Hey guys. I'm in the process of a total engine rebuild on my 05 ec250. I have it all torn apart and have been able to get numbers from the mains, pv, and trans on the lt side. Havent taken gears out yet to read rt side trans bearings. Where are you guys buying your bearings? Other than the dealer, any good sites in the U.S. that you guys use? Brand preference? It has SKF, KOYO, NSK, and ING bearings in it now.
Bearings Mains/Trans
- Thread starter sam097
- Start date
Zman
Platinum Level Site Supporter
See if you have an inexpensive industrial supply house near you. If not www.grainger.com has some of the bearings and you can usually find some good deals on Ebay.
Thanks for the Grainger tip. I can find a lot of these bearings but not the EXACT bearing in each case. Some of them have seals on both sides, seals on one side, metal guards, etc. All in all the bearing is the same size and clearance spec. it just has seals when it shouldn't be a sealed bearing. Going to continue tearing the trans out...will post up a list when I get eyes on all of them.
Zman
Platinum Level Site Supporter
You can easily remove the rubber and metal seals with a small pick or flat blade screwdriver.
At some point they put sealed crank bearings in the GG engines. I This link covers the sealed crank bearings.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10925&highlight=sealed+crank+bearings
At some point they put sealed crank bearings in the GG engines. I This link covers the sealed crank bearings.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10925&highlight=sealed+crank+bearings
Here is what I have so far:
Left side
Rear trans gear: 6305 C3 SKF Explorer Z
Front trans gear: 6203 C3 SKF Explorer Z
Shift fork tube: INA EEG HK2512
Crank Main: NSK 2062..last digit is hard to read but it looks like a 2.
Right side
Rear trans gear: 6203/C3 SKF Explorer Z
Front trans gear: have to remove for number.
Shift fork tube: Torrington HK3512A
Crank Main: 63/28 C3 KOYO
Powervalve
Large bearing: 6000 Z KOYO
Small bearings: 608 Z KOYO
Governor Bearings: have to remove for number
Water pump
Have to remove for number
Was going to get some heat and see if I could get a few to come out but my workbench needs a good cleaning before I start that process...maybe tomorrow.
Left side
Rear trans gear: 6305 C3 SKF Explorer Z
Front trans gear: 6203 C3 SKF Explorer Z
Shift fork tube: INA EEG HK2512
Crank Main: NSK 2062..last digit is hard to read but it looks like a 2.
Right side
Rear trans gear: 6203/C3 SKF Explorer Z
Front trans gear: have to remove for number.
Shift fork tube: Torrington HK3512A
Crank Main: 63/28 C3 KOYO
Powervalve
Large bearing: 6000 Z KOYO
Small bearings: 608 Z KOYO
Governor Bearings: have to remove for number
Water pump
Have to remove for number
Was going to get some heat and see if I could get a few to come out but my workbench needs a good cleaning before I start that process...maybe tomorrow.
Between Ebay and a local bearing shop I can buy all the bearings and seals to do this job no problem. Ebay has lower prices PROVIDED its free shipping...if not the bearing shop is the way to go. Here is a list of bearings and seals in the bottom end of an 05 ec250.
Left engine case:
Main: NSK 206E
Sprocket/trans gear: 6305-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Fwd trans gear: 6203-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Shifter tube: INA HK2512
Right Case:
Main: 63/28C3 KOYO
Rear Trans: 6203-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Fwd Trans: 6205-RSH/C3
Shifter tube: Torrington HK3512A
Powervalve:
Large Bearing: 6000Z KOYO
Small Bearings: 608Z KOYO
Engine Case Governor: 608-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Clutch Case Governor: 608Z FAG
Water Pump:
Engine Case: 608-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Clutch Case: 6000Z KOYO
Rt Main Seal: TB2J 38X52X7
Lt Main Seal: TCJ 20X35X6/6.5
Sprocket Trans Gear: 30X40X7AS
Shifter: TC 12X22X7
Kick Starter: 20X30X7
Overall this was pretty easy job removing these bearings. I used a small propane torch and a brass drift to pound them out and I didn't have to get it blistering hot. The larger blind hole bearings came out easily with a blind hole puller. There were 3 blind hole bearings that were to small for my puller so I had to improvise. I took an Allen wrench that has the hex ball on the straight end and was able to catch the ball on the bottom of the bearing, pull it to the side to bind it, and tap the 90 degree angle of the allen wrench with a hammer and they came right out. The clutch case powervalve governor is the hardest one to get out. It is almost bottomed out in the hole so theallen wrench wont work. Only thing I had that small with a lip on it was a 16 penny framing nail. The nail head barely fit through the hole. I clamped vise grips on the nail and was able to slide the nail head under the bearing and, with some rigged up wood blocks, I could take the hammer handle and pound down on the vise grips. This took a few tries to get the hang of it and eventually it came out...whew. So to recap this job the only special tool I needed to buy was the flywheel puller. The cases split easily. I pounded around the case with a dead blow several times and gave it a good smack where the cylinder goes in the case and it moved a good 1/16th. A few more smacks and it was about an 1/8th. From there I took some wooden window/door shims and drove them down in the cracks...whala. When I get some bearings I post up how the assembly process goes.
Left engine case:
Main: NSK 206E
Sprocket/trans gear: 6305-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Fwd trans gear: 6203-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Shifter tube: INA HK2512
Right Case:
Main: 63/28C3 KOYO
Rear Trans: 6203-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Fwd Trans: 6205-RSH/C3
Shifter tube: Torrington HK3512A
Powervalve:
Large Bearing: 6000Z KOYO
Small Bearings: 608Z KOYO
Engine Case Governor: 608-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Clutch Case Governor: 608Z FAG
Water Pump:
Engine Case: 608-Z/C3 SKF Explorer
Clutch Case: 6000Z KOYO
Rt Main Seal: TB2J 38X52X7
Lt Main Seal: TCJ 20X35X6/6.5
Sprocket Trans Gear: 30X40X7AS
Shifter: TC 12X22X7
Kick Starter: 20X30X7
Overall this was pretty easy job removing these bearings. I used a small propane torch and a brass drift to pound them out and I didn't have to get it blistering hot. The larger blind hole bearings came out easily with a blind hole puller. There were 3 blind hole bearings that were to small for my puller so I had to improvise. I took an Allen wrench that has the hex ball on the straight end and was able to catch the ball on the bottom of the bearing, pull it to the side to bind it, and tap the 90 degree angle of the allen wrench with a hammer and they came right out. The clutch case powervalve governor is the hardest one to get out. It is almost bottomed out in the hole so theallen wrench wont work. Only thing I had that small with a lip on it was a 16 penny framing nail. The nail head barely fit through the hole. I clamped vise grips on the nail and was able to slide the nail head under the bearing and, with some rigged up wood blocks, I could take the hammer handle and pound down on the vise grips. This took a few tries to get the hang of it and eventually it came out...whew. So to recap this job the only special tool I needed to buy was the flywheel puller. The cases split easily. I pounded around the case with a dead blow several times and gave it a good smack where the cylinder goes in the case and it moved a good 1/16th. A few more smacks and it was about an 1/8th. From there I took some wooden window/door shims and drove them down in the cracks...whala. When I get some bearings I post up how the assembly process goes.
Bearings are in and cases are torqued. I used the oven to heat up the cases and cold soaked the bearings in the freezer for a few days. Almost all of them fell in the hole. A couple took a light smack on the outer race to get seated. The hardest bearing to get in was the left main roller bearing. I had to use a torch on an already hot case to get this one in. All in all it wasn't that hard of a job. Now it has to work and not grenade in the first hour! I have another post up about my crank woes but it may turn out to be nothing. Cylinder is on its way back from a plate job...getting excited.