48mm Marzocchi fork tools

[GMP]

Guys with the new 48mm CC Zokes, what tools are required for complete disassembly and service of the fork? I know the 49mm end cap wrench and 48mm seal driver are obvious, but what about the other cap wrench tool, cartridge/rod holder, etc? Also what KYB springs fit? Thanks.

 

[GMP]

Since I couldn't find one, I made a compression cap tool. Started with a cheap steel KYB cap tool, and turned out the center section on a lathe to form an octagonal ring with a 30mm ID. Welded on a 1" 1/2" drive socket. Cleaned up the welds a bit with a Dremel for a little more clearance for the PFP. Turned out OK, especially considering I have no Tig/Mig and used a stick welder with a 7018 rod.

 

[thumperrider1]

Very Nice! finally started my bike tonight and took a few laps around the yard. Yes, it's stiff as a board, so looking forward to getting 3 hrs on it tomorrow to loosen things up.

 

[twowheels]

Very Nice! finally started my bike tonight and took a few laps around the yard. Yes, it's stiff as a board, so looking forward to getting 3 hrs on it tomorrow to loosen things up.

There's a couple ways to skin this cat - Clay has suggested running one turn IN of PFP and backed out compression, or you could back the PFP all the way out and start with a little firmer compression.

Either way you should decide before you bolt your bars down too solidly - there's precious little room from the bottom of the bar to the top of the fork leg, especially with the bars mounted in the forward position.

 

[wence]

I have lifted my bars and am about to cut down a socket and weld an arm onto it.
All good.
By the way the suspension was setup real weird when I received my bike and it still handled like a dream.
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

Is the top of the PFP knob flush with the fork cap or taller? If taller how much? Could you just get a 22mm six point box wrench on it with a little grinding?

 

[thumperrider1]

With my flexx bars mounted I can't get to anything. Not even the bleeders.

I ran the forks yesterday 1 click in from full out on the compression and the PFD one turn in. The forks felt solid with zero harsh spots. I still have 2-3 inches of travel I'm not getting to use. I'm 150lbs so will have to see if 4.0's or 3.8's are in my future. I figured I would get 8-12 hrs on it first to loosen it up.

 

[GMP]

Got a pic? Perhaps grinding a tool and shimming the bars up just a hair. Also, what thread are the bleed screws?

 

[twowheels]

With my flexx bars mounted I can't get to anything. Not even the bleeders.

With the stock spacers (3mm) under the bar clamp and Flexx bars you have 6mm max to get under the bar and onto the PFP. This is especially an issue if you run the bars in the forward position.

I'm prototyping some tools to get to the PFP and compression adjuster.

 

[GMP]

It would be nice to have a small tool that you could use on the trail for testing changes.

 

[wence]

Pfp is basically flush.
I have an axle spanner combo which I bought from Keg and that 22mm hex end does fit but it only catchs about half of the pfp adjuster and it would eventually wreck the adjuster from slipping. Something like this with an offset will be perfect. As I said before I am going to cut down a socket and weld a handle on the top.
Cheers Mark

 

[thumperrider1]

It would be nice to have a small tool that you could use on the trail for testing changes.

Like a 6mm allen to take the bars off with a 22mm socket welded to one end?

I joke................

 

[celler]

I have used a 22mm craftsman box end (12 point) with a standard offset. Works well on the PFP.Currently running 2 turns in. My bars are raised about 1/4 inch over stock. I also have air bleeders that the wrench can get over.

 

[twowheels]

Like a 6mm allen to take the bars off with a 22mm socket welded to one end?

I joke................

Touche ...

 

[GMP]

I made this PFP tool up today. A cut down 22mm socket and an old Yamaha preload spanner cut down for a handle.

 

[wence]

Nice work mate. I thought you were going to do it with a screwdriver for the handle?
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

I could weld one on, as well as a hex key for the shock rebound. What led me to use this is I could tap the hole, thread in and loctite (or weld) an M6 bolt, and grind it to a short straight blade shape. Now I have a fork comp adjuster tool as well that will fit under the bars. I'll fine tune it whan I get the bike, but I definitely wanted a tool for the trail not only the shop.

 

[thumperrider1]

Let me know if can even get access with flexx bars mounted. Assuming you run those.

 

[GMP]

Flex bars will go on, 10 deg enduro bend. I will have to see what the contact area is like on the knob when I get the bike, and face off the tool a little if possible. Also cut a slot to clear the bleeders. Finally shim the bars up a bit as needed to clear. Actually if the bars clear the bleeders when the knob turns, the tool will be no problem. I do not want to be pulling bars to make adjustments. Do you know what the bleeder screw thread is?

 

[twowheels]

Let me know if can even get access with flexx bars mounted. Assuming you run those.

I've made up some tools to get to the compression adjustment screw (and the shock comp and rebound screws), but with Flexx bars in the forward position and the stock 3mm spacer you've only got about 6mm total clearance height for the tool. At that point the blade of the tool isn't really long enough if you turn the adjuster all the way in - it's best to just make click adjustments from the existing position and not worry about counting out from zero.

You could add additional spacers (the 12 degree Flexx bars have 7mm less rise than the stock Renthal 997 Twinwalls) or if you run the bars in the rearward holes you'll have more room.