Fine print first: This worked on a 2014 EC300R. Australian spec with e-start.
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Background is while the Gas Gas light switch block looks trick and packs a lot of different features into a small ish package there are a few problems with it. The first minor one is it has to be perfectly placed otherwise the clutch lever binds on it, the second is that it sticks out a bit too much so that when you flip/drop your bike onto rocks it tends to smash into itty bitty pieces:
This was my third switch on this bike and at over A$150 a pop I was a bit sick of paying
So I purchased a cheap light switch block of Ebay similar to this one.
Shop around they can be had for as little as $20 delivered.
First thing to do is to cut the wiring loom of the generic switch block to length and work out what each wire is. The switch block should come with instructions telling you which wire is which, if not get out that multi-meter and work it out, then cut the last 4 inches of wiring loom (plug end) off the factory light switch block:
Red - Main 12v power to switch block.
Yellow with green stripe - Main earth to switch block.
White with black stripe - Switched side of E-start switch.
Blue with red stripe - E-start switch. (splices into red wire)
Grey - Switched side of horn.
Yellow with white stripe - Switched side of Kill switch.
Yellow with red stripe - Kill switch. (splices into main earth wire)
Yellow - Power supply to headlight.
Blue - Headlight low beam
White - Headlight high beam
Dark Green - Left indicator
Brown - Right indicator
Strip the wires of the std plug loom and the generic light switch block harness and get ready to solder. If you are doing what I did and wiring in a separate e-start/kill switch strip strip the ends of that too.
The red wire supplies 12v power to the unswitched side (i.e. the switch isn't turned on) for the indicators, horn and e-start.
The yellow with green stripe wire supplies earth to the un-switched side for the kill switch and to the led indicator lights within the switch block.
After twisting the wires together and testing every switch function without blowing a fuse solder the wires together and cover the wiring harness with the insulation tubing/electrical tape whatever. Plug the loom back into the main harness, attach the new switch block to the bars and enjoy.
If you use a KTM e-start switch you the following wires apply:
Black wire - cut it off, this is meant to be earthed to act as an ignition on/off, but Gassers have a key which already does this.
Dark Blue wires - constant earth, spliced into the main earth wire of the switch block loom.
Orange - 12v power. Splices into the red wire of the switch block loom.
White with black stripe - switched earth, splices into yellow with white stripe wire of the switch block loom.
Also, thanks for the tip Simmo, to prevent the kill switch button being a locking on/off switch, you can pull the switch apart and remove the small white locking tab, turning the switch into a momentary on switch, so will only kill the engine whilst the switch is being pushed in.
Enjoy.
.
Background is while the Gas Gas light switch block looks trick and packs a lot of different features into a small ish package there are a few problems with it. The first minor one is it has to be perfectly placed otherwise the clutch lever binds on it, the second is that it sticks out a bit too much so that when you flip/drop your bike onto rocks it tends to smash into itty bitty pieces:
This was my third switch on this bike and at over A$150 a pop I was a bit sick of paying
So I purchased a cheap light switch block of Ebay similar to this one.
Shop around they can be had for as little as $20 delivered.
First thing to do is to cut the wiring loom of the generic switch block to length and work out what each wire is. The switch block should come with instructions telling you which wire is which, if not get out that multi-meter and work it out, then cut the last 4 inches of wiring loom (plug end) off the factory light switch block:
Red - Main 12v power to switch block.
Yellow with green stripe - Main earth to switch block.
White with black stripe - Switched side of E-start switch.
Blue with red stripe - E-start switch. (splices into red wire)
Grey - Switched side of horn.
Yellow with white stripe - Switched side of Kill switch.
Yellow with red stripe - Kill switch. (splices into main earth wire)
Yellow - Power supply to headlight.
Blue - Headlight low beam
White - Headlight high beam
Dark Green - Left indicator
Brown - Right indicator
Strip the wires of the std plug loom and the generic light switch block harness and get ready to solder. If you are doing what I did and wiring in a separate e-start/kill switch strip strip the ends of that too.
The red wire supplies 12v power to the unswitched side (i.e. the switch isn't turned on) for the indicators, horn and e-start.
The yellow with green stripe wire supplies earth to the un-switched side for the kill switch and to the led indicator lights within the switch block.
After twisting the wires together and testing every switch function without blowing a fuse solder the wires together and cover the wiring harness with the insulation tubing/electrical tape whatever. Plug the loom back into the main harness, attach the new switch block to the bars and enjoy.
If you use a KTM e-start switch you the following wires apply:
Black wire - cut it off, this is meant to be earthed to act as an ignition on/off, but Gassers have a key which already does this.
Dark Blue wires - constant earth, spliced into the main earth wire of the switch block loom.
Orange - 12v power. Splices into the red wire of the switch block loom.
White with black stripe - switched earth, splices into yellow with white stripe wire of the switch block loom.
Also, thanks for the tip Simmo, to prevent the kill switch button being a locking on/off switch, you can pull the switch apart and remove the small white locking tab, turning the switch into a momentary on switch, so will only kill the engine whilst the switch is being pushed in.
Enjoy.
