blowing bulbs

D

dimtsam

Member
Hi
I made a DC convertion on my bike. I put the yellow wire (after the voltage regulator) that comes near the headlight, and the a groung cable to one voltage rectifier (like the photo). Then I connect the DC cables, after the rectifier, to the headlight socket. The measure with my multimeter is from 9 to 12 v. So everything looks normal.But when I connect it to the headlight bulb, after a little riding, the bulb goes off.
Any ideas? Is the problem on my voltage regulator? Why I dont get overvoltage measures to my multimeter?

Thanks a lot
 

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Let's review:
Stator output yellow and chassis ground to the rectifier input.
Rectifier output to the headlight socket.
One wire to the filament terminal, other wire to the bulb shell terminal.
So far so good.

The fly in the ointment might be the stock GG voltage regulator. Let's say the GG stator can put out 60 volts AC when the revs go up. The GG regulator is supposed to clip this at ~13VAC so your bulbs don't burn out.

There have been many postings about stock regulators not performing properly. I would guess your new rectifier is converting to DC OK, but an AC overvoltage would give you a DC overvoltage and burn out the bulbs.

The only solution is to use a regulator/rectifier unit instead of the basic rectifier shown in your picture. It would then protect against overvoltage. You could try adding a zener diode that would block voltage instead but they aren't cheap.
 
Thanks a lot Neil. Any suggestions for regulator/rectifier? I know about the Trailtech. This afternoon I made a test with a chinese reg/rec ( 4 wires) that the 2 wires are the DC and the other two are the yellow and the white cables that comes from stator (2 phase). It didnt worked well. So I dont know if there is an other option except the Trailtech's one.
 
Why change to DC light?

If it's designed and installed to run on AC then why bother going to the trouble to swap it over?

Does it put out higher or more consistent light output by going DC?
 
Zman said:
You have installed a rectifier and depending on your volt meter you may only read 0.707 of the peak voltage. Your actual voltage may be 1.414 x 12= 16.9V.

You can install a regulator https://www.motosport.com/product/?...ce=Bing_PLA&utm_term=4580565444445339&variant[TRH0001]=TRH0001-X001-Y001


or a LED bulb that has a wider range of input voltage.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H6-BA20D-D...=132271559030a39b888fbf8a4111a40b90bd07b5a0ba
Click to expand...

Unfortunatelly the first link is not working (something about GPDR regulations). Is there any alternative?
The second is very usefull. I didnt know that exists that kind of bulbs. But still I got a problem because I want to connect a radiator fan, so need to fix the voltage to be 12-13v maximum
 
Dunno about your model, but my older 2007 has a spare AC output next to the frame near the headstem.

Perhaps use this for the fan and leave the headlight as-is?

Or is that extra spare output in use for something else on your bike?
 
dimtsam said:
Thanks a lot Neil. Any suggestions for regulator/rectifier? I know about the Trailtech. This afternoon I made a test with a chinese reg/rec ( 4 wires) that the 2 wires are the DC and the other two are the yellow and the white cables that comes from stator (2 phase). It didnt worked well. So I dont know if there is an other option except the Trailtech's one.
Click to expand...

The GG stator is single phase AC only. Bottom of the windings is engine/chassis ground. Top of the windings is the white wire for maximum output. The yellow wire is a little ways down the windings, say 90% output. This reduces the output a bit so a basic regulator has a better chance of keeping the voltage stable.

The white wire is used to feed a regulator/rectifier so the voltage is higher to enable battery charging. Using the white plus yellow wire for a rectifer input is useless, there isn't enough energy on that 10% of the windings to do anything.

A rectifier input connection must be either yellow plus ground OR white plus ground. The rectifier output only goes to the device you are powering.
 
Sorry but I think there is a misunderstanding. I m trying to find a way to see if my voltage regulator is faulty even if the multimeter reads between 9-12 volts.
 
I thought maybe you were hooking it up wrong. If you are measuring the DC output from your simple rectifier (using the yellow wire as the AC source) I would expect to get 11-13 volts if the bike's voltage regulator is working. The voltage should not increase when the revs go up. Note that the factory regulator is only connected to the yellow wire. If the voltage climbs above 16 volts, the regulator is not working properly.

Tape a voltmeter to the handlebars and watch the readings as you ride around. Bulbs will burn out if the voltage is too high. Factory regulators are not very reliable.

The alternative is using a TrailTech or similar rectifier/regulator with the white wire as the AC source. This should be more reliable. You would need to measure your isolated DC voltage to confirm that the rectifier/regulator is operating correctly.
 
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