ongoing clutch trouble

[sammyj18]

Hey Guys,

I posted about this problem last summer and i thought I had it fixed but I guess not. My clutch seems to not be working. When I put it in gear bike it will die. When turned off I can not push the bike in gear with clutch engaged. Its like the clutch isnt even there.

I bled the system to check for air bubbles came out clean. I drained tranny oil, took off clutch cover, took out all plates to inspect. Plates look ok, basket has some marks but no major snags that would catch a plate.

With clutch assembled but clutch cover off: When I pull the clutch lever the pressure plate moves only the tiniest bit. Doesn't look like it would be enough to give the plates room to seperate when engine is running. So im thinking it is some kind of problem with the hydralic action past the lever. Like it isnt pushing on the pressure plate hard enough. If you are looking at the plates doesn anyone know about how much the presssure plate should pop out when you engage the clutch? What parts can I be replacing besides the main clutch master res.? Is there another part that could have gone bad past where the clutch line attaches to the engine?

Thanks,
Sam

 

[mxdj2003]

try rebudiling the clutch slave cylinder, maybe the seal is bad and the fluid is bypassing it

 

[sammyj18]

thanks I got 2 used ones headed my way. update to follow

 

[flybars]

If U go to ajpamerica.com, even though it is a trials website, U will glean some good info about our clutch unit and how everything works, from the mc at top all the way down to the slave cylinder. One thing I learned is it works much better to back bleed your system. They have a youtube section which explains how to do this. Gravity is working against U as far as the air bubbles are concerned.
They also have a readable text explaining all the things that could potentially cause clutch drag (not fully disengaging). Very good info. Hope this helps.

 

[jostby]

One thing I learned is it works much better to back bleed your system.

I used 2" pipe with a shut-off valve at the top and a nipple to slip a piece of hose on that will fit the bleed nipple on your caliper (bottom is capped). Use compressed air to "charge" it after filling it about 1/4 full with brake fluid then slowly blow the fluid backwards through the system while making sure you only allow the fluid to enter the system.
I call it my "pipe bomb" but it works real good. I originally made it for automotive use. You can actually buy them if you want to pay the price. Back-bleeding works real well. Just don't push too much at once (take it easy!)

 

[dank]

i watched the video on ajp's website, seems very complete and easy.