2010 EC300 Rear Brake Master

Bradz

New member
Does anyone know what model bike the 2010 uses for the rear brake master cylinder, I am aware the caliper has changed to a Yamaha/Kawasaki pad, I have taken the piston/seal part to an aftermarket parts distributor and they were unable to cross reference it with any of their stock. GG here in NZ tell me I have to purchase a complete assembly at $350, furthermore they dont have it in stock..Any information would be appreciated..
 
Hi Bradz,is there a part failure I should be aware of?Mines had no problems so far.
 
at this stage, i have taken the parts to a seal maker to have custom made, hopefully before the weekend, at a cost of $50. Im hoping its not an everyday occurrence, there is only 40hours on the bike, I lost all braking on my last ride out, tried bleeding them and only dribbles came out the nipple, no significant pressure at all, thus determining a pump problem. I replaced the pads, the caliper moves freely until point of where it should grip the disk, but with no great pressure.
 
IMHO, GG NZ (Triumph) are a disgrace. If they are not prepared to properly support the bikes they import, they shouldn't be selling them.
Did you try Scotties, or kegs outfit (can't remember the name,sorry) in AUS, or Go Fasters?

Is the seal actually visibly damaged? Sounds kind of weird. Not wishing to dis your efforts, but did you bleed the hell out of thing for several evenings in a row? I only ask because what you describe sounds like a normal air bubble kind of problem. How come you replaced the pads at 40 hrs? were they stuffed in that time? that sounds kind of weird too...
 
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Visually the seal didnt have any major marks, however the memory wasnt so great, so thinking if they had become overly soft the pressure may not hold correctly???.
I have back bleed them twice, conventionally a few times, you name it ive tried it, cleaned the caliper which looked good, the pump is the only part in my mind which can be causing the problem of not pressurising as there is no visible fluid leaks. As for the pads, they dont last long in wet pumice dirt..
 
They are a bitch to bleed, I'm willing to bet its fine. Conventional and back bleeding doesn't work well. What works is taping the bleeder nipple threads with teflon tape for a good seal, and applying a hard vacuum on the bleeder with a syringe/tube and rapidly crack it open/closed. Its the only thing that worked for me.
 
Thanks Glenn, your bet paid off!! thread tape and a vacuum bleed, and they have come up better then new!!

The question still begs to be asked though, what model braking system is used on the 2010 bikes..
 
Glad it worked!

I doubt its a special Nissan part, GG is much smaller than the big 4 Japaneese mfg. I have never had to take any Nissan brake master apart.
 
IMHO, GG NZ (Triumph) are a disgrace. If they are not prepared to properly support the bikes they import, they shouldn't be selling them.
Did you try Scotties, or kegs outfit (can't remember the name,sorry) in AUS, or Go Fasters?

Is the seal actually visibly damaged? Sounds kind of weird. Not wishing to dis your efforts, but did you bleed the hell out of thing for several evenings in a row? I only ask because what you describe sounds like a normal air bubble kind of problem. How come you replaced the pads at 40 hrs? were they stuffed in that time? that sounds kind of weird too...

I have heard similar about Triumph.It's hard for a smaller brand to get sales traction without excellent support.Although I did have a claim on a seat rip,where the cover folds under over the plastic edge,it was quite rough & wore through at 12hrs.I got it recovered & they picked up the bill.I think it may have been more the persistence of the local dealer that helped.
As for the pads,grown up bikes (300's) take a bit more stopping than those teenage crutch rockets ;)
 
I used a Suzuki RM250 rear master rebuild kit in my 07, was a perfect fit. I think most, if not all later model Japanese 250 2-strokes used the same Nissin rear master. My 2010 looks identical from the outside, I'd be willing to bet the internals are the same.

Wes.
 
Conventional and back bleeding doesn't work well.
You know why, Glenn.
It sounds strange for me - every former bike works well with this procedure.

I had the same problem with air bubbles.
My solution needs longer but works also.
1. Fit a 20cm long tube at the nipple.
2. I hang up the rear caliper and pump 1/2 h without closing/open the bleeder nipple.
3. Don't forget the new fluid. ;)
I see many air bubbles, then the system was clean.
Now I have only 1 cm play in the lever. :D :D :D
 
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