brenduro999
New member
Does anybody know where i can get my hands on a Steel gear leaver for my 00 ec200? the aluminum ones just go on me within a few hours 
Steel Gear Leavers!!!
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nknudsen
Member
Does anybody know where i can get my hands on a Steel gear leaver for my 00 ec200? the aluminum ones just go on me within a few hours
The toe shift lever? What fails? (bending or spline failure?) Is the shaft spline in good shape? Do you get a good crush on the shaft when tightening it down?
brenduro999
New member
yes the toe shift leaver, it fails on the spine, it tightens down just fine no play or anything but then after a few hours it just goes i don't have a particularly heavy foot either! the shaft seems ok but i can only imagine after 13 years of use it worn down slightly! any ideas or tips?
nknudsen
Member
When you tighten it down are the halfs of the lever (where the bolt goes thru) touching or a burr in that gap? If close, you could file or cut off wheel some material away to give a bit more crush?? Your problem seems not very typical. Is there old shifter aluminum in the root of the spline on the shaft. Use a sharp pic to pull any old material out of the shaft spline.
Zman
Platinum Level Site Supporter
A few months back I purchased a XC250 engine that had a lot of play in the shifter. After closer inspection the shift shaft splines had a considerable amount of wear in the center portion of their length.
Have you tried one of the Emgo shifters from ebay or gofasters? You may also try some of the #660 Loctite on the splines to try to fill the gap. The other solution is to replace the shift shaft.
Have you tried one of the Emgo shifters from ebay or gofasters? You may also try some of the #660 Loctite on the splines to try to fill the gap. The other solution is to replace the shift shaft.
I'm having the exact problem with a DRZ 400. The old MSR steel shifter worked well until I sheared it off. I bought a cheapie aluminum aftermarket from Rocky Mountain, and it is just so soft the aluminum splines wear off in an hour, requiring constant tightening. (The shaft is good and the gap is not closed). I'm ordering another MSR steel, but it is a strange problem. I've never had any aluminum shifter do this before.
KTMAndy
New member
Glad I read this, I'm onto my 3rd aluminium shifter in 2 years. Exactly the same issue, the spline is fine.
I've opened up the end, replaced the bolt, made the bolt hole wider and put a nut on the end, but with the same issue. After 2 or 3 rides, the fkin thing starts to slap about.
Glad I'm not alone! Yesterday I was having to physically yank my hole leg up to raise the lever to find a gear... Yelling any gear will do!
I've opened up the end, replaced the bolt, made the bolt hole wider and put a nut on the end, but with the same issue. After 2 or 3 rides, the fkin thing starts to slap about.
Glad I'm not alone! Yesterday I was having to physically yank my hole leg up to raise the lever to find a gear... Yelling any gear will do!
GMP
Active member
I have never had this happen once in 13 yrs.
I antiseize the bolt and splines, and tighten it down good. How I can see it failing there is if you let it get loose, letting dirt in the aluminum/steel contact area and aggrevating the problem. I have a problem with the steel tips wearing the alloy lever out at the pivot.
I antiseize the bolt and splines, and tighten it down good. How I can see it failing there is if you let it get loose, letting dirt in the aluminum/steel contact area and aggrevating the problem. I have a problem with the steel tips wearing the alloy lever out at the pivot.
wrench
Gold Level Site Supporter
An old trick from back in the day was to wrap the shift shaft with one round of electrical [black] tape. Widen the gap of the shift lever slightly with a screwdriver to get it to slide over the taped shaft, then tighten it up.
This trackside "solution" ended up lasting for a season or two.
This trackside "solution" ended up lasting for a season or two.
It used to happen all the time, (70s-80s), even with some factory steel levers and the first aluminum ones. Usually never happens these days with any factory or good aftermarket steel or aluminum ones. I sometimes still buy Rocky Mountain's house brand parts, drive, levers, cables, etc but it's a crap shoot. Usually their brand stuff is ok, but it seems to be made in various countries/factories. I've had Primary Drive chains and sprockets last as long as RKs or DIDs, then bought the exact same parts and they last half as long. Rocky Mountain will almost always replace junk parts with no problem. It is usually half price initially, so sometimes I take a chance, and usually am satisfied, but not always.
I've never had a steel or aluminum MSR, Moose, or factory lever fail before it's time in the last 20 years. My theory is that for where I ride in rocks and stumps and roots a steel lever is better because if you smash it into something the lever will usually bend or break rather than snap a shaft. I've snapped shafts on several bikes with strong aluminum levers, even a couple times with safety cables attached, (usually called brake/lever snakes). I've also broken shift detent bolts off inside the case, the bolts that hold the shift forks in place, and that has only happened with aluminum shift levers on a KTM and twice on a Kawasaki. The strong shift lever transmits impact to the shift fork, and either the shift fork bends, the shaft breaks, or the shift fork bolt breaks. Once on a KX 500 the shift lever was bent and cracked, the shift fork bent, and the bolt inside the case was broken off, all from one impact.
If you bend a steel lever it will usually bend back and be useable. Even if it snaps, you can usually use pliers to put the bike in a gear and get out of the woods. I've even finished races with Vise Grips clamped on what was left of a lever and could still shift. In the old days we always carried extra shift levers just in case. The factory guys usually had complete motors, wheels, handlebars, levers, all laying out by the truck ready to replace to finish a race. Some guys would have a complete extra bike with all the bolts finger tight sitting on a stand ready to pull off parts for the race bike.
For those of you who didn't ride before about 1985, and especially in the 70s, it sucked! Motors blew, transmissions, parts, brakes failed, and suspension generally sucked, but at the time we didn't know any better.
I've used the tape trick around the shaft, Loctite, super glue, even aluminum foil. It's hard to find but there is a special Loctite that has about the same hold factor as standard red, but expands twice as much. NAPA can usually order it, but doesn't stock it. Air Force and Army helo mechanics can get it. If your shaft is good, and you use a good brand lever, properly tightened, with Loctite on the bolt, the Loctite on the shaft is just a precaution, but why not?
I've never had a steel or aluminum MSR, Moose, or factory lever fail before it's time in the last 20 years. My theory is that for where I ride in rocks and stumps and roots a steel lever is better because if you smash it into something the lever will usually bend or break rather than snap a shaft. I've snapped shafts on several bikes with strong aluminum levers, even a couple times with safety cables attached, (usually called brake/lever snakes). I've also broken shift detent bolts off inside the case, the bolts that hold the shift forks in place, and that has only happened with aluminum shift levers on a KTM and twice on a Kawasaki. The strong shift lever transmits impact to the shift fork, and either the shift fork bends, the shaft breaks, or the shift fork bolt breaks. Once on a KX 500 the shift lever was bent and cracked, the shift fork bent, and the bolt inside the case was broken off, all from one impact.
If you bend a steel lever it will usually bend back and be useable. Even if it snaps, you can usually use pliers to put the bike in a gear and get out of the woods. I've even finished races with Vise Grips clamped on what was left of a lever and could still shift. In the old days we always carried extra shift levers just in case. The factory guys usually had complete motors, wheels, handlebars, levers, all laying out by the truck ready to replace to finish a race. Some guys would have a complete extra bike with all the bolts finger tight sitting on a stand ready to pull off parts for the race bike.
For those of you who didn't ride before about 1985, and especially in the 70s, it sucked! Motors blew, transmissions, parts, brakes failed, and suspension generally sucked, but at the time we didn't know any better.
I've used the tape trick around the shaft, Loctite, super glue, even aluminum foil. It's hard to find but there is a special Loctite that has about the same hold factor as standard red, but expands twice as much. NAPA can usually order it, but doesn't stock it. Air Force and Army helo mechanics can get it. If your shaft is good, and you use a good brand lever, properly tightened, with Loctite on the bolt, the Loctite on the shaft is just a precaution, but why not?
StuJohnson
New member
I saw this post on Thumpertalk.com
Curious if anyone here has ever heard this or may know.....?
Posted 04 June 2013 - 02:44 PM
Anybody know if a shifter from anything else will fit the ec's? I broke my stock 011 shifter and replaced it with a spare that I had kicking around from the earlier version. Problem is , it's to short by at least one inch. I do know that the shifters got longer with the later year models just not sure when that occured.
Edited by widebear, 04 June 2013 - 02:45 PM.
The 125 shifter is longer.
I've heard that the DRZ shifter is the same. Have not confirmed it though.
Curious if anyone here has ever heard this or may know.....?
Posted 04 June 2013 - 02:44 PM
Anybody know if a shifter from anything else will fit the ec's? I broke my stock 011 shifter and replaced it with a spare that I had kicking around from the earlier version. Problem is , it's to short by at least one inch. I do know that the shifters got longer with the later year models just not sure when that occured.
Edited by widebear, 04 June 2013 - 02:45 PM.
The 125 shifter is longer.
I've heard that the DRZ shifter is the same. Have not confirmed it though.
If I remember to take my shifter to cycle playground next trip I can check it to the TM's. I think they have the same spline. The shifter that is hanging on the wall looks a lot nicer than the one that was on my 03(which still has the stock btw..) and more like my 97's shifter which is still on the original shifter. Altho I did bend the shift shaft once. the shifter was fine..? tip is beat looking but still works.
GMP
Active member
Another option I verified but never did was a reshaped Pampera shifter. They are all steel, same spline and approx same length. The bend is a little different but could be adjusted with a torch and some muscle. Didn't want to risk screwing it up as it was on my wife's bike.
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