Problems at mid range

D

danielucioz

New member
Hello, i have a 2001 ec25 and when i ride at slow speeds and just a bit of throttle the bike does a back fire and if i dont full throttle for 3 seconds the bike after more 10 min of ride turns off and i need to change the spark plug. The plug when i remove it is full of gasoline. and when i try to rev in that 3 seconds the bike dont fully rev and smokes a little bit. after that is ok. And when i ride if i sometimes rev the bike to "clean" it rides completly normal. or if i ride just at high rpms the bike dont have any problem.

the carb is tunned with a 38 and a 168, the click of the needle is in the 1st

anyone knows what can be?

the oil mixture is at 1.8%
 
Stator is slowly breaking down. Pretty clear from backfire and worse hot.

KTM 2k3 part available ebay etc. Crimp wires bare with heatshrink.

Great bike will emerge from this.
 
(F5) said:
Stator is slowly breaking down. Pretty clear from backfire and worse hot.

KTM 2k3 part available ebay etc. Crimp wires bare with heatshrink.

Great bike will emerge from this.
Click to expand...
Is there a way to test the stator?

I recently (a month ago now) bought a 2001 EC250 (that is apparently converted to a 300) that it turns out is in terrible condition. ...for example when I took off the ignition cover quite an amount of water came out =S ...there was also the usual butchering of all the metric bolts; I'm in the US where they don't believe in the metric system ;)

I'm not convinced I even have the correct stator. It doesn't seem to match what the manual shows. ...although the manual I have is not great quality, I found it on manualslib.com; a bad scan of the original manual.

I'm excited to get it running so I can actually use it, waiting on a new jet block gasket and reeds currently. =D
 
So, practically. . . No.
A resistance test will let you know if it is broken. But not if it is breaking down in operation.

A heat chamber and a Mega likely will. I happen to have both at work.

But stator windings are terribly thin and don't last forever. They use KTM stator refered to as 2k2 or 2k3, I believe based on lighting coil output, which are separate from the ignition windings. Most of us don't care about that.
 
Funny story; in a mate's lockup there was a chap with a Plymouth Roadrunner, [edit, Superbird] Google it, the one with enormous spoiler. Not common, and even less so on this side of the world.

The horn had a decal informing the owner not to lose the adjustment screw as replacement would be difficult.
Yep. Japanese horn, so Metric. :rolleyes:

Now I think of it, I wonder if it went "Meep Meep?"
2nd edit: yes!
 
(F5) said:
So, practically. . . No.
A resistance test will let you know if it is broken. But not if it is breaking down in operation.

A heat chamber and a Mega likely will. I happen to have both at work.

But stator windings are terribly thin and don't last forever. They use KTM stator refered to as 2k2 or 2k3, I believe based on lighting coil output, which are separate from the ignition windings. Most of us don't care about that.
Click to expand...

Thank-you for the prompt reply! I love active forums. :)

I found a Kokusan 2k-2 stator. It was $230ish. :( I'm already plenty into fixing (and some upgrading) of a "cheap" dirt bike. so I'll just add the stator to the list of things I'm keeping my fingers crossed about ...or my wife might kill me before I even get to ride it. :D

...backfiring isn't something the bike has done yet, so hopefully the stator is indeed good. I did see someone suggesting rewinding(?) the stator yourself. They made it sound very easy, however they gave no details on the procedure. So, for now I'll wait on that adventure.

Once I get the engine running my time would probably be better spent on looking at the suspension. I now have a lead on what the forks might be, thanks to a post by slocalspode here. WP 4860's! Next will probably be trying to find new seals for them. I'm hoping slocalspode will send me a copy of the manuals for them.

PS. That Plymouth Superbird is a strange looking car. :D
 
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Winding yourself is theoretical possible, but sheesh.

I rewound a Beta Trials stator 18 months ago. But, and it's a BigButt, it was 4 windings so the ign coil sat out in the air so easy access. I built a holder and spun it in the lathe. After some false startes with breaking of hair like wire I got the process. But it was like 30 min to spool it with max adrenaline concentration. Sod that by hand.

Join the stator near airbox. Cut and crimp with bare copper crimps (I cut down bullet crimps) and heatshrink. Pre insulated connectors are the work of the devil.
 
Careful when selecting a stator, it needs to match your flywheel. I think the usual tell is where the wires exit the engine case. 2K2 in the front slot, 2K3 in the rear slot.
 
If the pick-up is in the same location is it likely that the flywheel is different? I hope I haven't been to blasie In my advice. A good scan of the Despice parts listing could tell you.

Was it the DE model (only get EC here) that had the 2k2?
My EC300 07 is at rear near pick-up.
 
Neil E. said:
Careful when selecting a stator, it needs to match your flywheel. I think the usual tell is where the wires exit the engine case. 2K2 in the front slot, 2K3 in the rear slot.
Click to expand...

I don't think I need a new one, I was curious if there was a way to test them to see if they were going bad.

That's interesting about the different slots. Mine is exiting out the front slot, but the manual show a different stator going out the rear slot. So I'm assuming mine's not the original. :rolleyes:
...what happens if the flywheel doesn't match?
 
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