Float valve seat removal...?

Davehuge

Davehuge

Member
Hi all

I have a 2004 EC300 witn a PWK38 ASI carb.

1. Can anyone tell me how to remove the float valve seat without damaging it?

2. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the O ring?


I need to remove it and replace the O ring as it's leaking and causing the float bowl to overflow.

Thanks, Dave.
 
You know my brain is not accessing the information on pwk. I know the 28s are just in the body.
Either way check for hairs and crud in the tank. Esp once on reserve. Mate's one emptied in my van. Took months to get rid of the smell even after we ripped carpet out.

A ball bearing dropped down the hole and tapped smartly with a punch can resurface the hole often.
 
Hi F5

The float valve is closing and sealing correctly in the valve seat.

The problem is the fuel still flows around the outside of the valve seat, I'm guessing the O ring has failed, I'm guessing there's an O ring in there?!

Has anyone ever removed the valve seat?

Thanks, Dave.
 
Can you spray it with some lube and then use two small, sharp, flat blade screw drivers on opposing sides to work it up/out by using the carb body as the fulcrum?
 
I believe the seal is on the end of the needle, and the seat in the carb is brass. Check the end of the float needle for wear; also check the string tip at the other end of the needle - if it doesn't have any "spring," then it can't press the rubber seal into the seat.

Last, as above, use a ball bearing to lightly "reshape" the brass seat inside of the carb body, if everything else checks out. However, for cost and hassle, I would probably just buy a new float needle before I start trying to modify anything inside the carb. It's likely less than $10 for a new needle, and with that common of a carb they have to be everywhere. Maybe try Sudco?
 
(F5) said:
Mikuni ones look like this
http://www.frankmxparts.com/WebRoot/StoreNL/Shops/62910900/5702/BB35/B8C0/790E/A57B/C0A8/2AB8/A352/35-float-valve-seat-kit-mikuni-TM-32-34-36-38-carburetor-frank-mxparts-03.jpg

I used to buy spare o-rings as the old ones get flogged out. Still can't quite picture the lager pwk. Have one apart in garage but hangover prevents my will to go look at it.
Click to expand...

Here's the PWK "Float Valve, complete:"
s-l300.jpg


Keihin P/N 1062-814-2100, Sudco order number 018-504

Note the rubber tip which seats against the brass or alloy carb body. The rubber tip can get cut or damaged, or just worn out after time. And the spring tip can wear out or stick, which will allow leaking as well.
 
Ahh yes. That's what they look like. The 28s are direct into ally. That larger ones pressed in brass. Try the ball bearing and new tip needle but also have a real good look in there and back flush so any debris is ejected out the inlet. Hairs are particularly troublesome.
 
Hi F5, completely off topic this...

I see you have a RZ/RGV hybrid, would love to see some photos of it, can you send me some?

I've owned a RD350LC, 2x 350YPVS, an RGV250 and an RG500. I just love 2 strokes!

All the best, Dave.
 
Well looky, the latest Practical Sportsbike magazine has just such an article.
Its working on a Kawi ZRX which has Keihin CV carbs but principle is the same.
Apparently an M7 tap fits nice, screw in a bolt and heatgun the area and yank. Ideally with a slide hammer but shouldn't need one.

Only drama is M7 bolts are hard to come by. However my Marzochi triple clamps had them so borrow one.

The got a replacement from NRP carb parts in UK. You'd have to measure it and request if equivalent available. They measured how far it was pushed in and copied that with the new part.

Also thinking. . . was it leaking around the side? Shouldn't really with an interference fit. Wonder if you could seal that with a suitable wick in Loctite or similar that could cope with the petrol. Not thread lock, they do heaps of other stuff.
 
Isn't that what he was trying to do? I did give solution to try before that method.
Another on they mentioned that I haven't tried is a cotton bud in a battery drill with some metal polish.
 
Well if you really want to fool around, epoxy the valve seat closed (quality epoxy), then warm the carb body. Insert high pressure air at the normal inlet and see if that dislodges the seat.

A better choice would be to get a soldering tip down there and solder up the seat bore. Then have a go with heat and compressed air. Either of these methods might allow you to save the seat and just replace the oring. If you need more force and can adapt a nipple to the normal inlet, a grease gun can provide hydraulic pressure.

With the seat out you can burn off the expoxy or melt the solder.

Something else to try would be soldering a threaded stud to the seat and using a nut to draw the seat out. Or use a long stud and rig it up as a slide hammer.

Never give up! That's how we learn to do stuff.
 
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