New to me 2002 EC250

T

toadl

New member
I have some pics and questions that will I will update as I start to go through this bike. My plan is to get what I can ready before the riding season starts here in the cold north, although setting up the suspension and carb. will be hard since I don't know anything about the bikes history and what's been done. I can check sag. What is recommend for this year? I understand Sag is a little different on a GasGAs.
Here is the bike. It looks to me to have 2003-2006 plastic. There is a small dent in the pipe. Is a pipe guard a good idea? It looks like some people have them and some don't. In Minnesota we have some rocks, but it's not mountain riding.

The fork seals are leaking. What brand of fork seals would be best? They are 43mm WP forks. I thought about ordering KTM seals and bushings if needed. On my Yamaha I've only had luck with the OEM seals.


I was wondering about this steering damper and if it was a good mod on the 02's. I understand that the 02's were more stable that later models. Also I want a different number plate. Any recommendations?


What's going on with the gas tank. It looks like in has two gas tank holes that don't line up. Difficult during a race to fill up fast.


Is this a stock throttle linkage. It feels nice. Also, the brake switch is falling apart. Can I just use a bolt from my Yamaha brake line to replace it. I'm going to bleed the brake line anyways.


This opening in the "airbox" cover, is it because my subframe is bent?


Last question. On a lot of bikes I use the rub marks on the frame to guesstimate how many hours are on the bike. The other side isn't scuffed at all. Is this a lot of scuffing? The finish seems really tough. Also, It has an LT-racing sticker on the frame and I'm wondering if they did any work on the bike. Does LTR put stickers on the frame when they do suspension work?


Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions. I'm new to the world of GasGas and pretty new to offroad riding and last year was my first year to try enduro's and harescrambles. :)
 
I have a 2002 I bought brand new.

Looking at the side panels and clutch cover casting on that bike, I'd say it is a 2003. Read your VIN, write it down and do a search here on this site for VIN to confirm what year. Sag, try 105mm and play around. Again, search for the sag threads here. Before you do that, I'd pull the entire swingarm and linkage off and service it. This is an old bike, could be rusty, dry bearings.

Pipe guards, I like my eline here in Iowa, no more rocks than you. Probably could find a used one on here with a posting.

I've used WP seals from GG, and a buddy has used a kit from Pivot Works, both seemed to last. WD 40 on the sliders after a long sitting is a tip that helps keep seals alive longer. From the pics, I don't think yours are leaking, I'd try dropping the dust seal, cleaning in there, and running a seal saver around the oil seal. You should check your fork oil though, it could be dirty.

I have the same damper on my 2002, it helped at high speeds. Make sure it isn't leaking around the shaft. If so, it needs a new seal and can be sent into WER for service.

Gas tank, that is a byproduct of having a black top molded to a translucent bottom, it hasn't been a problem for me for fills. My 300 never needs fuel in a 2hr HS. Don't worry about it.

Brake will be stronger and firmer if you replace that banjo fitting with one from a Japanese bike. Nissin brakes are pretty good even back then. Your throttle is going to kill you BTW. Run the rubber sleeve up tight against the adjusters, then safety wire it to the rubber Domino cover. Without that, they can and will get pulled by a branch and yank the slide wide open. Do a search on this here too.

Your subframe isn't bent, its just the sloppy fit these side airbox covers had. Seen lots of them with duct tape, and the filter just gets removed from the top.

Wear marks on the nickel plated frame, I can't comment on. In general, that probably isn't a good way to measure hours. Better to pull the ignition cover and check for play up and down, that measures bearing wear. Pull the pipe and look up the exhaust port with a flashlight to check piston wear and cylinder scratches. Finally, do a compression test to check ring wear.

In general, I'd say wear out the search function on this site, you'll be amazed at what you learn.
 
Thanks good information. I'm worrying more about the bike then I'm working on it because I'm in the doghouse for buying it and it's winter.

Glad I can do a HS on one tanks. If it's an 03 that would explain the plastics also. I use the search function and get distracted by all the other posts and forget what I'm looking for.:D

I bought an e-line skid plate on ebay already and will keep my eyes open for the pipe guard.
 
I see you have the 2k2 ignition. Do you have a fw weight?What size if so?
Your bike looks clean. congrats.Nice wheels too.
 
john r b said:
I see you have the 2k2 ignition. Do you have a fw weight?What size if so?
Your bike looks clean. congrats.Nice wheels too.
Click to expand...

You are speaking "GasGas." No Habla GasGas.:confused:
Oh, I get it. FW is flywheel. I have no idea, yet. I plan on taking the front end apart this afternoon and checking steering head bearings, fork oil, and spring weight.
How do you know I have a 2k2 ignitions? Is this good?
 
Hawkeye said:
I have a 2002 I bought brand new.

Looking at the side panels and clutch cover casting on that bike, I'd say it is a 2003. Read your VIN, write it down and do a search here on this site for VIN to confirm what year.
Click to expand...

You Win! I have the owners service manual for a 2002 but the bike is a 2003 according to the VIN Number.

It was 40 degrees today so I thought I'd try to get the bike started. It wasn't easy. After it started, I thought it was funny. The bike was in neutral but with the vibration it was creepy backwards. See scratch in the cement


The fork caps were a little stripped. I wanted to get them off to changed the fork fluid. I don't think the seals are leaking anymore or at least I'll give them a try. But, this is not a good way to take the fork caps off. They were a little tight. I had to use the impact and heat.
 
In reference to the pic of your airbox-door plastic...it would only require a slight tweek of the subframe, to keep that seam from lining up. I have two bikes with the same trap-door style side plastic...mine line up fine. That said, I prefer the one-piece side plastic. Makes keeping water out much easier.
 
toadl said:
You Win! I have the owners service manual for a 2002 but the bike is a 2003 according to the VIN Number.

It was 40 degrees today so I thought I'd try to get the bike started. It wasn't easy. After it started, I thought it was funny. The bike was in neutral but with the vibration it was creepy backwards. See scratch in the cement


The fork caps were a little stripped. I wanted to get them off to changed the fork fluid. I don't think the seals are leaking anymore or at least I'll give them a try. But, this is not a good way to take the fork caps off. They were a little tight. I had to use the impact and heat.
Click to expand...

my 2002 did the exact same thing. If I had a big enough slab it would have been a perfect circle.

Careful using the impact on the caps, I did the same and started to round off the aluminum nut on the top.

Here are some finer points of your bike- The ignition is the 2K2, or "lightweight flywheel." You don't have a lot of power for accessories, so pick your battles if you are going to plate it and need lights. I recommend getting a nice heavy flywheel weight to keep it from stalling in the technical sections. I had a 2002 with no weight and had issues in root fields. I added a decent sized weight and it helped. I then moved up to a 2011 with the 2K3 flywheel, and noticed an immediate difference in the same root fields in that I stalled less with the heavier flywheel. I am a convert for a heavier weight in the technical stuff.

Also, you will want to check squish. RB Designs will help with that. Well worth the ~$100 (after shipping) to help tune the bike and increase the engine potential.

Enjoy the bike, they are great machines when maintained.
 
Congrats on the bike toadl. Is that the one that was "mechanic owned" and only listed for around $995.00 at a dealership in MN?
 
nknudsen said:
Congrats on the bike toadl. Is that the one that was "mechanic owned" and only listed for around $995.00 at a dealership in MN?
Click to expand...

Yes, but mechanic owned usually is not a good thing. Rear tire is on backwards.:confused:

I need to get some 5w fork oil for the works and the WER stabilizer.
 
toadl said:
Yes, but mechanic owned usually is not a good thing. Rear tire is on backwards.:confused:

I need to get some 5w fork oil for the works and the WER stabilizer.
Click to expand...

I guess some people like to mount this tire backwards, helps it shed mud faster.
 
I found a download for the WER steering damper from another post and replace the fluid in the unit. I'm looking forward to trying the bike with and without the stabilizer.:D
I'm going to try and bend the subframe straight. Looking down vertically at the bike you can see it is bent. Open to suggestions on subframe straightening.:confused:
 
toadl said:
I found a download for the WER steering damper from another post and replace the fluid in the unit. I'm looking forward to trying the bike with and without the stabilizer.:D
I'm going to try and bend the subframe straight. Looking down vertically at the bike you can see it is bent. Open to suggestions on subframe straightening.:confused:
Click to expand...
...or you can replaced it with one from a 94-98 KX, if you can't satisfactorily fix it. That is, if you don't source a GG replacement.
 
bowhunter007 said:
...or you can replaced it with one from a 94-98 KX, if you can't satisfactorily fix it. That is, if you don't source a GG replacement.
Click to expand...
I ordered a new used subframe today. No use trying to bend the old one back and knowing its going to be weaker then it was when it bent the first time.
Also ordered new front fork springs, .44KG/MM in place of the old .40KG/MM. Here is a link on how I measured the front forks.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=126561#post126561
The rear shock spring is 5.4KG/MM. I think this will work well for my 190-200 lbs. I mostly ride in the woods. I ride smooth but not fast.


I was able to squeeze an hour in the garage. Is this the voltage regulator or maybe a blinker switch. It's mounted in front of the radiator. Anyways, I removed it along with some other parts of the wiring harness.


When I was removing wires I thought I have everything written in memory. I'm not sure though if this black/white wire from the CDI goes to this Yellow Green wire. The plugs match up???:confused:.


Here is the bike now. Rear linkage is ready to be dismantled and greased. I will also do a leakdown test on the cylinder. Next week will be cold so it might be a while before I get out there again.
 
toadl said:
I was able to squeeze an hour in the garage. Is this the voltage regulator or maybe a blinker switch. It's mounted in front of the radiator. Anyways, I removed it along with some other parts of the wiring harness.
Click to expand...
That is the voltage regulator, a zener diode that clips the voltage to ground (as I understand it) so you get a "max" voltage spike to protect bulbs and anything else on the circuit.
desertgasser300 said:
If you are going to run a light you may want to keep the voltage reg?
Click to expand...
Agreed, if you plan on running anything on the lighting circuit, like a trail tech or lights. if not, then it can go in the spares bin. But just remember to install it if you want to run an accessory.
 
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