My problem exactly. I'm not sure of anything with these parts views and, sadly, this is on CPD Direct.Wait a minute. Where is the brake one then?
34 is incomplete but near the left side.
17 has all the right parts but is drawn in the wrong order and is in a dumb place because it's near the left, but just maybe its supposed to be the brake one.
Again, if you tried to put it together like that it won't work. What cretin drew this? and why didn't his supervisor check it?
Brake fluid is compatible with certain rubbers like Nitrile, but not with EPDM etc that are used in mineral oil systems often employed in clutch hydraulics.
I don't want to change to a different clutch master as I just bought new AS3 levers and they're already mounted. Plus, I won't be using it often on this bike as it does have a Rekluse but I do want it to work.You could ditch the AJP and go with a Magura master cylinder.
Honestly, no, I haven't. I don't even know how to check it. What's the procedure for diagnosing it?Have you checked the slave cylinder? Mine needed a rebuild, but that was just two epdm o-rings.
Yes, it's just that piston, but the rest is nice. If the cap says mineral oil then use mineral oil.
Do look inside the bore. I've cleaned brake ones before with 1200 wet and dry. Guess oli ones would be less likely to get corrosion damage.
Lube it before inserting.
Said the actress to the bishop.
The Mineral oil masters are MORE likely to corrode if moisture gets in as water doesn't mix with the mineral oil and pools in the master and causes corrosion. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and water tends to mix with the brake fluid .Its prudent to replace the clutch mineral oil every 6 months