Putting in new rings
- Thread starter 101racing
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skid jackson
New member
Hope like hell the rings fit!!
My first top end ever .. on my 06 300 really only needed new rings ... unfortunately the rings shipped did not work in the stock piston .. it turned into a little mystery as the part number was correct and the rings inside the package were correct. They just did not like the stock piston ..I had to get a new piston and rings.
My first top end ever .. on my 06 300 really only needed new rings ... unfortunately the rings shipped did not work in the stock piston .. it turned into a little mystery as the part number was correct and the rings inside the package were correct. They just did not like the stock piston ..I had to get a new piston and rings.
2 strokes 4 life
New member
Well some people just use scotch bright but really that Nikas lining is supper strong.
To do any realy good just take it to a shop and have them use a diamond hone. It should cost $30 at max then you know the bore is straight and what not.
To do any realy good just take it to a shop and have them use a diamond hone. It should cost $30 at max then you know the bore is straight and what not.
It's pretty tough. Scotch-Brite ain't gonna touch it. If you have any aluminum on it, from a melt-down, then apply muriatic acid with a Q-tip to remove it. Might have to sand a bit too. When Q-tip is clean you should be set (no more aluminum). Better to get diamond honed, as stated.
101.
The ball hone I used is just a standard 3" version.
I don't think they make different grit hones.
The idea is just to break the glaze off.
Usually, 3 times up and down will do the job. You want a 45 degree cross hatch pattern when you're done.
Use WD40 to lube it while honing.
The ball hone I used is just a standard 3" version.
I don't think they make different grit hones.
The idea is just to break the glaze off.
Usually, 3 times up and down will do the job. You want a 45 degree cross hatch pattern when you're done.
Use WD40 to lube it while honing.
2 strokes 4 life
New member
You wont be able to afford a diamond hone. The 3 ball does nothing on these cylinders because the plating is much too hard. Plus you run the risk of making un-square. Just take it to a machine shop or bike shop.
Wow, I have never seen a subject that has so many differing opinions! And now I will add mine....
Seems I have read that the nikasil plating is pretty thin and that neither bar-type hones or ball type are recommended because of the chance of wearing through. Scotchbrite is what was recommended and like Brian VT said muriatic acid to remove any aluminum that may be present (use appropriate safety precautions). That being said I tried scotch brite and didn't have any luck whatsoever trying to make things look the way "I thought" it should and I didn't have any aluminum to try to clean off.
If there is any cylinder taper top to bottom a bar-type hone will not clean it up until you come close to (or do) wear through the plating. That leaves the ball hone which does a good job as long as all you do is de-glaze just as gasgasman said. It will also clean uneven surfaces (cylinder taper). I have also used bar hones with a scotchbrite pad between the hone and the cylinder and that works good too. You just have to remember you are just trying to deglaze, not bore to the next size! And use plenty of clean lube.
Seems I have read that the nikasil plating is pretty thin and that neither bar-type hones or ball type are recommended because of the chance of wearing through. Scotchbrite is what was recommended and like Brian VT said muriatic acid to remove any aluminum that may be present (use appropriate safety precautions). That being said I tried scotch brite and didn't have any luck whatsoever trying to make things look the way "I thought" it should and I didn't have any aluminum to try to clean off.
If there is any cylinder taper top to bottom a bar-type hone will not clean it up until you come close to (or do) wear through the plating. That leaves the ball hone which does a good job as long as all you do is de-glaze just as gasgasman said. It will also clean uneven surfaces (cylinder taper). I have also used bar hones with a scotchbrite pad between the hone and the cylinder and that works good too. You just have to remember you are just trying to deglaze, not bore to the next size! And use plenty of clean lube.
I have to agree with this statement 100%. But have to add, using a ball hone will work good for an experienced machinist about 20% of the time. THE most important thing is; NOT to nick or damage the port opening where the 'flash" raps around the port window opening.
If this area is removed or cut open, or chipped, then the plating on the cylinder wall can start to flake off or layer off, and that is a very bad thing to happen.
It is a little more work (elbow grease), but the 3M Scotch-Brite pad in the kitchen sink with warm soapy water does the best job for a plated cylinder in a top end rebuild.
Thank you,
Ron
