About the MArzocchi 48mm shims stack settings

[dsp]

Hi guys. My first post here.

About the Marzocchi 48mm fork.
Have any one of you guys come up with a good setting on the compression stack? Or what the default setting would be, if I should go back to basic?
I would be really grateful.
I bought this bike, a 2012 300 racing model, and the fork had been worked on, by pros. But it is way to harsh for me, and where I ride. I ride woods with a lot of square edge rocks and roots. And the fork just beets me up.

I have now torn the fork apart, and have the midvalve on the table. But honestly I'm not sure on how to set the shims to get it plusher. I do think that it's the high speed that's the problem. On a MX track, it works very well. But in the woods, with the rocks and stuff.. It's terrible.

I have the 4.4 springs and the sag seems right.

There seems not to be any crossover shim in the midvalve compression stack. Should there be one?

Any suggestions would be helpful, and spare me a lot of testing time.

Cheers!
/Daniel

 

[GMP]

Mine works good in rocks, and faster stuff as well. Stock stack with the bleed removed is very close. Actually bleed removed on all ckts., added rebound. Details later, iphone battery about to die.

 

[Vindicator]

I have the full specs of the shim stacks and I have no problem to release it unless Admin or any other objects. This is not intellectual property of any shop, it's simply the standard config of the '11 forks. Would this be OK to post ?

 

[GMP]

OK, back on different device. Yes Vindicator that is fine to post. If its handy go ahead and we will comment on changes. Only rule here is posting specs that you got from a tuner that makes his living at it, especially one of our guys here. Other than that its all good technical discussion.


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[Vindicator]

This is Marzocchi standard , it's not from any tuner. I will also post on the Marzocchi 48 CC post

Compression
2 x 11 x 0,20
18 x 0,15
20 x 0,10
22 x 0,10
24 x 0,10
26 x 0,15
2 x 32 x 0,15
12 x 0,10

Rebound
12 x 0,10
20 x 0,10
18 x 0,10
14 x 0,10

By pass
12 x 0,10
2 x 20 x 0,15
2 x 11 x 0,20
15 x 0,15
16 x 0,15
18 x 0,15
Spring


Compression : 20 out
Rebound : 20 out
Spring : K 0,420
Preeload : 2nd up (0mm.)
PFP : 02 turn in
Spring PFP : K 20
Oil : EBH 16 (7,5wt.)
Oil level : 320cc

 

[dsp]

Great! Thank you Vindicator.

So if I got this right. The bleed shim thats supposed to be removed is the compression 12 x 0,10?

 

[dsp]

So I took the compression stack apart and started to measure the shims.
This is how mine was set up.

pist.
31.8 0,15
31.8 0,15
27 0,15
26 0,15
24 0,1
22 0,1
20 0,1
18 0,1
16 0,1
14 0,1
11 0,2
11 0,2

I have not yet removed the pushrod with the rebound and midvalve from the cartridge. (haven't figured out how to disassemble that yet.. ) But what do you guys say about that setting so far om the compression part?

 

[GMP]

With reference to the stacks provided, not to what you have, remove the 12 mm bleed shims from the comp, mid, and rebound stacks. Move the two 12x.1s you removed from the face of the comp behind the two 36s. This will make a nice two stage stack that works well in the rocks. If your in the woods most of the time run the spring preload as low as you can and the outer chamber oil around 300cc.

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[GMP]

STOP!

If you have never taken a CC fork apart before please study the manual first to avoid damage to parts that are very hard to get at this time. Please read it as well as the threads here. I will be happy to answer questions when you understand the basics.



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[dsp]

STOP!

If you have never taken a CC fork apart before please study the manual first to avoid damage to parts that are very hard to get at this time. Please read it as well as the threads here. I will be happy to answer questions when you understand the basics.



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Thanks for the warning

Yeah I doing a lot of studying. Reading the manual and I think I have read every suspension thread on the internet
So hopfully I wont mess things up.. And I do think I understand the basics

 

[GMP]

Thing with these is there are no parts easy to get. You can get to the rebound piston and reinstall it with no special tools but some care is involved. When the rebound clicker assy and locknut are free from the bottom of the damper rod, clean, tape, and greasing the threads allow it to be pushed up past the seal without damage and removed from the cartridge. Same for reassembly, but retain the rebound piston ring on the piston with an oring and push the assembly into the cartridge with a 10mm "T" handle.


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[dsp]

What is the best way to hold the rebound push rod when removing the rebound clicker assy and locknut, without harm the push rod?

 

[Vindicator]

What is the best way to hold the rebound push rod when removing the rebound clicker assy and locknut, without harm the push rod?

Using soft jaws and a vice ... I had neither and it was a pain to remove it, lot of patience work screwing/unscrewing locknut and rebound clicker .

 

[GMP]

Best is to get the Race Tech damper rod holder for your vise.


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[VilluEST]

With reference to the stacks provided, not to what you have, remove the 12 mm bleed shims from the comp, mid, and rebound stacks. Move the two 12x.1s you removed from the face of the comp behind the two 36s. This will make a nice two stage stack that works well in the rocks. If your in the woods most of the time run the spring preload as low as you can and the outer chamber oil around 300cc.

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Sorry for digging up this old thread, but I'm about to modify the stack during next service to get a bit better feel to the forks (too harsh on rocks at the moment). In "Move the two 12x.1s you removed from the face of the comp behind the two 36s." did you actually mean two 32's? So the comp stack would be:

2 x 11 x 0,20
18 x 0,15
20 x 0,10
22 x 0,10
24 x 0,10
26 x 0,15
2 x 12 x 0,10
2 x 32 x 0,15
(piston)

 

[rvktm]

take a look at my 48 cc revalve post and ics spring change

 

[SS109]

You can also pull up my recently posted stack. My forks are very compliant in rocks without having a mushy feeling.