spring rates for lars azz, help

M

mackmack

New member
I'm 6'2" about 275 lbs without gear.. what spring rates do i need for my 300. I ride lots of rocks /creeks, slow woods under 25 mph and don't want to get too beat up..

46 or 48's in the front okay

5.7-5.9 in the rear okay..

also will the fork feel okay with stiffer springs without a revalve or will it has too little (too fast) hs rebound..

Right now stock the bike feels waaaayyyy better than any of the other 15 KTMs i've owned , but its very undersprung for speeds above 15 mph..


this is the terrain i ride i took this video on a ktm a few months ago
the good stuff starts @ about minute 2 http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8374914064354961254

or check out the copperhead trail video on my site (it take a while to download 12 min long )

http://kywoodsriders.com/files/ark_long_12m.wmv
 
190 lbs on EC300

Hi,

I have no idea about which springs would be right for you, but if it helps to compare I found mine.

I weigh 190 nekkid and it should be 200lbs with gear, camelback and fannypack.

Stock on my '07 is 5.2 back and .42 in front. Back seems perfect but front too soft. Why the imbalance seems strange. When riding it seemed a little harsh in rocks and very wallowy in general.

Using the Race Tech computer on their web page and testing with several bikes and types of riding, it states .44's.

I talked to my suspension guy and he said the rear was right but I should have .45's in front. Had them in stock and at a great price.

Threw them in, changed most of the oil, set the oil height same as before at 110mm, put the clickers close to the middle and went riding.

Wow! With the balance front and back the valving seemed steadier and the wallowing was gone. Rocks and roots were superb. Finding exact settings for compression, rebound will be taken care of some other time, but in general the suspension works really, really good.

At 105mm sag, forks at 10mm up and these settings the chassis is stable at speed and turns really well.

One happy camper!
 
Just tried the new spring setup on an MX track and it worked surprisingly well. Suspension now seems perfect for 70% woods and 30% MX.

Before it was very wallowy and bottomed front and rear very easily. Now it stays up decently on jump faces, no harshness on rollers or sharp hits. Nice and steady at speed, turns with confidence on hairpins or sweepers. Now all travel is available for whatever needs.

I was very certain I'd need a revalve to slightly stiffer for all-purpose use, but now it works so well so that won't be neccessary.

What an amazing bike...
 
Call Les at LTR he will fix you up. I am in the middle of mine right know. Give him a call if no answer leave a message he will call you back. You can not go wrong here.
 
Just an FYI, I have 0.43 and 5.6 springs in my 07 250 (A level rider, setup for ISDE riding which is fairly open terrain).

0.45 and 5.2 sounds unbalanced to me...
 
At 200lbs with gear, for standup riding head over the claps, stock valving with marzocci 45's and sachs rear, .45 front and 5.2 rear it seems very close.

After 3 years of testing with the fully adjustable NOST valves on the previous bike I've become sensitive to setup. I'm not fast, but better at testing. Also noticed how complicated suspension is and how easy it is to chase the wrong symptoms. Best of course is to find a real guru and let them figure out the whole deal, which is what I was aiming for.

Every bike up to now has had very close to .44 front and 5.0 back either kayaba or showa. Since this is a woods setup it's probably more spring and less damping, so it seems to make sense.

But hey, suspension seems to be a never ending story. Why does it seem right for now? Because nothing seems to work wrong (at my slow speeds). Soft when supposed to, firm when supposed to, no quirks, just enough feedback but not more, stable at speed but turns in nicely, doesn't tuck under or jump out of a rut, stays in a turn, stays down when gassing it out of a corner, jumps level front and back, rear doesn't go sideways off jumps, front doesn't dive much into turns and leaves travel for the braking bumps, rear doesn't kick on braking bumps, etc.

The best of course might be to film the action to see for certain what is happening under the fenders (and see the goon riding for laughs) :D
 
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