2002 EC300 wiring for lights

[MickIrlEC300]

Finally got the bike back running.

I am now looking to wire in head light and tail light too.

I have a 2k3 stator and 12v AC across the yellow and ground of the stator when idling. This won?t light up a bulb for me.

From what I was reading in the forums people seem to have used a trail tech rectifier to convert to DC voltage ?
If I convert to DC voltage should my bulbs light up then ?
I?m assuming then I need to make sure the voltage is regulated too ? Or is that just for charging a battery ?

If anyone can recommend the best way to get lights running on my bike that would be great. I.e which is the best rectifier/ run a battery etc
I don?t mind if lights flicker I mainly want to be ?road legal? than actually be driving in the dark.

Thanks in advance any advice appreciated.

 

[(F5)]

You will need a rectifier if you want a battery or to connect electronics like a screen or even LED lights.

AC will light a conventional bulb though. You seem to have no power getting through to that point.

A multimeter is a good start. Cheap as you don't need a good one, just don't try it on house electrics. YouTube will teach you how to use it.

Lighting coils (power generation really) are the thick ones on the stator and rarely fail as they are so chunky.

I'd suspect that either the yellow wire is not connected to the coils, or, it is grounded along the way so it isn't getting anywhere.

Edit, sorry reread your post. If you have 12AC you have s meter, sorry. If you blip it it should climb well above 12V.

That should light a bulb. Test bulb on a battery. It's not an LED headlight?

 

[MickIrlEC300]

Yes I have a pretty decent meter that I use for work.
I have 12v AC across the thick yellow wire and ground which is expected.
When I then connect the ground and yellow to the bulb I get nothing.
I can then connect the bulb straight to a small quad battery and it lights up straight away on both low beam and high beam ?. But the AC voltage on the bike will not light the bulb.

Yeah your right rev the engine and it gives way more AC voltage and even with a very high rev I seen 25V.

So really the AC should light my bulb and probably be flickering but still light it ? I have literally measured voltage all the way to the bulb and then as soon as I connect to bulb connector no voltage ?. Possibly not enough power to light the bulb .. I read that the white wire is higher out put so possibly I can draw higher current to even light the bulb

 

[Anders]

you also need a regulator or you will blow the bulb at high revs. The std regulator from that age is a small black box sitting at the ignition coil, just destricting the AC to approx 12V. There is no recitifier on those bikes without a battery.

I have had similar problems like you describe in ild motorcycle. Correct voltage but no current to light up a bulb. Could it be bad (corroded) connections along the way?

Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk

 

[MickIrlEC300]

Standard regulator not on the bike removed by previous owner along with original wiring harness - I have it but it?s in a very bad way.

If I convert AC to DC with trail tech rectifier and also ensure it is regulated to 12v my bulbs should work without a battery ?

I am just trying to figure out the best way to go and if I need a battery I will grab one too and just go with that setup.

Connectors and wiring are all new?. Even connecting the bulb straight into the yellow wire and ground didn?t light it up at all.

I just thought 12v AC should at least light the bulb up even if it does flicker.

 

[(F5)]

Yeah it should, that's how early wiring was configured on small bikes with all the bulbs creating enough load to regulate the voltage to a reasonable level.

So std bulb will be fairly low wattage. You don't have a 55W bulb from a roadbike yeah?

 

[MickIrlEC300]

Yeah I have a standard bulb I think it is 35w / 35w for low and high beam.
I will try go at it again soon and see what I can figure out.

Will also try source a rectifier locally and update here if that works.

 

[MickIrlEC300]

So I have floated the ground in the stator and I now have 12+volt across yellow and new ground wire.
This still would not light up the bulbs.

I then ordered a trail tech reg/rec ( 7004-RR150) 150 watt unit.

Connecting my 12v AC + and - wires to the yellow wires on the reg/rec and the reg/rec is only putting out 0.6/0.9 volts DC ??? Is this correct ?

I was expecting 12v DC to be the output from the reg/rec ?

Or is this 0.9 volts DC just to charge a battery ??

 

[(F5)]

Regulator voltage must be higher than the battery to charge it.

If you put a large capacitor ( say 2200uF) or a battery on it does it read higher? Should get 14+ volts when given a Rev to 3000rpm or so.

 

[Neil E.]

Keep in mind a meter draws very little current to operate. You might have just enough connection to work the meter, but not enough to light a bulb. This usually means a poor connection or multiple poor connections. It is not unheard of to have a break inside a wire that otherwise looks good.

Does the stator look good or is it a rusty mess? Floating the ground does make it a lot simpler as it takes the engine/frame connection away. Did you measure the resistance on the windings? Bad solder joint on the stator?

 

[MickIrlEC300]

Thanks for that guys.

I got onto trail tech too and they said I do need a load ( battery or capacitor) in order for the Reg/ Rec to work as it shunts DC voltage.

Using an old quad battery lying around I got it working and could see the battery slowly charging away while the bike was running with my fluke meter on it.

I am now in search of a battery (roughly 3.7AH similar to trail tech option but small in size to fit in the air box) or a capacitor but I?m unsure of what size capacitor to use.

From reading online I have seen a lot of different figures? trying to source one locally and I am planning to use maybe a 25v 2000-3000uf capacitor and hopefully this will get the lights working for me.

 

[(F5)]

I used to use an ignitech on some of roadrace bikes. I drove it with a CR250 stator grafted on. One bike used a CR rectifier regulator and it had a 25V 2200uf from vague memory. Next one I used a Chinese generic Ali express scooter rectifier and a Capacitor of the same size.
Bigger damps things more as does a battery.
Never had a problem.

 

[MickIrlEC300]

So another update with the Trailtech RR.

I have connected a 50v 3300 uF capacitor into the system.
And with the fluke meter on the system the capacitor is charging up slowly ?. Probably reaches 1v after over a minute maybe 2 minutes.
When connect with the lights connected it immediately drains the capacitor.

I have now decided to just go ahead and find a nice and small battery with roughly 2-4ah and try to mount it somewhere in the air box without affecting any other parts of the bike. Iv seen some security batteries with high AH ratings and small dimensions so this may work for now.
So for now the bike is running good (idle is a bit intermittent) and I will be wiring up lights and just allowing the RR to charge the battery.
I feel the capacitor route will take too much trial and error to see what size capacitor will suit. Maybe the bulb I have is too strong *

 

[(F5)]

Oh dear. That's a problem. I started the racebikes by pushing them a few steps. The capacitor has to charge then the ignition start up then the bike fire up.
So instantaneously.
Your system is not charging properly.