Psst - fork bleeders

stay_upright

New member
Do you find these help? I rarely check my screws but only very occasionally notice air coming out.

I think perhaps air builds up more with newer fork oil?

I guess they are a lot more vunerable than normal screws - any problems there?
 
These are the ones I like if you want bleeders. Very low profile and well sealed. Use the ones for KTM in black. 4mm thread

http://www.systemtechracing.com/

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These are the ones I like if you want bleeders.

That sounds like politician talk... :p

Do we want bleeders? They seem like a good idea to me but...

I asked the guy who revalved my suspension if he had bleeders... he was not too hot on them. I think his "reason" was they were vulnerable to being busted off and then you are stuck with an oil pump squirting you in the face if it happens mid race or out in the woods somewhere. (which is I guess when it would happen)

These particular models look very low profile and you'd have to try pretty hard to bust one of them off.

Those rigid bar end mounts look sweet too. The moose ones I have now are not too solid.

Further comment appreciated.
 
bar end inserts look interesting but ...
Can you get the time sert back out if the need arises??
What happens if you whack a tree and the barkbuster rips out the end of the bar?? Now your screwed. How do you get the stripped or screwed up time sert out?? I've come back from more than one ride after whacking a few trees to notice the buster end had come out a bit. Maybe having a little give in the system isn't a bad thing. What about if you change bars?? gotta buy another set of inserts??
 
These are the ones I like if you want bleeders. Very low profile and well sealed. Use the ones for KTM in black. 4mm thread

I use these same ones on both my GG and Husky bikes. Before every ride, I give them a push and here the pssst... I love that sound. :D

Does it work? Yeah, it lets out the built up pressure. Any closed system (fixed volume) will increase pressure due to temperature increase. So you can relief the pressure throughout the ride very easily at rest stops.

Some folks say you have to put the bike on a stand then relieve pressure at full extension. I prefer to do it with the wheels on the ground under the bike weight (static sag). Then, I relieve the pressure to normalize the system.

The real question is can you "feel" a difference? Yes, I can tell when there is a bit more harshness with pressure built up. It is more noticeable on my Husky SM610 on the road (tar strips, frost heaves, etc.). The same applies to roots and rocks on my GG.

Another benefit is during transporting the bike. With the bike tied down, you can relieve the pressure and minimize seal leakage concerns. I do this only on long trips if the bike would be tied down all day traveling. NOTE: don't forget to equalize the pressure before riding or you risk cavatation of the oil (due to pulling a vacuum during fork travel).
 
bar end inserts look interesting but ...
Can you get the time sert back out if the need arises??
What happens if you whack a tree and the barkbuster rips out the end of the bar?? Now your screwed. How do you get the stripped or screwed up time sert out?? I've come back from more than one ride after whacking a few trees to notice the buster end had come out a bit. Maybe having a little give in the system isn't a bad thing. What about if you change bars?? gotta buy another set of inserts??

I use the Atec bar inserts which are similar but made of steel instead of aluminum. Yes they are removable. You can loctite them in but really there is no reason as they can't go anywhere. They work awesome and if you rip one out you probably have much bigger problems to worry about:eek: All these things are is a big set screw with a hole drilled through them and tapped for the hanguard screw. The allen head of the set screw is still there to insert/remove the insert.
 
i bought motion pro fork bleeders-the one w/the drill bit and tap. what a mistake. should have thought about it more before i drilled. now i may have to buy a new fork cap. drilled at the bleeder screw hole. now the hex on the cap interfere with threading in the bleeders. why didnt go fasters tell me you could buy bleeders for a ktm(4mm). pissed off and pissed on
 
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