Sachs Fork Bleeders?

Try the STRs. One of the innovators of the technology, and made in the good old USA.

Best news is that for 2011 the Sachs use a 5mm thread on the bleed screw!
 
Try the STRs. One of the innovators of the technology, and made in the good old USA.

Best news is that for 2011 the Sachs use a 5mm thread on the bleed screw!
I like those. I was hoping my KTM bleeders would fit, but way too small. 4mm I think. Do you know which STR to cross-reference for 5mm? I'm not sure who else uses this size and they only list KTM and Jap applications, and I didn't see much size info.
 
Nothing fits the 2010's. I had to drill mine out and put ProBleeders on.
I should have clarified I have the 2011's, but I assumed they were all the same until twowheels mentioned it. I heard the 2010's are 3mm? If so then that is tiny and no wonder they changed them for 2011.

On twowheels advice I talked to STR and we did some measurements with our calipers, me on the depth and width of the vent bore of the Sachs cap and John from STR on the height of their 5mm units to where bottom of their wrench will sit. Looks they will fit just fine, so I put a pair on order.

The 2011 Sachs vent tap is definitely 5mm x .80 pitch.
 
STR bleeders for 2011 Sachs forks . . .

Edit: This is for my 2011 Sachs forks, which I understand have different size bleed holes (5mm .80 pitch) from previous years (3mm?).

To update I got a set of the STR bleeders. They thread in fine as expected, but you have to move the installed o-ring on the bleeder to the lowest position just above the threads to make use of it.

Before receiving them I suspected there would an issue with the large diameter counter-bore in the fork cap. The bore is a few mm wider than the body of the bleeder, so I knew I was going to end up with a little well to catch dirt and sand. It's easy enough to blow out with the air gun if I ever wanted to remove the bleeders, but I wanted something to seal them up and keep it out. O-rings didn't seem to be an option, so I bought a couple wellnuts with the appropriate size ID and cut the flange off to use as a gasket. That seemed to work pretty good.

The bleeders have a nice low profile, even though maybe not as low as the intended fork bore (Showa or KYB?). As you can see they only stick up a few mm above the fork cap head. I may be able to come up with something better later, but until then I think this setup is going to work fine.

STR-3.jpg


STR-2.jpg


STR-1.jpg
 
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Looking good. Did you get to ride the bike yet? Snow all gone up there? I lived there for 20 years and don't miss the snow at all. :D
 
Just ridden it around the yard so far, but the snow is pretty much gone finally. Clearing my loop today and hope to get a ride in this weekend. Got more jetting to sort out, but at least it's rideable now.
 
Installed it this weekend. Mine stock had the N1EF clip 3, 40 pilot, and 180 main. It ran pretty good, but once it got hot I could hear it surging at idle.

Installed the JD kit, Red needle clip 3, 45 pilot, 172 main. Bike runs really well now.

Do you have the 36 or 38 carb? It's well worth the try. I've always like the way the JD needles perform.
 
I've got the 38mm. Good to hear you have it sorted. I just ordered a YZ needle (N3EJ) to play around with per Les's recommendation at LTR. If I can't get it where I want it with that or the other needles I've picked up I may go with a JD needle. Thanks.
 
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