2006 EC300 - Remove PV shims

[motopsycho87]

1 - do I remove all of the shims for more mid power??

2 - to adjust the free play after, do I use the bolt on the left, or the nut on the right?

 

[(F5)]

Erm, first off take the slack out of the system, see the sticky & you tube clips on how to do this. Any slack will end up with the valve being blown out of the way so get this sorted first. Then do jetting if not already played & see where yer at.

Pull a base gasket out & replace the ring & skim/shape the head.

 

[motopsycho87]

I have good mid range power, just a tiny flat spot just before the PV opens, I have rejetted, there is currently no slack in my power valve operation, though I expect it after I remove the shims from the governor assembly. I am running 1 base gasket (this gave me proper squish clearance), currently have approx 10 hours on wossner piston, running a 40 pilot, 2 turns out on the air screw, N1EG needle 2nd clip from top, and a 178 main jet (contrary to my sig) on the standard slide, i have inspected the reeds they are in good condition, am running a new BR8EG spark plug, my CDI failed so I fitted a RM125 CDI, I have adjusted the stator baseplate to 5 degrees BTDC to suit the RM ignition curve, I have fitted a high output ktm HT coil, I am running 32:1 motul 510 with 5% ZX1 friction reducer added to the oil (not the mix), unfortunately my exhaust baffle tube broke so am currently running a hollow silencer, I will be purchasing either a FMF silencer for ?120 (approx) or a DEP silencer for ?90 (approx) shortly after the festive season, I am wearing black boxer shorts with a single white pinstripe across the elastic and with 3 buttons allowing ease of access to the genitals without removal of aforementioned undergarments, my socks are a mismatched pair, 1 'le coq sportif' and 1 'umbro' though they are both white, i am wearing 'lonsdale' trainers in a UK size 9, my shirt is black... if you require any more information to answer the questions listed below;

1 - do I remove all of the shims for more mid power??

2 - to adjust the free play after, do I use the bolt on the left, or the nut on the right?

please, by any means, ask away...

So question 1, the shims, what results have people had by removing different shims, most posts seems to suggest removal of all the shims, and I have found a post stating that each 0.1mm = 100 revs on the engine, parts '16' are 0.5mm and part '15' is 0.2mm, indicating a 1200rpm earlier opening time, is this too much?

Question 2, do I use nut 3 or bolt 5 to adjust the free play, as there seems to be reports of people doing it on either, obviously it would be preferable to use the bolt as this is a thicker diameter thread than the nut (less chance of breakage), though it appears bolt 5 is situated on splines, thus making adjustment for 0.010" (0.254mm) less accurate?

Another reason I ask is due to this photo existing,

Most people seem to mention adjusting 'free play' on the bell crank, this would be the nut on the other side to what is pointed on this picture.

Also, according to the fiche, the shims should be the other side of the spring, not that it should matter, but why are this guys shims on the other side?

 

[motopsycho87]

I suppose I'll just do it and film it ... or take pictures, 1 or the other...

 

[Eric K]

Removing shims will result in the power valve opening earlier.

A 0.5 mm shim change makes a noticeable difference.

If you are just looking for a slight change remove the 0.2 mm shim.

It is easier to work on when the motorcycle is laying on its side. Parts tend to stay in place.

 

[(F5)]

Just back here. Good details, although slightly disturbing.

So you are trying to tune the bike with an ineffective silencer & a bodged CDI.

I'd have to say you might be pushing it. Some perforated tube & some packing would get you closer to ideal. The ign, well that's harder. You'd expect a big bore to want to throw a heap of advance at lower revs. Just moving the stator 5deg to statically shift the curve, well that's a brave move for higher revs which are likely to be around 16 on both bikes, but now over 20. Asking for a melty piston with a big please and some flowers.

I'd be calling wreckers for a 250/300 cdi before changing anything else.

 

[motopsycho87]

Just back here. Good details, although slightly disturbing.

So you are trying to tune the bike with an ineffective silencer & a bodged CDI.

I'd have to say you might be pushing it. Some perforated tube & some packing would get you closer to ideal. The ign, well that's harder. You'd expect a big bore to want to throw a heap of advance at lower revs. Just moving the stator 5deg to statically shift the curve, well that's a brave move for higher revs which are likely to be around 16 on both bikes, but now over 20. Asking for a melty piston with a big please and some flowers.

I'd be calling wreckers for a 250/300 cdi before changing anything else.

The exhaust is currently straight through, there is very negligible difference in flow compared to a packed exhaust (which is straight through anyway!!!!), all the work is done with the spanny and stinger.

The CDI, you will find that in 2 stroke tuning that quite often tuners fit CDI units from smaller bore bikes for more power at higher rpm (also please note, a 2 stroke is a 2 stroke, just like a 4 stroke is a 4 stroke, ignition curves amongst 2 strokes do not vary wildly at all), the stator is only moved to 5BTDC, not 5 MORE degrees, 5BTDC @ 1000rpm is the standard setting for this CDI, (remember, these 300's are tuned for mid range rpm and softened at the top end to reduce rider fatigue, hence they output the same power as the 250's, but could obviously produce more). Please note this is the same model CDI as the 300, and using the same kokusan ignition, just in a slightly different arrangement (hence 5'BTDC @ 1000rpm). If you look at the parts crossover on the electrex ignition, it is the same http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...rch&PR=-1&TB=A&WD=ec300&PN=C46.html#aC46#aC46

In short, I've done my homework .

What I am experiencing, (and have been experiencing from the start), is in higher gears, shortly before the power valve opens, a slightly flat spot, I have tried the standard needle and N1EG on all clip positions, and 3 pilot jets. The bike is currently running almost perfect except for that flat spot, which remains if the bike is jetted rich or lean.

So, once more, the questions I'm asking are;
Do people normally remove all of the shims, or just one? (I ask this because I have no gas gas dealers close, and it costs 10gbp per clutch cover gasket, I have 2 in my possession, but would prefer to only have to use 1!).

And do you adjust the free play on the splined section on the left of the bell crank, or the m4 nylock nut on the right?

Thanks!

 

[Zman]

While I can not answer your most recent question, I can say that I had a similar flat spot problem with my 2000 XC300 with a big bore kit. I replaced the PV with one from a newer GG ec300 that opens sooner and the flat spot went away. The new gaskets seem to be more forgiving and you should be able to take the cover off and safely reuse it. Good luck!

 

[motopsycho87]

While I can not answer your most recent question, I can say that I had a similar flat spot problem with my 2000 XC300 with a big bore kit. I replaced the PV with one from a newer GG ec300 that opens sooner and the flat spot went away. The new gaskets seem to be more forgiving and you should be able to take the cover off and safely reuse it. Good luck!

Sounds good! The last gasket I took off after a week split, even when I used a veggie based grease on either side!

 

[Zman]

The new gaskets seem to have a metal core with a thin rubber coating and they hold up better than the paper ones.

 

[motopsycho87]

Alas, mine are paper...