My First Clutch Repair

K

KicksonR66

New member
I'm replacing a EFM auto and going back standard on a '02 300XC.

I've gotten as far as the clutch boss and need to get the clutch boss nut off. Can you tell me the best method for doing this? What is this the torque spec for this nut? (How tight is it?) Should I leave one plate in to help hold the boss in place?

again, I am totally ignorant to all this and am looking at the parts fiche for guidance. I'm positive I'll be asking you for more help.

Thanks in advance, John
 
I use an impact wrench, 3/8" drive pneumatic works fine for that nut. Just hold the basket with a glove hand or rag. Torque spec is 60 Nm. To torque it you will have to jam the primary with something soft like copper. Since I used the same clutch basket, I simply tightened the nut with the impact tool to the same position as it was. The 3/8" drive tool does not have enough torque to get you into trouble here, do not do this with a 1/2" tool. Note: the clutch nut is a clockwise thread, but the crank pinion is a reverse counterclockwise thread.
 
John, I have been stuffing the jug with nylon rope through the sparkplug hole with piston up past the exhaust port. With the head full of rope the crank stops spinning. I then use a stack of old clutch discs and plates clamped tight with opposing vise grips and slide them in the basket and hub and everything is then held nice and snug. Take your time and don't rush and you will do fine. Did you print the manual for the newer bikes, it is quite helpfull.

Paul B
 
Oh Hey, the rope thing reminded me of something. I have a tool that I recieved from Steahly fly wheel that I used to get the flywheel nut off my Husky, should do the same as rope right? It's a plastic spark plug shaped thingy that is a bit longer. I do have a printed manual but not sure how old it is. I have instructions (No parts schematic) to install the EFM so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I think it's the stock inner Hub, it was late when I got to that point last night. No chance of working on it tonight.

A friend said the same as Glen, use a pneumatic for that quick burst to break it free, I'm searching my memory banks for where the crank pinion nut is, will have to look at manual. Where is the link for updated manual again? Don't see it under "Manuals"

Thanks a bunch
 
What size is it?

I found out tonight that I need a bigger socket :( My biggest is 28mm. The manual nor the parts list has the size.

Does anyone know what size the clutch boss nut and the pinion nut is? I'd hate to buy more than I need right now.

Thanks, John
 
pics of basket and hub boss

Finally got a few pics of the basket and hub boss, what do all think? Should I replace?




GasGas001.jpg


GasGas004.jpg


GasGas002.jpg


GasGas010.jpg
 
You already have them off, but what I use to stop is put a plastic toothbrush handle end into the gears, doesn't mar anything. Hey if you could post pics of your pressure plate too that be great. Also if you could, since yours is apart measure the height of the post on the inner basket where the springs bolt on and the depth of the hole on the pressure plate where the springs seat in. I'm taking mine apart to figure out the source of my clutch woes,,
Thanks,
Steve
 
John,

We've been through similar experiences with EFM auto clutches. I swapped my stock clutch for a hand me down EFM clutch after the previous owner noticed some unusual aluminum wear with it. I experienced the same thing but stuck with it. Eventually it trashed the fiber plates and I went back to stock.

Both of ours are from the original EFM concept where he supplied a brand new clutch basket of his manufacture. The problem with mine was that the posts on the back where the rubber cushions mount were machined too long (IMO). That resulted in too much axial and angular compliance, which allowed the whole basket to wobble. The wobble allowed the edge of the pressure plate to contact the clutch cover and slopped the plates around from side to side, which yours has obviously done as well. I would guess that the whole batch of EFM clutch baskets had the same problem. (What he does now is you send in your stock clutch basket and he machines it to accept the EFM pressure plate.)

I ended up using the EFM clutch basket as a normal manual clutch after Garry /EFM machined the cushion posts to the height I wanted and I haven't had any further trouble. Sorry, I don't recall what height it should be. Maybe it'll work fine as a normal clutch the way it is.

The extra shim washers are used in the EFM system to adjust the clearances. Just use only the stock thick washer when you put it back to normal.

Jon
'01 XC300
 
Oh wow, I didn't know that wasn't the stock basket, I knew he would mod the newer stock ones but figured he did that previously as well. I've been talking with Jack (RTT) and will probably send it to him to check and machine the posts if possible. It was rubbing the cover bigtime, when I drained the oil it was like liquid graphite, scared the heck out of me.

So will the basket still function properly with the obvious wear you think? Thats the one (high dollar) i'm worried about. I won't wine too much if everything else needs replacing.

Thanks for the tip!
John
 
John,

I just spoke with Jack this morning. He is familiar with my EFM tale of woe and I even have some of his clutch parts in my bike right now. Great guy and resource to the GG community.

I think you'll be able to reuse your clutch basket although in some ways yours looks worse than mine did. I would definitely try it.

Jon
 
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