carb tricks again ....

[skid jackson]

I'm running an ltr case guard. this prevents me from rotating the carb to get at the float bowl. My question is ... The case guard covers part of the clutch plunger thing. If I remove the case guard will that loosen the clutch thing and allow the oil to run out?? this was the case on my ktm 200.

 

[eff]

No oil should run out. Did it run out when you put it on????? Didn't on mine and I've had it off a couple of times.

You should be able to rotate the carb with it on there.

 

[mountain thumper]

depends on if you relax pressure on it, mine came loose, and leaked for a bout a week till i figured out it was an oring that was broken, but set in place so it looked ok.

if you take off the stator cover the whole process is much easier too! otherwise you have to wiggle the cs to get it on/off which translates to leaking.

 

[skid jackson]

No oil should run out. Did it run out when you put it on????? Didn't on mine and I've had it off a couple of times.

You should be able to rotate the carb with it on there.

Did it run out when you put it on?????

Can't remember!! Only remember it pissing all over the floor on my ktm


You should be able to rotate the carb with it on there.

Last time I tried ... like a year ago the bowl would hit the end of the case guard ... guess it wouldn't hurt to give it another try.

 

[Loosenut]

I used a dremel on my case saver to allow enough clearance for the carb rotate. However, prior to this, I would remove it. Leaking oil was a non-issue.

 

[skid jackson]

did not go smoothly .....
Had to pull the case guard to install a new counter sprocket ....
mineral fluid everywhere

anyone got any tips for getting the clutch back?? I've bled it but it doesn't feel like its there yet. not seeing any bubbles in the bleed tube. to late to fire it up.

 

[Loosenut]

I recently had and still have issues with my mastercylinder on my 2000 EC300. I learned a trick. You will need a large syringe to back bleed the system. I was able to get an instant firm clutch by removing the snap ring that secures the piston in the MC bore and pulling it out just enough to allow fluid to easily flow. I forced plenty of fluid through to ensure no bubbles and a huge puddle in the pan on the floor. I then pressed the piston into place and installed the snap ring. I closed the bleed valve and I had a firm clutch with no pumping. It's more effort than the nomal methods, but it worked great.