Precision racing has an antivibration bar mount. Anyone use one? I've had carpet surgery on both hands and the vibration thru the bars wears on me. I almost bought the flexx bars but I'm afraid I'll jack them up with a wipe out then there goes 350 bucks. Thought maybe the bar mounts would last. Other suggestions?
Antivibration bars/stem
- Thread starter daveec250
- Start date
memphis2857
New member
It's pretty hard to tear up flexx bars. Downside is they are heavy. I like the composite bars. There has been some debate around them though. People say they break. I have been using the same set for 2 years and had some pretty hard crashes with no trouble. Both flexx and composite bars make a big difference in the amount of vibration though
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phoenix
New member
I have flexx bars on the quad and have rolled it with no consequences (to the bars. lol). However, I have no interest in putting them on the GG. My husband has a set on his Husaberg and I think they make the front end feel heavy. It could be in my head, though. As for the inserts, I had a set on a supermoto and they may have helped a little.
Here's the Shock and Vibe. http://www.precision-rp.com/shockvibe.htm
Here's the Shock and Vibe. http://www.precision-rp.com/shockvibe.htm
Zman
Platinum Level Site Supporter
http://www.precision-rp.com/shockvibe.htm
To answer your original question, I have not tried them but those Percision mounts look pretty cool. The video did not show much movement of the bars. It is a good idea that they can be adjusted with shims.
To answer your original question, I have not tried them but those Percision mounts look pretty cool. The video did not show much movement of the bars. It is a good idea that they can be adjusted with shims.
memphis2857
New member
Back in the CR500 days before all these fancy handlebars, we would just cram our bars full of silicone. Lol. I'm not so sure it didn't work just as good as flexx bars for cutting down on vibration. Lol
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I own both Flexx bars and the TE composite bars. Ive had some pretty bad get offs and lots of small crashes/dumps and I've never had a problem with the Flexx bars. They are super sturdy. I'd say that if you broke one, that the crash would be bad enough that the bars would be the least of your worries.
I've been running the TE bars for a while now and really like them. I don't notice them move as much as the Flexx bars. I like the bend a lot better. Probably not nearly as sturdy as the Flexx bars but they are a little cheaper and weigh the same as an aluminum bar. I notice less vibration than the Flexx bars, but they lack the adjustability.
I've been running the TE bars for a while now and really like them. I don't notice them move as much as the Flexx bars. I like the bend a lot better. Probably not nearly as sturdy as the Flexx bars but they are a little cheaper and weigh the same as an aluminum bar. I notice less vibration than the Flexx bars, but they lack the adjustability.
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I have a set of TE bars, they are awesome at killing vibrations and trail trash. The first time I rode with them I was joking I couldn't tell if my engine was running except for the noisy power valve. First outing on the trail was literally night and day compared to alloy bars. I could feel the front suspension working, but not to the point that it was distracting. It was just... smooth.
Unfortunately, they are too high and with too much sweep, so they are off the bike right now. But I really like the TE bars and as soon as I put together enough coin to purchase the right sweep and rise, I will have another pair. They are too good to pass up, in my opinion.
Unfortunately, they are too high and with too much sweep, so they are off the bike right now. But I really like the TE bars and as soon as I put together enough coin to purchase the right sweep and rise, I will have another pair. They are too good to pass up, in my opinion.
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I believe they are CR high (equivalent) 2x flex (middle flex). I can check tomorrow for sure, but I'm pretty sure they are CR high-type. Maybe KX high, they seem to remind me of the bars on my first gasser. But tall with sweep, that I know.
memphis2857
New member
gasser
New member
Three options
1) Precision mount - hopefully eliminates vague feeling, easy to twist out of alignment, and expensive rubber shims that wear out quickly which are problems of standard rubber mounts. about $230 (2) Carbon fiber/composite - Twisted Engineering - TE - no more weight or strength than aluminum. about $300. (3) pivot bars - Flexx - Very strong but heavy. cost over $320. I had TE bars that I broke in less than a year and I now run the Flexx bars. I love the feel of both but I actually found that a little flex in the handle bar is what really makes these bars comfortable. There is a diminishing rate of return for additional flex of the bars. All handle bars that don't have a cross brace will have some flex but we often take that out by solid mounting our bark busters. Actually stock GG (Hebo) bars work pretty good if you rubber mount the bark busters. Tap the bar ends so the bark busters will solid mount at the end of the bars and use a longer bolt and jam nut (along with small rubber o-rings) on the inboard end of the bark busters. Mounting the bark busters in this manner will cut down on vibration and reduce shock to your arms - not as much as the other 3 methods but for under $50 it may be enough to make you happy.
1) Precision mount - hopefully eliminates vague feeling, easy to twist out of alignment, and expensive rubber shims that wear out quickly which are problems of standard rubber mounts. about $230 (2) Carbon fiber/composite - Twisted Engineering - TE - no more weight or strength than aluminum. about $300. (3) pivot bars - Flexx - Very strong but heavy. cost over $320. I had TE bars that I broke in less than a year and I now run the Flexx bars. I love the feel of both but I actually found that a little flex in the handle bar is what really makes these bars comfortable. There is a diminishing rate of return for additional flex of the bars. All handle bars that don't have a cross brace will have some flex but we often take that out by solid mounting our bark busters. Actually stock GG (Hebo) bars work pretty good if you rubber mount the bark busters. Tap the bar ends so the bark busters will solid mount at the end of the bars and use a longer bolt and jam nut (along with small rubber o-rings) on the inboard end of the bark busters. Mounting the bark busters in this manner will cut down on vibration and reduce shock to your arms - not as much as the other 3 methods but for under $50 it may be enough to make you happy.memphis2857
New member
I have been running twin wall bars with the cross bar removed. It made a little difference
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Dirt Dud
Platinum Level Site Supporter
When I stated I had them on my 2015 300 I have the Twisted Engineering bars and would not trade them for any other bar .I have the 3x Kevin Windham bend ,my only problem is I have more than 1 bike I ride more than one set of bars is needed .
So do they offer multi discounts ? 
So do they offer multi discounts ? I have the Tag bars that have some "vibration reducing polymer" aka silicone that's dyed red. Can't say I noticed a difference over stock bars, but then again I really don't think my bike vibrates much. I use ProGrips and feel like those do more than anything. Nice thick rubber grips that don't rip up my hands.
I bought the bike thru a beta dealer. One of the service guys owned it and it has a set of beta bars nekken and beta bark busters. Never had nekken. A 4 day trip in Oct and my hands were bugging me. I think I might try filling the bars and ordering some triple density progrips. Also going to rubber mount the bark busters as mentioned above. I ride regularly. Was on my wr426 until the gas gas in july. Thanks to all who offered up suggestions.
