Stator help needed

[Neil E.]

I've been studying the wiring diagram to understand how the stator is connected. The diagram is a typical simplified representation, so it's not helping much. These bikes were described somewhere as having a full DC electrical system, but that's not the case.

Look at the stator symbol and you can clearly see a yellow wire shown tapping off partway up the windings. That yellow wire goes to the regulator and headlight. Thus the headlight runs on AC current.

The black wire shown at the top of the windings goes to the rectifier and comes out as DC current (red wire).

I haven't pulled the stator off my bike to investigate, but there is a stator picture in the 2011 manual (though not neccessarily a 2011 picture).

There are 8 posts on the stator. The one at 225* is obviously the ignition winding. The smaller one at 180* has me baffled. What is it's function? I can't make out the others well enough to see if they are all identically wound. I'd like to know how the various windings are connected and where the ground point is.

I suspect that 3 of the larger windings are used for AC only, and 3 are used for AC rectified to DC. I intend to mount some LED offroad lights instead of the stock light. LEDs will work on AC but won't be as bright. The issue for me is that I want to use a PWM based dimmer that needs DC power. Using the dimmer to drive an AC switching device is clumsy, so I'm considering a second rectifier for the headlight circuit.

If the windings were all in series with the ground point at the bottom end, I would ignore the yellow wire. Does anyone know the actual rating for the stator? I guess it will be something like 70W at 7000 RPM.

 

[GMP]

If its like the 2K-3s I've had, there should also be a white wire. This is a lower current output tap that is usually left open in GG applications (likely why its not shown), but is used for charging in some other applications. The voltage is out of phase with the main output yellow wire. I no longer have my spare 2K-3 to check but I think this is from the winding you questioned. There are a lot of posts on DC conversions. Whether you float the ground at the stator, or set it up for isolated DC, the way to go is with a Trailtech rectifier regulator or something similar of your own design. The new crop of high power emitter LED driving lights like the Vision X are excellent, but I don't think AC is an option as they run on there own integrated driver. With a 10W load each, the 2K-3 should be able to run more than you can fit on the bike! I'm looking at running a pair on a DC system from a 35W 2K-2.

 

[Neil E.]

The Vison X are popular, but seem to work best as supplemental lighting. I decided to go with two 24W lights available from here: http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/StoreFront.bok

Here is a thread that discusses them:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607184

Recently another fellow came up with a programmable dimmer that might be very handy:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651333

I ordered a pair of the 24W floodlights as I think this will be the best beam pattern for woods riding. It will take some experimenting to see if they will be OK on an isolated rectifier on the headlight circuit. Your point about internal electronics is important and I'll delve into it when I have the lights.

The trailtech regulator is interesting in that it looks to have a separate output for battery charging (based on a different negative connection). Diagram is here:
http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf

 

[GMP]

As I thought LED options are coming hard and fast with prices dropping. Thats a great price for that light. I suspect they use the same emitters as the Vision X, only three, driven slightly less for thermal control in that package. I have two VisionX Solstice spots on my Hypermotard mounted to the handguard mounts, and the headlight is irrelavant, would hardly notice if it blew out. I think this would be fine for night trail rides and if anything else is needed I would add it as helmet light(s). Keep us posted when you get them. I wonder how the quality is at that price. The VisionX while more $$ is very high quality, rugged alloy housing, and fully waterproof including the connector system. Ran all of '10 season on the street, night and day, no issues.

My thought on the lighting was to make it modular, so I could swap it for a number plate eaisly. Isolate the DC just for the lights at the lights, but I plan to use a 2K-2 that does not have a separate ground wire in the stator harness and this way makes the most sense. Lights, switch, rect/reg, filter capacitor (or small battery) in one assembly that runs off the AC just like the OEM headlight.

The drive electronics (Vision X at least) basically run the lights at a fixed power output from 9 to 30 VDC input, so current drops with increased voltage. The new version Vision X has a dimmer control. I do not think you can manipulate the supply voltage in an attempt to contol the lights.

Yes the TT rect/reg has a separate regulated charging output so you don't overcharge the battery. You could really rethink your entire system and do a full DC conversion.

Good Luck!

 

[Neil E.]

The TT rect/reg has a separate regulated charging output so you don't overcharge the battery. You could really rethink your entire system and do a full DC conversion. Good Luck!

I would even consider three reg/rect if need be. One stock, one doing the headlight AC to DC and one to convert the "little" winding AC to DC. It's basically free energy since the magnets are always exciting that winding anyway. Might be good enough to power a GPS.

It really all starts at the stator so I've got to work on the stator specs. The resistance value of each winding and how they are tied together is what I need.

 

[GMP]

Neil,

Look at the wires and forget the drawing for the time being. I'll bet there is a white wire in the harness just capped off. Also do a search there is a lot of info on DC conversions with 2K-3s.