Scotts Stabilizer

[lordfeyr]

Hey guys,

I just picked up a setup for my bike.

BRP Triple Clamp with Scotts Mounting Hardware and Scotts Stabilizer.


The question I have though is that the silver rod in the bolt on bracket seems short.... I had to adjust that black plastic cap over the rod to extend it far enough up to fit inside the stabilizer arm. I am concerned about that black plastic piece allowing the rod to slip down over time making the rod not fit into the stabilizer making it do nothing for me....

Is the rod too short? Does it actually slip? What should I do? I can call scotts to see if they make a longer one or have it tack welded into place to keep it from sliding... etc...


Anyone with this same setup that has pictures is greatly appreciated.


On a side note the bike looks freaking great with the black 06 fat bars, grey clamp and stabilizer. I even put on some new black/blue grips.

 

[Noel]

Adjusting he

I have a under-bar setup and had to adjust the height of the "as you call it the silver rod" using the black adjustment assembly,the "silver rod" has never slipped

 

[GMP]

My experience with damper towers on three GGs

lordfeyr,

I hate to say this but I suspect that setup will cause you problems for two reasons.

First, that is the old style tower clamp, its actually a YZ part that happens to fit the GasGas steering head, but the clamp area is inadequate IMO. It slips and moves. You can't tighten it enough due to the thin cross section and M5 hardware. I broke two of these from fatigue failure.

Second, those bar risers greatly aggrevate the situation, making the tower taller and placing a lot more leverage on it. You also have to be sure that the pin has enough bearing area in the tower itself, and seeing how far it is adjusted I doubt this.


BRP/Scotts has a secong gen GasGas specific tower that is better, but not perfect either. It clamps tight enough and does not slip but I have bent two of them from the forces of the high speed ckt in the damper tripping on rock hit deflections.

In an attempt to cure this, I went to a submount and shortened the tower, for increased rigidity and strength. I HATED the tall bar position, so I went back to a top mount with my own design tower.

The problem with the GG tower design is its based on the standard damper arm offset (distance from center). This does not allow for a full length post of adequate strength. Look at both towers and you'll see what I mean. I designed and had made what I call my "long arm tower". Its based on a damper arm with a +10mm offset. This allows a much stiffer 15mm OD post on a larger, thicker base welded to the clamp ring. It has completely solved my problems and does not slip or flex at all.

Since this is likely more than you want to do, the next best thing would be to get the newer BRP tower, and weld a stiffener section on the rear side.

FYI, to use the OEM vent in the frame, get a 90 deg M6 grease fiitting and drill out the end to remove the ball and spring. I use this for my trans PV vent.

 

[lordfeyr]

I have a under-bar setup and had to adjust the height of the "as you call it the silver rod" using the black adjustment assembly,the "silver rod" has never slipped

Thanks Noel I will give it a shot and see if it slips or not.

lordfeyr,

I hate to say this but I suspect that setup will cause you problems for two reasons.

First, that is the old style tower clamp, its actually a YZ part that happens to fit the GasGas steering head, but the clamp area is inadequate IMO. It slips and moves. You can't tighten it enough due to the thin cross section and M5 hardware. I broke two of these from fatigue failure.

Second, those bar risers greatly aggrevate the situation, making the tower taller and placing a lot more leverage on it. You also have to be sure that the pin has enough bearing area in the tower itself, and seeing how far it is adjusted I doubt this.


BRP/Scotts has a secong gen GasGas specific tower that is better, but not perfect either. It clamps tight enough and does not slip but I have bent two of them from the forces of the high speed ckt in the damper tripping on rock hit deflections.

In an attempt to cure this, I went to a submount and shortened the tower, for increased rigidity and strength. I HATED the tall bar position, so I went back to a top mount with my own design tower.

The problem with the GG tower design is its based on the standard damper arm offset (distance from center). This does not allow for a full length post of adequate strength. Look at both towers and you'll see what I mean. I designed and had made what I call my "long arm tower". Its based on a damper arm with a +10mm offset. This allows a much stiffer 15mm OD post on a larger, thicker base welded to the clamp ring. It has completely solved my problems and does not slip or flex at all.

Since this is likely more than you want to do, the next best thing would be to get the newer BRP tower, and weld a stiffener section on the rear side.

FYI, to use the OEM vent in the frame, get a 90 deg M6 grease fiitting and drill out the end to remove the ball and spring. I use this for my trans PV vent.

Thanks for your respose. Do you have a pic of how you did the 90 to vent at the frame? Never knew that could be done...

Im going to take the parts to a buddy house and ask him to machine a new arm that will go all the way through the bracket. Right now the bottom of the silver post is flush with the edge of the clamp. I figure if it can be made about 1 inch longer and stepped to keep it from sliding down or up that should help a bunch. Also stepping it would allow a bit thicker of a rod to keep it from bending.

As for the clamp... I might just throw a couple tack welds to hold it in place. Those allen bolts on the clamp definately seemd kinda small.

 

[GMP]

Not much to take a pic of really. Get a 90 deg M6 grease fitting at the auto parts store, the lowest profile you can get. Now, just start with a drill slightly bigger than the check ball opening and drill in a mm or so. The ball will compress the spring and when the drill is backed out, both will come out as the shoulder was drilled away, providing an open fitting. You may have to go up in drill size until this occurs. Than clean things up, install, and slip the tube on.