Scotts Damper Settings

[Neil E.]

A damper seems necessary for those unexpected hits like a stray rock in the middle of a trail or maybe an angled log surprise. What settings do you use? I'm most curious about the high speed adjustment.

Here's where I'm at now:
LO Bottomed in then 1.5 turns out (12 clicks)
HI Topped out then 1.25 turns in
SWEEP 12 o'clock equal to 45 degrees (stock)

Does a damper have any value in the trees? I need to learn to stay away from saplings, they always do me in. I expect that the backbusters will move them aside but the saplings are unusually tough and throw me off course. Being old and needing a strong eyeglass prescription is frustrating. The only area that's in focus is directly ahead and I have difficulty determining whether I'll be tapping a small branch or if it will be one of those f'n saplings you could use to make a crossbow.

Does the HI speed setting do anything for tree strikes? The amount of leverage on the damper post must be incredible. Anyone set their HI speed damping too high? What is the result?

 

[rgranger]

Shane Watt's had a good tip for riding trees, "If you are going to hit one, hit the smaller one!" Yes, it will help with trees because you are going to have those off angle roots and other oddities that nature will put square in the trail that you can't always dodge

 

[GMP]

Neil, most of the value to me is in the high speed ckt of the Scotts. Mostly for rock deflection protection, but it also helps keep the bike in line if you tag a tree with the edge of the handguard, and gives it a chance to slide off rather than being sucked in. The only time I turn up the low speed is when I'm in a deep sand section, and then turn it back down when I go back in the woods. I go from 8 - 10 out to 4 and then back. I set my HS more sensitive at 1 - 1.25 turns out. Sweep stock. Yes, the forces on the tower are high, and I have bent two and broken one over the past ten years. The Scotts GG tower is crap. I made one based on the longer (+10mm) Scotts arm. This places less force on the tower and allows the use of a larger dia. post. Works well. Your a talented guy, machine your own. Since I'm keeping my '07 for my son and making it a 200, I'll need another one. If you decide to make one, perhaps we can work something out. PMB/Fastway has a tower in the works but its back in the pipeline not due for a few months yet.

 

[Neil E.]

Glenn, I made my own post clamp and tower assembly, no problems there. I'll have to bottom out my high speed adjuster and back it out to see how it compares to your setting. I suppose a tree strike would cause the bike to lean over since the damper is slowing the steering movement.

On my first ride it seemed to take way too much effort to make the bike turn. I finally clued in to the fact that the settings were still from the previous bike that was twitchier. The Scotts manual says never set the hi speed with the bike on a stand. Huh? Do they expect us to go out into a field and ride into a big rock for testing?

 

[Neil E.]

I just checked the Hi speed and it has 2.5 turns of adjustment. My 1.25 IN setting is within your 1 - 1.25 OUT range. I'll change mine to 1.25 turns out LOL.

 

[GMP]

I think they say not to do that because you can see the crappy post flex. Once your 12 clicks out on the low speed its close to no resistance, BUT, the high speed ckt is more effective. This is what I like, the high speed lock just slows things down enough for your mind and body to react successfully.

 

[Simmo737]

Does anyone else have a small leak through the HS adjuster, very minor?

Cheers, just adjusted the HS for the first time and wow, you can really smash into things even more! I dont think I should have read this post!!!!!