First Ride Impressions 2011 250 Race

singletracker

New member
Pros:
6 gear tranny is on the money
Great Ergo's
Strong motor, but still needs some fine tuning
48 Zokes may be just right
Shock...good
Quick and Easy to change the needle and spark plug

Cons:
Renthal Twinwalls won't work with my EE handgaurds
Sidi Crossfire boots snag on side panels and kickstarter
Difficult to adjust fork compression if handlebars are moved forward
Clutch cable will likely get damaged if running traditional handgaurds
No slack in throttle cable...Zero play when adjusted to the max
Choke on handlebars
The Owner?s Manual is pretty weak

I?ve been on KTM's for a few years now: 1998 200exc, 2003 450exc, 2004 250exc, 2007 250xcw, 2007 250xcf, 2011 350sxf, 2009 250xcw (current). Along the way I also owned the following bikes (not counting a few vintage ones): 1998 WR400F, 2001 RMX 400?, 2008 BETA 400RR. My favorite bikes thus far are my current 2009 250xcw and the 2004 250exc. Both of those bikes had revalved suspension that worked/work great, and were/are very dependable bikes, so I guess most of my comparisons will be in regards to the 2009 250xcw that had $1,200 worth of suspension work and is set up very well.

First of all, the Gas Gas seems to fit my body size like a glove. One of the reasons that I bought this bike without ever riding a GG before is because of the shorter seat height, and all of the comments about it feeling smaller. Even so, I am surprised at how much smaller it feels than my 2009 250xcw. It almost felt like the same difference between the 250xcw and the 350sxf. It just feels right.

Engine: I've just finished breaking the engine in, and I need to play with jetting more before I make a final determination. So far it feels strong, but not quite as strong as my 250xcw with 52T sprocket and SX head. I could really tell it when torqueing it up a hill. The GG seems to come off the pipe easier at low throttle openings, and required more clutching on certain hills. However, I haven't played with the jetting much and I've only rode it in the rain mode so far. I think I will be able to improve it some, but I don't know if it will ever be quite on par with the KTM?? The hills are the only place that I noticed it being weaker, but then again I have been fine tuning the KTM for 2.5 years. Strangely, enough the GG has a racier feel than the KTM, and that was completely unexpected.

Suspension: It may be too early to say since I only have about 3 hours on the bike, but I am really liking the 48 Zokes. I haven't felt the need to change a clicker yet. On the other hand, I've had to slow down the rebound on the shock and back off the compression a little. It's really too early to mess with it too much since it is still getting broken in. I will say that I really like the way the front and rear handle G-outs, and big hits. This may very well be the best stock suspension I've ever had, but I'm not sure that it is on par with my totally reworked 2009 250xcw. Time will tell.

Mishaps: The handlebar mounted choke already caused me problems. The cable must have got caught on something and was stuck open. I didn't realize what was going on until I fouled two plugs. After adjusting the jetting, and having no improvement it dawned on me what happened. I think it's going to have to go!

Well that's enough for now. I can't wait to ride again and make a few more adjustments.

Bottom line is I think I made a good choice buying the Gas Gas, and I think it will be a great bike.
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Your predictions are correct, I've already wrecked a clutch cable with bark busters and now use cycra stealths and bar ends, the cable for the throttle is only just long enough, check out when you go full lock rhs, renthall twin walls are so stiff i would run em without the brace.

If you like the sx style throttle response, go to the trial enduro direct website and buy (for not much plus postage from the uk) the s3 starts head and install the black insert, you won't be disappointed, apart from ohlins fork inserts that you don't need having the cc zokes, the s3 head is the best mod I've done.
 
Good to hear you like the ergos, they are probably the biggest hit or miss with the GG, they can be made to work with bigger riders but if you don't like the general feel, it can't really be fixed. I often ride my dads 09 250xcw and just dont like the feel of the frame compared to the GG.

Bike Bonz will fix the handguard and clutch line issues.

GoFasters sell a longer throttle cable.
 
Yep Yep! Head work is the key to any 2 stroke. My ec300 had a stock squish of 2.8mm. You could drive a bus through it.

You'll also notice that the dual ignition makes a big difference. Particularly bottom-mid area. I find the closer the jetting gets to perfect the more effect the ignition has aswell. You'll be lovin the bike sic in no time!
 
Your predictions are correct, I've already wrecked a clutch cable with bark busters and now use cycra stealths and bar ends, the cable for the throttle is only just long enough, check out when you go full lock rhs, renthall twin walls are so stiff i would run em without the brace.

Ya, my wrists were a little sore after the first ride. At first I thought it was the bar bend, but I've decided the bars are too stiff, so I took the brace off yesterday, but I haven't rode since.

I think I'll be getting the Fastway Fit system since I already have a Scotts S.
 
RBD head work and jetting and it gives up nothing. My '07 with 100 hrs on the top end is still a holeshot machine in the B SSR class.

Longer throttle cable, Bike Bonz mounts, and ditch the cable choke for the old style are my plans when mine arrives.
 
You'll also notice that the dual ignition makes a big difference. Particularly bottom-mid area. I find the closer the jetting gets to perfect the more effect the ignition has aswell. You'll be lovin the bike sic in no time!

That's music to my ears! I'll play around with it on the next ride and give some more updates.
 
Congrats on your new GG.

The fastway system is the way to go in my opinion. Leaves alot of room for your cables to move freely without rubbing.
 
You should jet the bike in the high (sun) mode. Less difference on a 250 than a 300 though.
 
You should jet the bike in the high (sun) mode. Less difference on a 250 than a 300 though.

Thanks for the advice. I'll play with the jetting some more on the next ride. I kind-of had a brain fart when breaking it in....I forgot all about the map switch and just left it where the dealer had it.
 
I have the Fastway Fit I system here - along with the longer clutch hose discussed, and the needle that will make your carburetion better - if you're interested. I have an order in for the carb-body-mounted choke kit that should be here in time for Christmas.

For any handguard mount w Twinwalls you need to put some tubing (that I supply) over the end-of-bar insert.

The new clutch hose has a 90 degree elbow at the MC so you can slide it in somewhat without having the hose foul the bars.

The needle will do wonders, but you should have a look at squish as well. I've sent a couple heads to RB Designs, but also had one customer achieve correct values with base gaskets.
 
twowheels,

Thanks for the offer, but I already ordered the handguards from Hall's. I'm not following you on the tube at the end of bar insert?

What needle are you referring to? I have the NEDW and NECW on order from the local Suzuki dealer.

I've measured what KTM calls the "X" dimension before but it took a special tool to do it accurately. I know the squish has to do with the deck height, but I think there is more to it than that. I'll probably wait until I've played with the jetting some more before I make any other adjustments. Hopefully the jetting and map switch will give me the little extra that I want down low.

Thanks again.
 
Your squish band is the distance between the outer edge of the piston at TDC and the head itself. You want to be somewhere between 1.2mm-1.8mm depending on what characteristics you are looking for. Tighter = snappier stronger power but may require more stable fuel loads. IE Race gas.

Moving the cylinder by a certain amount will then also effect the squish by that same amount so its best to settle on the number of base gaskets you want before machining the head. I personally set the exhaust port flush with the top of the piston at BDC. This gives a mellow bottom end with a strong mid - top.

Then compression ratio has to be set depending on what you want to achieve. I increased compression which then gives some more back to the bottom - mid range.

All this talk makes me wonder if I really want to buy a 2012 and go through it all again :D Ahh of course I do!
 
For a 250, 1 - 1.2 mm is a good target that Ron works with. Compression is adjusted to suit fuel, not squish, but figure 200 PSI max for USA puimp gas. My RBD head 250s came in at 190+ PSI and run great. I now consider this mod a must do, like a suspension revalve and a skid plate. You will gain low end without loosing top, as the burn effieciency is increased.
 
The stock squish band is quite narrow (at least it is on mine). You can judge this by the length of squish on your solder when you check it. I think the big value of machining is changing the angle so the squish band is a closer match to the piston shape. Mine was about 1.5 mm and the compression was 200 psi. Good enough for me.
 
I checked my compression after about on hour of use and it was 191 psi. I'm guessing it wasn't fully broken in yet, so it may go up a little more. According to the numbers you are giving it looks like my compression is close to where it should be. Does this give an indication of what my stock squish is likely to be? Close or not close?
 
All this talk makes me wonder if I really want to buy a 2012 and go through it all again :D Ahh of course I do!

And we want you to! Heck, I bet even the factory wants you to!

Maybe we should take up a collection so that you can get the first 2012 and continue the development process ...
 
I checked my compression after about on hour of use and it was 191 psi. I'm guessing it wasn't fully broken in yet, so it may go up a little more. According to the numbers you are giving it looks like my compression is close to where it should be. Does this give an indication of what my stock squish is likely to be? Close or not close?

That compression is fine. You do need to measure the squish to be sure, but it's probably reasonable. Only you can decide if the bike's power is OK for your style of riding. On a used bike, you never know if someone changed the base gasket thickness.
 
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