Husky drive shaft heavy to turn (i love gasgas)

[Grogg88]

Okey Guys, ive posted a lot in the cafehusky forum, but in some way i like this forum better. ( Still have The Ec 300 standing in the garage looking gooood)


The bike is a Husqvarna TE 250 , 2010 with 130 hour on it .

When i was driving two weeks ago i came to a bend, running not so fast at all, 1/2 throttle 2 gear maby, then suddently the engine totaly lockt up on me, had to walk the bike back. I had a quick look at the starter assy in the garage and it all seemed to be ok, So i ript the head and cylinder of but everything was alright there too, also had the clutch plates out. It was the starter gear that had split and lockt the engine.

Yesterday i assembled the bike again and it started fine. BUT i have clutch drag from hell! When i have the bike standing in Neutral and im holding it, it drives away from me, not fast but it runs away.

Then problem nr 2, the drive shaft is heavy too turn, you even feel it when u walk with the bike turned of.

My heart says that this is oil related and should maby go away after i run for real for a while, i went out for an 5 minutes ride yesterday, maby it wasnt enough for the oil to get everywhere . I run specified oil, 10-50w fully synthetic

I have a little bit of a dilemma, The problem could go away if i drive, or this problem was the caus that killed my starter assy, and will kill it again forcing me to pay another 350 euros in parts.

What do you think, should i drive with it, or should i let it stand in the garage for a couple of years?? Maby picking up table tennis instead??

I?m all lost in this, I refuse to tear it down again :-/

 

[pscook]

It appears you have two separate issues. The clutch drag, and the rolling resistance. For the rolling resistance, I would separate the wheel from the equation by removing the chain. If the CS sprocket is hard to turn without the chain, then it is internal. The output (driven) shaft rolls in bearings and is independent of the clutch (drive) shaft. If it resists rotation, then it is probably bearings.

Regarding clutch drag, it could be several things. Notched basket, warped steel plates, or out of adjustment. Lack of oil may be an issue, but I have noticed that oil increases drag, while absence of oil reduces drag (friction between steel and fiber plates).

So, here's where I would start- Adjust the clutch lever so it is too tight (no slack at lever). If you still have dragging issues, then you get to pull it apart and inspect steel and fiber plates. Once you finish your dragging issue test, remove the chain and test the cs. If it is easy to turn, test the wheel. If it is really hard to turn, then you get to split cases and inspect bearings.

Good luck!

 

[Grogg88]

Now i got it! I had the front sprocket taken off, and the axel were still heavy to spin, i added 1 dl oil and it was standing idling for 2 minutes. Then the axel was spinning just as easy as before! Well happy as i was i retightened the sprocket and put the chain back on, then the axle was heavy again. The nut should be tightened with 90 NM, thats much :-S

So, i unscrewed the drive shaft nut just a bit, and it spins easy again. What is this?

On my gasgas there?s only a locking ring, thats nice

 

[gasser]

If your real wheel doesn't bind with the axle nut loose but does with the axle nut tight - you have a wheel spacer problem.

 

[pscook]

It sounds like the sprocket is binding when tightened. 90 NM does seem a lot of torque, are you sure that's accurate? Is there a spacer missing? I would be concerned that a bearing is seized (or galled/damaged) and when you tighten the sprocket it locks up the bearing. I suggest you either find a local professional mechanic to look at it, or split the cases and inspect the trans bearings.

With lack of oil, the first thing to go (usually) is crankshaft bearing surfaces, then transmission bearings, then camshaft (as I have witnessed). My concern would be the crank followed by transmission bearings.

Hope you get it sorted, I had a four stroke engine that I rebuilt three or four times before it finally exploded on me. And here I am now with a reliable two stroke, no issues yet (touch wood).

 

[GasGas]

You could also check to see if the rear chain guide is bent and rubbing the rear sprocket after you tighten the axel.

 

[socalgasgas]

I believe he's referring to the countershaft sprocket not the rear axle and rear sprocket

 

[Grogg88]

I believe he's referring to the countershaft sprocket not the rear axle and rear sprocket

Yes, exactly . Bad english... I ment the counter shaft sprocket! i spoke to a Husky mechanic today and He told me that the problem is probably that the previous owner has tightened the front sprocket with machine, or been driving with the sprocket to loose ( should be tightened witth 100 NM )

What happens is that a "enlargement?!" on the shaft witch is pushing on the inner ring of the bearing brakes loose and the shaft will be able to move and tighten things up.

Askt him for a price to change the axle, hope he answers tomorrow