Marzocchi Fork Oil Change

[eff]

OK, I need to change my fork oil. Probably over due, but I don't ride every weekend. I bet I only have about 50 hours on my bike (since I got my trailtech it has only recorded 30 hours of ride time.)

I have the Marzocchi manual and everything seems straight forward, but is there anything I should know or look for before I get started?

Thanks.

I just watched this video and it's made me want to run down to the Sandy Lane!!! http://www.tafsmedia.com/video/2008/crash.html

I don't fall that much drunk. (not riding of course)

 

[Nick]

That guy is fun to watch. He has to be worn out at the end of a day.

 

[Dave]

The 'Zokes are very easy to work on. Follow the manual, but skip section 4.8 (Overhauling and modifying the cartridge and bottom valve setting). Just spray those assemblies with carb cleaner or the like.

 

[GMP]

That may be a real mess @ 50 hrs, especially if its 50 hrs with a ot of down time. In addition to the debris the oil absorbs moisture and breaks down, with a sticky consistancy. Pull the base valves and cartridges and clean everything up good. My brother let one of his Huskys Zokes go too long and we had to pull the valving apart it was so bad. I'd flush the fork with some ATF before pulling the cartridges to get the worst out, helped on the Husky.

 

[eff]

Glenn, why ATF and not some fork oil?

 

[eff]

That leads me to another question. The manual says 7.5wt fork oil. Which do you recommend?

 

[GMP]

Fork oil would be fine, but ATF is cheap and if your going to use a quart for a fill, purge, and dump, why blow $. Its mainly to get all the crap out that settled and stuck in the bottom of the fork. Spectro 125/150 fork fluid after its back together.

It may not be too bad depending on the oil. When you pull the springs, if they have a "sticky" feel to them, you have a job ahead of you. If not, its not too bad. Belray after a season was nasty, really surprised me.

 

[eff]

Thanks Glenn. That will be my project this week. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[GMP]

I did mine last month as part of winter maintanence. I thought about doing a photo shoot. Its just such a messy job I didn't want to handle my nice camera, plus it would just double the time in an unheated garage when it was 10 F outside.

 

[eff]

The 'Zokes are very easy to work on. Follow the manual, but skip section 4.8 (Overhauling and modifying the cartridge and bottom valve setting). Just spray those assemblies with carb cleaner or the like.

Thanks Dave, I now noticed my manual was outdated. The newer one is much nicer.

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Now playing: Van Halen - Ain't Talkin' 'Bout Love
via FoxyTunes

 

[skid jackson]

motorex makes a 7.5 wt oil
might have to call around to find someone that carries it. I changed my oil out after abut 20 to maybe 30 hours .. it was pretty dirty. Gonna pull them apart and try a revalve when I get my drz out of the way umm and my trials bike!!

 

[GMP]

Forget about weights, look at the cts specs @ 40 deg. If you have an oil that works well note its cts, so if you can't get it eaisly you can find something close. I was mixing Honda SS7 and SS8 because it was relatively cheap, available in half liter bottles right in town, and worked very well. No more SS8, so I found the Spectro to be almost the same cts as the average of the SS7 and SS8.

 

[eff]

I just ordered the Spectro. The Spectro site says it's designed to be run in Zokes.

 

[eff]

Job done. The original oil looked great so I just changed it.

 

[GMP]

Did you pull the base valves and cartridges?

If the bike sits for awhile, all the debris settles in the bottom, and will not neccessarily pour out with the old oil, making the oil look clean.

 

[eff]

No I don't have the tool to hold it. They layed on their side for a good two weeks.

 

[eff]

OK. As noted in my last post, I don't have the special tool to hold the valving while loosening/tightening the not on the bottom of the fork.

What are you guys using to do this?

 

[Nick]

Air gun to get it loose. Easy to tighten.

 

[eff]

OK. I guess I need to look into an air gun. I assume a 3/8" drive would be best considering the torque's are relatively low.

 

[GMP]

A 3/8" drive is good and less likely to get you into trouble. Sometimes you need a 1/2" the first time as the valve may be too tight for the 3/8". A cheap 1/2" is OK too as they are a lot less powerful than a good one. Just be careful when tightening, one very short burst with the 3/8" is all thats needed, and it will come apart easy next time.

A six-point socket is mandatory for the aluminum base valve, but an impact socket will not fit in the foot. Thats fine because the torque is low anyway. This may sound a little ghetto, but what I found fits very snug (good) on the base valve hex and works well is a common six-point spark plug socket.