port time changing

2stroker

New member
Hi,

After a long search through the forum, I would like to share my experience with you Gassers:

I have just raised the cilinder on my 300 to clear the exhaust port (total amout of gaskets of 1,35 mm!), and have cutted the head to achieve the compression of 180 psi cold and 165 psi warm engine. The squish is about 1,5 outside to 2,4 mm inside edge. For now I will not reshape the combustion chamber, and I measured it 23 cc.

What is the main difference between aligned porting and the previous setup?

the question is: should I re-time the ignition to compensate the porting time change?

The bike has N1EG needle on first clip, 178 main and 38 slow. The spark plug seems to be ok, but the bike does not run well from idle to half throttle, beeing hesitating like too rich until the power valve opens. These symptoms already were present before changing port timing.

I removed a long time ago the 2 shims from power valve preload. Could it be the reason for the hesitation?

Thank you in advance,

Carlos
 
seems to me you acted before informing yourself of what you were about to do?
what gave you the idea of trying to do this mod if you don't know the purpose of it?
what was wrong with it before?

no offence, but it just made me curious (as i am by nature),eager to learn.

hope some one can shed a light on this topic :cool:

ciao, hannes.
 
In other 2 strokes I had, piston clears the exhaust port. I was advised to do this on GG300 to get all the power and hi-rev, as I use to ride on fast tracks, at hi speeds. For this reason, I would not raise the compression beyond 170 or 180 psi.

Good rides,

Carlos
 
Hi,

These symptoms already were present before changing port timing.

Carlos


I think you got ahead of yourself. Though fixing (?) the port timing may be a good idea I think you have jetting issues that should have been addressed first.
Check out the jetting "sticky" in the Intake/Carb 2-Stroke forum to see how you compare to others on this board.
I'm not up on needle sizes but your slow jet seems awful small. I run a 48 on my '00 and a 46 on my kids '04 (250's).
 
I just find a broken reed valve blade!....

I never suspected of it because I put a new set some months ago.

That should be the main reason for the rich idle and hesitating accelerating.

I will ride it next weekend and let you know.
 
Concerning about the port timing change, can anybody tell me if I will improve the bike raising the cilinder to clear the exhaust port?
 
Raising the cylinder will give you better exhaust port timing and give you better top end. Doing this will mean it is worth modifying the head to get the right squish. 0.9 - 1.3mm squish with 26-29cc's in the chamber is pretty good.
 
Hi Keg,

26-29 cc for a GG300, is a bit hi-compression, dont you think?
And Hi-compression is not good for hi revs.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Regards
 
I just find a broken reed valve blade!....

I never suspected of it because I put a new set some months ago.

That should be the main reason for the rich idle and hesitating accelerating.

I will ride it next weekend and let you know.

now did it help the rich idle, by replacing the reeds?
 
If you had to replace the reeds so soon it sounds like something's not right in there. Might just be that lean pilot causing a backfire that's trashing the reeds. 38 is pretty small compared to just about averyone on here. If I remember correctly 23cc is stock head volume so 26-29cc would lower compression. I just did the opposite of you (dropped the cylinder rather than raise it) so that the low end is still a usable tractor. Have to see if it hurt the over-rev, if so I'll need to re-shape the bowl.
 
Hi there, and happy new year gassers!

Well, after a long journey testing several sets in my 300 GG quad, I found the perfect formula!

pilot 38
main 182
raise the cilynder to clear the ehxaust port
set the squish to 1,00 mm
remove the 2 washers from the powervalve setup
NIEG first clip from above
and the most important, throtle valve number 9, instead of number 7!

I ran sea level, 5 to 15 degrees celsius.

Now, the quad just flyes!
 
Hi there, and happy new year gassers!

Well, after a long journey testing several sets in my 300 GG quad, I found the perfect formula!

pilot 38
main 182
raise the cilynder to clear the ehxaust port
set the squish to 1,00 mm
remove the 2 washers from the powervalve setup
NIEG first clip from above
and the most important, throtle valve number 9, instead of number 7!

I ran sea level, 5 to 15 degrees celsius.

Now, the quad just flyes!

what's the difference between the slides?
would you have a pic or make a drawing, or even discribe it?

hannes.
 
the GG Keihin throttle valves have a number stamped on it, and the greater the number the more air flow moves into the carb. So, keeping the same needle and raising the valve number, you get a leaner mixture, especially in low range.

Hope it helps.

This is a mode we do in europe, I saw it in a French forum.

Regards
 
the GG Keihin throttle valves have a number stamped on it, and the greater the number the more air flow moves into the carb. So, keeping the same needle and raising the valve number, you get a leaner mixture, especially in low range.

Hope it helps.

This is a mode we do in europe, I saw it in a French forum.

Regards


it should help :-)
where did you get that nr 9 slide?
 
Hi hannesd,

I borrowed it from a friend of mine and did the necessary machinig on my n?7 slide to equal the n? 9 one. It is an easy job if you get a drill with abrasive sand paper rollers. All you have to do is to cut about 1,2 mm (on slide n?7 profile) to obtain the n?9 intake curve.

I will try to send you a picture to you if you send me your pm.
 
Hi hannesd,

I borrowed it from a friend of mine and did the necessary machinig on my n?7 slide to equal the n? 9 one. It is an easy job if you get a drill with abrasive sand paper rollers. All you have to do is to cut about 1,2 mm (on slide n?7 profile) to obtain the n?9 intake curve.

I will try to send you a picture to you if you send me your pm.


EXCELLENT ! :D

thanks, hannes.
 
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