2006 EC200 ignition fault diagnosis

Caravan Monster

Caravan Monster

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2k3 ignition and the plug sparks when the engine is turned. Strange fault cut the last ride short. I'm 90% sure it's an ignition fault - the bike became increasingly hard to start, then would just about run at low rpm whilst cutting in and out every few seconds.

What little I know about ignition is mostly from youtube :rolleyes: Could someone more knowledgeable check my results are in the right ballpark:

Pulse Coil (red-green wires) 97.2 ohms (manual=100 ohms)
Exciter Coil (black/red - red/white) 14.4 ohms (manual=12.7 ohms)
B8EGV (no resistor) spark plug - cap end to tip 0 ohm, cap end to threads 0 ohm (same result when heated)
HT lead and plug cap - visual inspect - insulation in good condition, plug cap to end ht lead= 4.5 k ohms, check continuity whilst flexing ht lead=same result
Coil, centre core to tab= 0 ohm, centre core to ht lead 'screw'= 0 ohm

Under the ignition cover, everything is clean and dry. I pulled the flywheel and stator plate to check, all looking good. The main bearing seal is also clean and dry. Maybe worth checking the carb, reeds and p.v., but would be suprised to find any problems there.

I guess I could double check the continuity of the wires to the cdi (multipin) plug. Other than that, the cdi would need sending away for testing.

Any ideas on anything else to look for?
 
You checks seem OK. If you have good spark while kicking, maybe the fuel system should be inspected for problems.
 
I had a similar problem on my 06 200 a few years ago. Turned out to be a bad ground connection at the ignition coil.
The coil is grounded to the frame via the screws. Remove the coil and make sure you have bare metal where the threaded clip sits on the frame tab. On my frame it was quite rusty.
 
Did you try with a new spark plug? I had exactly the same problem once: spark was there when inspected out in the air but not under compression in the cylinder. New plug and still runs fine.
 
Thanks everyone ! Think I have found the problems - as Anders mentioned, the surfaces where the coil grounds to the frame had got rusty and pigpen was also correct about the coil > ht lead because there was water and dirt in there. It starts easily and revs now and I will test it out in the dirt in the next few days.

I guess the lesson was to pay attention to the small details :D
 
any electronics experts ?

It went bad again. My bike has a separate ignition loom and the Coil (W/Blue), Ground (Blk/W) and Engine Stop (Blk/Y) are routed along the right hand side of the perimeter frame to the coil. The 'wiggle the wires' test seems to cause the ignition to go wrong. Presumably it is the earth or coil wire that is breaking up. I think that as the fit of the fuel tank has got tighter with age, the tank may have crushed the wires against the frame (although there is no obvious damage to the insulation). The previous owner was also a very enthusiastic user of cable ties, which could also have caused damage.

What I would like to do is replace the 3 wires from the cdi plug (the bike fires up first kick when the wires are wiggled right). The cdi is the multipin connector one ME250834007. Does anyone know the specification for the female crimp terminals used in the multipin plug ? I've spent hours searching the web to no avail.
 

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Yes I have it somewhere I think. I bought one of those plugs when I was havn my problems. I'll try to look it up later tonight.

Sent fra min GT-I9295 via Tapatalk
 
Thanks Anders ! Very much appreciated ! I would have taken a very long time to find that information. The depth of knowledge on GasGas Riders is impressive as ever.

Hopefully rewiring will be the solution to this problem.
 
For posterity, the JAE Electronics part numbers for the 2k3 cdi multipin connector on the '06 EC:

CONN SOCKET HOUSING MX23A18SF1
CONN FRONT CAP 18POS SOCKET HSNG MX23A18XF1
CONN DUMMYPIN FOR MX23A SERIES M120-55780
CONN SOCKET 16-22AWG CRIMP MX23A M23S05K351

I have replaced the dubious wires from the cdi to the coil / earth / kill switch and also replaced the ht lead and plug cap. The spark is now noticeably stronger. However, there is still a problem starting from cold. I have found a routine which overcomes this:

fuel on > fill bowl (lectron visual check) > fuel off > choke on > kick until starts > fuel on > choke off

If I don't switch the fuel off, it will not start. If I follow the routine, it starts from cold easily and starts and runs great. I suspect the fuel level creeps up in the lectron bowl if I kick it over many times without start, whether this is enough to flood the engine, not so sure. I did find one report of swarf from the slide / tickover screw finding its way to the float valve. I'm hesitant to attribute blame to the lectron because the bike is old and there could be other problems to be found.

Hope that's the end of this problem, having missed several rides because of it :(
 
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