Grip heaters

[Brian VT]

I've got my grips and switch installed. I'm trying to decide where to take the power from and where to ground. I've got the euro bike with the larger stator. I'd rather not give up my headlight.
There's a yellow wire with an appropriate blade clip that goes into a box next to my horn. Can I just plug this into my heater switch instead ? If that won't work, how about tapping into the wires for the little "running light" next to the headlight ? For the ground I'm thinking about drilling into my top triple clamp and running a screw in ?

 

[Kent A]

Brian

If you've still got the Euro EC electrical switches on the bike do like I've done on my bike. Since I don't use the turn signals I've removed the turn signal relay and connected the two relay wires together (the third wire is just a ground wire). This gives you the possibility of connecting the grip heaters to the front turn signal outlets and switch them on and off with the turn signal switch.

I use 20W heaters with a simple Hi/Lo function by running a second circuit through the heaters and a diod. Since the GG bikes run AC the diod only gives you 10W worth of heat when connected. I use the turn signal switch to select between Hi and Lo.

The "large" EC ignition is really only capable of producing 70-75W so saving power for lights is important. The "over the counter" Hi/Lo grip heaters that just use a resistor to produce the Hi/Lo function still uses 20W even at the Lo setting.

Kent

 

[Brian VT]

The "over the counter" Hi/Lo grip heaters that just use a resistor to produce the Hi/Lo function still uses 20W even at the Lo setting.

Those are what I got. My turn signal button broke off a long time ago but I may still use your advice and take my power from there.

 

[fury1]

you can ground them on your triple tree,you should have a tapped out hole for the number plate mount right behind the headlight mask,I used that spot to ground my moose regulator when the stock one blew on my old 200,pretty sure shanes still got it mounted there,my new bike has the same drilled and tapped factory hole which I mounted my ground on

 

[Brian VT]

Thanks for pointing out that tapped hole. I was looking higher so I had missed it.
I ended up trying the horn lead and everything works still since I got a "piggyback" blade connector that accepts both the horn and heater leads.
Though, even with duct tape under the left heater, the throttle is still much warmer. It still beats wearing heavy gloves or staying indoors when it's cold.
Tomorrow looks like a nice day. @ 30 deg. forecasted.
I'm gonna leave work @ noon tomorrow and try 'em out.

 

[fury1]

some guys run a throttle tube on the clutch side for the heaters

 

[Treesmacker]

You can also wrap electrical tape around the clutch side to reduce the heatsink of the bar. Just don't put too many wraps or you will need to run a throttle grip on both sides.
It sure is nice to have heated grips, mine have been on for two years.

 

[Brian VT]

They worked pretty well Thursday, I guess. I didn't notice the heat but my hands weren't cold either. Maybe the horn lead doesn't give as much power as the headlight would ? I don't know anything about electrical. Maybe something's backward. I didn't try the low setting but I followed the directions to a T.
I also wondered if reversing the left wires at the switch would result in high heat on the left with low heat on the right (and vise-versa when the switch is toggled).

Another note: I really like the Spider grips I put on. They are yellow, btw, and my new gear is yellow, so I look pretty gay for matching my bike this year. lol Hopefully I can put together some results to make up for it.

 

[Kent A]

Brian

If you've done everything right and the Voltage regulator is working correctly then 20W will make the grips almost too hot to hold onto. Normally the Lo setting is OK for riding and the Hi for warming up after stopping along the trail. Remember the Diod trick and replace the resistor. Any working diod out, out of a TV or radio, will do the trick.

The best way to get even heat on both sides of the handlebar is to put a plastic pipe on the left side of the bar. I've found that the type of plastic pipe used to run electrical wiring in houses are perfect for the job (see the attached picture). When cold it's to small to fit but when heated up carefully with a heat gun it will slide onto the bar. As soon as i cools it grips. I then cut the excess off and put the heating element on top.

Kent

 

[Brian VT]

The resistor must be in my switch ?

 

[Kent A]

The sticker type grip heaters that are most common usually come with a resistor connected to them to provide the Lo function. It's the square object in the middle of the attached picture "resistor crop". Your's may be different though.

Kent

 

[Brian VT]

This is what I've got, except it came with a rocker switch.
Nothing "inline" like the resistor in your pic.
I'm guessing the low switch just sends juice to a smaller section of element ?

 

[Kent A]

Yes, the resistor discussion does not apply to your heaters. If they are 20W heaters they should get fairly hot in the Hi setting and comfortably warm in the Lo setting.

Kent

 

[bobr]

those look just like the heaters that Moose sells. i checked with the company that makes them. the are 30 Watt.

 

[Ryno]

BrianVT,

What style of grip heaters did you get. I followed the direction on mine and they have the switch backwards, the low is high can't even ride with it in this position because its too hot and high is just right when riding. Worked awesome at the harescramble on sunday. I think mine were Moose? Little round toggle switch. Also heard guys having problems with grounding to the triple tree, inconsistant ground running through the bearing assembley, ground to the frame.

 

[Brian VT]

Thanks Ryno. I was wondering about the ground. I'll maybe try the gas tank bolt ? I'll try the low switch too. They definately haven't gotten "too hot".
They are Moose brand.

 

[bobr]

Aaron did the same thing with his. I'll have to let them know it's wrong in the instructions.