My 2011 GG EC300 is having some "issues" with the starter.
I read all the incredible information Bobt250 wrote in his post about the starter on the 2011 EC300 he has. I also read all the posts after it. What a LONG read, but great info.
So, I had a few questions . . .
First off, i have taken mine apart and the shimming all seems to be correct. The gears seem to mesh (engage) perfectly (with the bendix cammed out and taped open, then inserted into the case on the engine). There is a little play when rocking the top gear (on the bendix) back and forth. Seems perfect to me since the gears look great inside - no missing teeth or even chipped at all on either the flywheel gear or the bendix bottom end gear. No chipping on the starter worm gear or the larger gear on top of the bedix. So i believe all to be good in that department. I have a fully charged battery as well.
What the starter is doing, is it wont STAY engaged when i hit the button. It engages almost every time, turns the engine a revolution or so, then quickly disengages. Its a pain in the A** to start cold with the Estart, due to it not continuing to crank the engine, but works almost perfectly when warm - fires right up. When cold though, sometimes i have to hit the button 20+ times before it will start. What do i need to do to get this bugger to engage and STAY engaged and keep cranking until the engine starts?
What exactly does the flyweight spring do?
Many talk about stretching it to hold the weights more loosely.
Will that benefit me to do this as well since mine engages great, but just wont STAY engaged and keep cranking?
What is the purpose of the flyweights?
Do they just affect the initial engagement?
If so, how?
Or do they affect the disengagement, to throw out the gears when the engine starts?
I am just trying to understand how this unit operates so i can know how any adjustments i might make will affect it.
Based on my "symptoms", is my Bendix bad?
I see the SMU5011 (Honda part #31209-GE1-714) (Honda code 4223269) is an aftermarket replacement for this starter, if i use the GG top gear and shaft. Do i use the flyweight spring, weights, and end disengagement spring (on the bottom of bendix - above bendix gear that engages the flywheel teeth) from the SMU5011 so all work in harmony on this new bendix unit?
Is the "real" Honda part better than aftermarket?
How does one get that little clip off the shaft easier? It is a REAL Pain to get that little think out of the groove!!. Any tool made for removing this little clip? I have mine back together and will have to remove that one again as well as the clip on the new Honda bendix to swap parts. OUCH!!
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I read all the incredible information Bobt250 wrote in his post about the starter on the 2011 EC300 he has. I also read all the posts after it. What a LONG read, but great info.
So, I had a few questions . . .
First off, i have taken mine apart and the shimming all seems to be correct. The gears seem to mesh (engage) perfectly (with the bendix cammed out and taped open, then inserted into the case on the engine). There is a little play when rocking the top gear (on the bendix) back and forth. Seems perfect to me since the gears look great inside - no missing teeth or even chipped at all on either the flywheel gear or the bendix bottom end gear. No chipping on the starter worm gear or the larger gear on top of the bedix. So i believe all to be good in that department. I have a fully charged battery as well.
What the starter is doing, is it wont STAY engaged when i hit the button. It engages almost every time, turns the engine a revolution or so, then quickly disengages. Its a pain in the A** to start cold with the Estart, due to it not continuing to crank the engine, but works almost perfectly when warm - fires right up. When cold though, sometimes i have to hit the button 20+ times before it will start. What do i need to do to get this bugger to engage and STAY engaged and keep cranking until the engine starts?
What exactly does the flyweight spring do?
Many talk about stretching it to hold the weights more loosely.
Will that benefit me to do this as well since mine engages great, but just wont STAY engaged and keep cranking?
What is the purpose of the flyweights?
Do they just affect the initial engagement?
If so, how?
Or do they affect the disengagement, to throw out the gears when the engine starts?
I am just trying to understand how this unit operates so i can know how any adjustments i might make will affect it.
Based on my "symptoms", is my Bendix bad?
I see the SMU5011 (Honda part #31209-GE1-714) (Honda code 4223269) is an aftermarket replacement for this starter, if i use the GG top gear and shaft. Do i use the flyweight spring, weights, and end disengagement spring (on the bottom of bendix - above bendix gear that engages the flywheel teeth) from the SMU5011 so all work in harmony on this new bendix unit?
Is the "real" Honda part better than aftermarket?
How does one get that little clip off the shaft easier? It is a REAL Pain to get that little think out of the groove!!. Any tool made for removing this little clip? I have mine back together and will have to remove that one again as well as the clip on the new Honda bendix to swap parts. OUCH!!
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!