots of work, the flange made it a job. I did remove that circlip, but cannot get that bearing out either. Lots of heat, banging it on the workbench, etc. didn't get anywhere. I still clamped the cover in a vise and the shaft wouldn't hardly budge and naturally the gear butted up against the other...with that bracing, the shaft still hasn't popped out. How can it still be stuck?
Gasser Nate
New member
You should have removed the top gear first and leave the screw in the shaft. Once the top gear is out you can tap the whole assembly out in one piece, then once it is out remove the screw and bearing. Take a look at a picture off the parts fiche and you can figure out the order things need to be removed.
thanks Nate...it all makes more sense now that I have it apart. I ended up using a map gas torch to heat the top up hot enough instead of the heat gun, bearing came right out 
too bad I have a cobbed up cover now, pretty annoyed with myself. Knew it was something simple. Hopefully I can make it look good, being that the hole is on the back side, it should be ok. I have several inquiries out there for a new cover however. Need a new 6902Z bearing... once it gets back together, I know the top bearing just needs setting enough for the circlip, then both gears should spin freely right?
Thanks for the support!
too bad I have a cobbed up cover now, pretty annoyed with myself. Knew it was something simple. Hopefully I can make it look good, being that the hole is on the back side, it should be ok. I have several inquiries out there for a new cover however. Need a new 6902Z bearing... once it gets back together, I know the top bearing just needs setting enough for the circlip, then both gears should spin freely right? Thanks for the support!
Gasser Nate
New member
thanks Nate...it all makes more sense now that I have it apart. I ended up using a map gas torch to heat the top up hot enough instead of the heat gun, bearing came right out
Thanks for the support!
Yeah should spin easy as with barely any effort, seat the pinion enough to still have minimal play but no drag.
top bearing first, then pinion? paranoid that the gears won't catch properly... been a fiasco up til now.
farmerj
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Here, p. 4 and 5 in the thread,
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1350119-2019-ec-300-starter-issues/page/4/#comments
Quote:
If you want to check to see if that screw did back off you'd have to drill a hole behind the case. There should be a decent gap of a couple mm between screw and case.
It's easy enough to seal up the hole with jb weld when the case is off the bike. Use painters tape around the hole in the shape you want and you can peel while jb is still wet for a clean look. It's also very difficult to see the jb weld when the case is back on.
The grey on black is the jb weld on my case while on the bike.
Gasser Nate
New member
I will tell you the same thing I used to tell my apprentices... installation is reverse order of removal! But seeing the amount of difficulty you had maybe not!
Put the long shaft with the small bearing and screw (loctited) in first, then tap the pinion with the larger bearing in place carefully checking free play in multiple points until happy. Seat circlip and recheck. Should all spin by finger very easily.
Gasser Nate
New member
All good mate, glad to help a fellow gasser get the starting system like I know it should work. Knock on wood mine has been faultless hot or cold since new and it has about 2500k and 160 hours.
I would definitely think about sealing the whole system up and running it wet with a breather. Plenty of threads on that. Everything spins up easier and is always well lubricated.
