help needed with testing specs

[dANbOT]

2014 xc300 re
Has some strange problems the other day and in the end, got stranded.
First, I tried to start my bike after a break and had no ignition / headlight power and wouldn't start. I went through all the stuff I could check in the bush... grounds, fuse, ignition switch etc.
After an hour of fiddling with it, suddenly I had power and it started. I made it most of the way back to the trucks before it died, this time I had ignition power and headlights but no start. As I was being towed back from there, I tried starting it a few times.... it would fire momentarily for a second and immediately die.
So I need to test and find the problem before I can ever trust my baby again.
Does anyone have some testing specs / diagrams for the coil, stator, VR, ECU?
I'd would greatly appreciate some guidance on this one!

Dan

 

[Neil E.]

Before you worry about the individual components check every single connection point. Make sure they are tight with no corrosion. Make sure you clean the frame ground at the ignition coil. Remove the plug cap from the high tension lead and inspect. Next up is the wires that go past the headstock. They flex with every turn of the bars and can break off or break under the insulation.

 

[shang]

What Neil said.

Also, I found on my '13 bad solder junctions inside the wire harness. I was surprised to see them soldered. In the automotive world wire junctions are crimped, and even then usually just ground junctions. It's best to make runs from connector pin to connector pin. I made a few repairs, but when I have time I plan to strip the whole harness and rebuild it.

 

[pscook]

I have found the ignition key switch to be of questionable quality. I can wiggle the key and have the lights go on and off, bike stalls, etc. I had to zip tie the barrel up into the ignition housing to keep it stable.

See if you can isolate the ignition switch, or at least give it the wiggle test while it's running to replicate the issue.

 

[shang]

I have found the ignition key switch to be of questionable quality. I can wiggle the key and have the lights go on and off, bike stalls, etc. I had to zip tie the barrel up into the ignition housing to keep it stable.

See if you can isolate the ignition switch, or at least give it the wiggle test while it's running to replicate the issue.

I removed the ignition harness. My bike isn't street legal and I don't really need whatever security it my help with. I just cut the plug off and connected the two required wires.

 

[dANbOT]

Before you worry about the individual components check every single connection point. Make sure they are tight with no corrosion. Make sure you clean the frame ground at the ignition coil. Remove the plug cap from the high tension lead and inspect. Next up is the wires that go past the headstock. They flex with every turn of the bars and can break off or break under the insulation.

I have found the ignition key switch to be of questionable quality. I can wiggle the key and have the lights go on and off, bike stalls, etc. I had to zip tie the barrel up into the ignition housing to keep it stable.

See if you can isolate the ignition switch, or at least give it the wiggle test while it's running to replicate the issue.

I removed the ignition harness. My bike isn't street legal and I don't really need whatever security it my help with. I just cut the plug off and connected the two required wires.

Thanks for the early suggestions guys, any help is appreciated!
Before I was even towed home, I checked:
-All electrical connectors tight and corrosion free
-Grounds on coil, and starter cover clean and tight
-Replaced fuse under seat (original was visually fine)
-Pulled ign cover, but couldn't see past the flywheel to see much of the stator
-Removed the plug boot, HT lead looked great, but I trimmed it anyways and re-installed the boot. No change

I should mention, that my key switch failed last year, and had been replaced with a simple toggle switch. The switch functions at this time.

Now that I have the bike home, I have started to dig in.

-I removed the wiring harness, and removed some of the sheathing to inspect. I see no problems other than the wires have broken off my tail light, I think they have been for a while, but I cut and sealed the tail in case something was shorting. There are no visually broken wires anywhere else in the harness, I payed special attention in the steering stem area as suggested.
Now I will be testing for continuity, but feel a little lost without a diagram (so far everything is good, I'm about half way through).

-I plan to test/ isolate the kill switch, I have unplugged the connector on the headlight switch harness but still no start. I'm not sure if having this connector unplugged would prevent ignition somehow, so I will try to connect it with only the kill wires isolated.

I just wanna ride!

 

[Neil E.]

Look through this topic, there might be something in there to help:
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21291

Separate your checking into two parts:
1) only what's needed to make a spark
2) once it sparks, then check for lighting function

 

[dANbOT]

Good news! I found the problem.
Red wire in the ECU connector broken right at the pin. The wire was still in place but came out as I was handling the connector testing.
Source seems to be the ECU rattling around because it's rubber strap had broken.

 

[Neil E.]

Excellent work!

 

[barossi73]

Interesting,i noticed that rubber strap on mine looked perished right from new.iv been checking it periodically as i expect it will let go at some point

 

[dANbOT]

Funny, I didn't even know there was a strap over the ECU until I found it broken yesterday! I had obviously been under the tank several times since I bought the bike, I assumed it was bolted to the frame. I think that strap has been broken for a while.