ec 250 float heights?????

T

twibs

New member
hi all,
anyone point me in the right direction with fuel problems on uk ec250. Has been running fine till recently, just coincedence it got little colder and problems started i think.

when going down longish descents or using very little throttle for long periods the plug fouls up ,also had trouble with fuel leaking from bowl overflow when engine off and bike on side stand so guessing these two related to float height ,but it also ran out of fuel in carb during fast road section .
could it be that this too is also float height problem? is it worth fitting new float valve,(number 8 on parts diagram ) and reseting float height to 17mm?? or would 16mm be better?

thanks in advance

also cheers mods for quick posting problem !
 
It might be worthwhile to check the two tabs on the carb body that support the float pivot pin. They can become ovaled and enlarged from vibration making it extremly. difficult to set the float height correctly
 
Last edited:
ok sorted the float height problem out when i had it to bits to clean carb out had forgotten to clip the float valve spring over float tab !!!!

hopefully a quick jetting question, running on the following sizes was wondering if the colder weather could cause problem with plug wetting on lower throttle positions and how to go about sorting it ,or is it just a simple case of adjusting air screw out to lean mixture off? realise most of you guys in usa and our cold aint same as your cold!

38 pilot
180 main
7 slide
n1ef middle clip
 
Hi!

Here in Finland with temps around 0 C this jetting is lean (at least for the 07 EC250 which, as Glenn wrote, it requires much bigger jets than older models). First I went to 45 pilot with air screw at 1-1.5 turns out. Just yesterday moved the needle (N1EF) clip to 4th position from top improving the low-mid response and torque but still I got pinging/detonation/loss of power when I tried to use full power once, with the 180 main jet. Today I will go straight to an 190 and test on the weekend. At least to go rich to get rid off the pinging.
 
If you guys in Europe/UK can get some of the other needles mentioned you should try them. I know Les has sold kits in Europe, contact him for a distributor. The JD Blue is good and the CCK Keihin needle has a good rep as well, about to try that myself in a 250 Husky w/Keihin conversion.
 
Hi!

I think I arrived to a good jetting spec for the 07 EC250 for winter in Finland. I have to add that we add about 1% of ethanol liquid (plus 2% oil...) to help the petrol and the carb boot not to freeze (actually the moisture in the air channel not to become ice... I hope you understand me). For this we use also sleeping bag bases to cover the carb from snow, ice and cold air and to guide warm air from the cylinder to the carb.

Pilot: 45
Air screw 1,5 turns out,
Needle N1EF, clip #4 from top
Slide 7
Main Jet: 190

It's a completely new bike now with torque and power everywhere on the rpm range. The detonation and pinging (what felt like power valve issues...) is gone.

Leon
 
think i may have sorted it,have backed the air screw out alittle more and also blanked off 1/2 the rad as advised and now it seems to go a hell of a lot better also smells like its getting hot,cheers guys
 
Hi!

This jetting now is good from -4(Thursday) to +3 C (today). At least these two temps I have tried with the new jetting. Sea level (+50m max) altitude, and about 10 km away from the sea. It felt a bit better today so an 195 jet for colder than -5 C is good to use. I don't think we will get these temps anymore this year.

Leon
 
Ec250 '08 Jetting

I have a new EC250 and have played with the jetting. I started at the following
set-up:

mj 178
pj 42
needle n1eg#2

In weather around 10 C the bike is very responsive with a slight hesitation from low to mid transition. I bought a R1369D Honda needle (CCK equivalent as Povit has suggested) but I have not tried it out yet since the weather has droped to around freezing and I don't know how much I should increase the main and where to place the clip. I ride enduro races here between sea level to 500 meters. Should I put the richer nief needle and lower the clip to #3 and 182 main?
 
Hi!

I think the ef or eg at #2 is very lean for the temps you describe (I think this is causing the hesitation). Try at #3. Or, try the CCK straight and report the result. For close to 0 C the 07/08 needs the 180 jet.

Leon
 
Cold Weather Jetting

I have tried placing the needle at #3 but the hesitation is greater, that is why I use #2. Maybe I'll put the N1EF needle @#2 and increase the main to 180 if the weather continues this way.

I read in another forum that you were also using #2 N1EF in warmer weather in Finland. Of course the weather in Greece usually is between +7 and 15 C in the winter which is your spring temperatures in Finland, so maybe I'll wait a week or so for the temperature to rise and then try the CCK #3 42pj and 178 main. What do you think?

BTW I have been using DENICOL S2 at 1:50 with super unleaded 98 in all my bikes with no spooge and very low deposits in the piston-powervalves.
 
This setting at #2 was wrong and I was guided there by a restriction in the air filter that the dealer forgot to remove when I bought the bike, even though he adjusted the carb. I placed the needle clip at #3 shortly afterwards I found out that the bike hesitated under load in the mx track. Then it worked great even at temps like 30 C in summer (with 178 main) which correspond to about 35 or more in Greece (I am Greek... Leonidas is my full first name). Try to adjust your carb after you have the needle at #3. Or, use the CCK at the setting it is suggested in the forum. Probably you have to use a smaller pilot and, max, a 178 main especially if you practice higher on the mountains.
 
Also I suggest you contact Fotis Skaris from the 0300 magazine. He raced an EC250 '07 for a year and he is still in the team of the GasGas distributor riding a Husaberg this year. I am sure he will help you out.

Leon
 
Hi Leon

I am glad you are Greek! What are you doing in Finland?

I will put needle G at#3 as you suggest. It is funny but I have talked to Fotis and he used the following settings:

mj 175 (172 for summer)
N1eg needle (He did not remember needle position)
pj 42

Also the Greek distributor suggests the same but I am not sure of the needle position. The standard factory settings when I bought the bike were:

mj 180
NIEF #3
pj 40

The bike had a big hesitation just before the PV was opening so I lowered the needle one click and it ran better but not perfect.

I will play around with the settings as you suggest and come back to you.

Thanks
 
Hi!

I think you got the hesitation because of the 180 jet not because of the needle. I remember when I was trying to figure out the jetting of my previous 07, before I found the restriction, I put an 185 jet and it wouldn't rev out... it would sputter.

If you check your posts the hesitation now moved to low/mid revs after you went too lean on the needle and still you have the 178 main. As Fotis suggested go to an 175 after you put the needle at #3. If the temps continue to be low, stay with the 42 pilot and play with the air screw. It is the hardest to change so leave it last until you fix the other parts.

(I am married and been working here for some years... I don't know when I come back to Greece)

Leon
 
O.K.

I'll raise the needle and lower the main to 175 this weekend since the weather is getting warmer. First I'll try out the CCK needle just to see how it goes.

Do you guys have a quick and easy way of changing main jets without having to take the carb out? The needle is so easy, just rotate the carb, unscrew the top and your done in 10 minutes, but when I tried to rotate carb the other way to get at the bottom 17mm bolt it hits the gas tank. So I had to take the hole carb out. Do you take the fuel tank off first?.

Thanks again
 
Thanks for replying so quickly but I feel a bit stupid to ask you again:

When I take the cap-needle slide out and rotate the carb towards the fuel tank (clockwise) to get at the bottom it hits the fuel tank. That is how I have done it on all my other bikes(KTM and YZ).
Do you rotate it counter-clockwise so you have the carb nearly upsidedown or can I get at the jets from the kickstarter side. I'm sure there must be a simple way.....
 
twibs said:
ok sorted the float height problem out when i had it to bits to clean carb out had forgotten to clip the float valve spring over float tab !!!!
Click to expand...

What float valve spring are you speaking of. I have been having mixture issues and have had my carb apart several times. I did not notice a spring.:eek:
 
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