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2004 to 2006 Models;
A good baseline setting for your Ohlins shock clickers with stock 52 nm spring, stock valving and fresh fluid would be around this range;
Rebound, 14 to 16 clicks out.
Compression, 17 to 19 clicks out.
High speed compression (the 17 mm hex with rubber boot around it) up to late 2005 would be 3.25 to 3.5 turns out. Late 2005 and 2006 has a different HSCD adjuster, 1.5 to 1.75 turns out.
The stock 52 nm spring is ideal for 180 lb. rider, +/- 15 lbs max. Your preferences may dictate a variation from this.
Set sag (you on board) to 105 to 108 mm. Your preferences may dictate a variation from this. (See more notes towards the end of this post)
Spring pre-load (spring free length minus set length) should fall between 10 to 15 mm
This is a good place to start and fine tune from there.
For the 45 mm Marzocchi fork with standard .42 kg/mm spring, stock valving and fresh fluid would fall in this range;
Rebound, 10 clicks out.
Compression, 17 clicks out.
Fluid level 100 to 110 (total range of adjustment is 80 mm to 130 mm)
Stock fluid viscosity is 7.5
Pre-load (spring free length minus set or installed length) 5 to 7 mm.
The stock springs are suited for a 180 lb +/- 15 lbs. rider. Your preferences, ability, load (water, tools, etc.) and riding terrain will vary the rates (both front & rear) and adjustments. These are specs for the 200,250,300 2 strokes.
Chassis adjustments;
The upper fork tube position in the clamps is not a suspension (action) adjustment, it is a chassis adjustment and will determine the steering and higher speed stability.
With the fork caps flush to the upper clamp, you will achieve better straight line stability, slower turning charachteristics. (think of it like a raked out chopper)
To the extreme of say 10 mm of upper fork tube exposed from the upper clamp, you will have sharper steering and less higher speed stability.
The rear sag may be used to fine tune the handling charachteristics as well. With more rear sag, say 115 mm, the rear sits lower and rakes out the front (slower steering, better stability)
With less rear sag, say 95 mm, the rear will ride higher and allow it to steer quicker but will give up stability.
Combine all of this, and throw in the position of the rear axle position in the swingarm and you have allot of variables to fine tune or totally goof up your bike for your specific needs!
A good baseline setting for your Ohlins shock clickers with stock 52 nm spring, stock valving and fresh fluid would be around this range;
Rebound, 14 to 16 clicks out.
Compression, 17 to 19 clicks out.
High speed compression (the 17 mm hex with rubber boot around it) up to late 2005 would be 3.25 to 3.5 turns out. Late 2005 and 2006 has a different HSCD adjuster, 1.5 to 1.75 turns out.
The stock 52 nm spring is ideal for 180 lb. rider, +/- 15 lbs max. Your preferences may dictate a variation from this.
Set sag (you on board) to 105 to 108 mm. Your preferences may dictate a variation from this. (See more notes towards the end of this post)
Spring pre-load (spring free length minus set length) should fall between 10 to 15 mm
This is a good place to start and fine tune from there.
For the 45 mm Marzocchi fork with standard .42 kg/mm spring, stock valving and fresh fluid would fall in this range;
Rebound, 10 clicks out.
Compression, 17 clicks out.
Fluid level 100 to 110 (total range of adjustment is 80 mm to 130 mm)
Stock fluid viscosity is 7.5
Pre-load (spring free length minus set or installed length) 5 to 7 mm.
The stock springs are suited for a 180 lb +/- 15 lbs. rider. Your preferences, ability, load (water, tools, etc.) and riding terrain will vary the rates (both front & rear) and adjustments. These are specs for the 200,250,300 2 strokes.
Chassis adjustments;
The upper fork tube position in the clamps is not a suspension (action) adjustment, it is a chassis adjustment and will determine the steering and higher speed stability.
With the fork caps flush to the upper clamp, you will achieve better straight line stability, slower turning charachteristics. (think of it like a raked out chopper)
To the extreme of say 10 mm of upper fork tube exposed from the upper clamp, you will have sharper steering and less higher speed stability.
The rear sag may be used to fine tune the handling charachteristics as well. With more rear sag, say 115 mm, the rear sits lower and rakes out the front (slower steering, better stability)
With less rear sag, say 95 mm, the rear will ride higher and allow it to steer quicker but will give up stability.
Combine all of this, and throw in the position of the rear axle position in the swingarm and you have allot of variables to fine tune or totally goof up your bike for your specific needs!
