No rear brakes --- on a 2013?

[DirtbikeMichigan]

Just got my 250XC as some of you know from my buddy Mark. My first gasser and so far I have more wrench time than riding. When I first rode the bike I complained there was no rear brake. I've replaced the fluid thinking it was boiled. Then I had issues getting it to pump up. Took the master cylinder to my local mechanic and he verified it was good. It gets pressure but has no braking power over 5mph. Bike has 46 hrs on it. Nothing is worn out. I've got no air in the line. Frustrated to say the least. Am I alone?

 

[roverhybrids]

warped rotor?

 

[gasgasman]

Brake pedal bottoming out on the frame?

 

[pscook]

It took me forever to bleed my 2002, don't know why. I'm pretty good at bleeding brakes, this just took a while to get it right. I don't think it's a brand specific problem as the GG uses off the shelf components, so try back-bleeding with a big syringe at the caliper and see how that works.

 

[DirtbikeMichigan]

I have not removed the rotor but initial checks for any movement in the caliper show things to be straight. Brake pedal is adjusted all the way to the point where there is no more left. So I have about an 1-1/2 inches of travel before hitting the frame.

 

[nato]

I had the same thing with my bike. But it was the pedal hitting the frame and you said you had clearance so sorry I haven't seen any other problems like yours. Even though you say you have clearance just check the frame for paint missing. Other than that does it feel like it holds pressure? If so try replacing the pads incase they have oil or chain lube on them sounds stupid but my mate did it somehow.

 

[GasGas]

Try bleeding at the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Very common spot to have some air trapped.

 

[Simmo737]

It took me forever to bleed my 2002, don't know why. I'm pretty good at bleeding brakes, this just took a while to get it right. I don't think it's a brand specific problem as the GG uses off the shelf components, so try back-bleeding with a big syringe at the caliper and see how that works.

Same with me on a 98 rm125 with a total rear rebuild. The only thing old was the caliper body, took a whole bottle of fluid to bleed it, rang a guru and he said not unusual, even worse with some other brands, hence why car mechanics use compressed air driven bleeders cause they are cheaper than fluid.

 

[DirtbikeMichigan]

Thanks for the info. I'm headed to the shop in the morning. The banjo bold bleed sounds like something to try. I would suspect the oil on the pads due to the amount of bleeding I have done thus far but the first ride on this bike gave me the same problem and it was clean. If I get to the bottom of this I will follow up.

 

[bergerhag]

Friend of mine had his '13 stock pads so badly glazed they did nothing in terms of stopping power. Replaced them, all good afterwards.

 

[DirtbikeMichigan]

Here's my fix. We power bled the line and no change to the stopping power. Determined it's the travel that's the issue. Welded up a small extension and now it's good. Brake pedal has good adjustment now and plenty of stroke. See picture.

 

[nato]

Here's my fix. We power bled the line and no change to the stopping power. Determined it's the travel that's the issue. Welded up a small extension and now it's good. Brake pedal has good adjustment now and plenty of stroke. See picture.

Interesting you had to do that as mine is not fully adjusted and works fine. Got a shot of your pedal height now?

 

[DirtbikeMichigan]

I'll put one up tonight. What I can say is we rode hard for 2.5 hours last night and never had an issue with braking power.

 

[DirtbikeMichigan]

The picture looks worse than it is. Surface of the brake pedal is about 3/4 inch above peg. Didn't bother me, actually I proly drag the rear brake less. I do have some more adjustment but for now I will leave until I can make a better fix.

 

[nato]

I will have to check mine out to see the difference.