Swingarm needle bearing removal method?

[brider]

This question is very similar to one I posted about how to remove the (2) bearings in the rear linkage bellcrank. Got those out OK, but in the swingarm, the (2) bearings in each "side" are butted up to each other, no way to get a puller behind one. So, without a press handy, is the only way to get them out is to beat them both out in one direction using a suitable-size socket? The seals are a bee-otch to remove, too, but I can figure that out.

Coming up with a stable setup to pound squarely to the INSIDE is going to be a challenge, unless I can use a really-long 1/2-in extension thru the opposite set of bearings and pound to the outside.

 

[gasgasman]

I use the Motion Pro bearing remover. Just push both bearings out together.
Use the same tool to push the new bearings in from the outside.
Remember the bearings have a flat side, that's the side that the bearing installer pushes against.

 

[gasgasman]

 

[SS109]

Yep, the Motion Pro tool makes it really easy. I use to remove them with two appropriately sized sockets (one to push the bearings and one to push them in to) and a HD c-clamp. It worked ok but the Motion Pro tool is way better.

 

[Anders]

I just turned up a drift and a ring in my lathe. The drift goes inside the bearing, the ring i used to push the bearing into. Then I use my vice as a press.

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[cbutler]

I made one like the MP with some all thread, some washers and 2 nuts appropriate socket to accept the bearings when they're pulled out

 

[brider]

Thanks, all. I got the bearings out OK, and was looking at this MP Installation tool, but the listed sizes don't seem to match up with the actual bearing size I removed from my swingarm (2003 EC300):

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-swingarm-bearing-tool?sku_id=173899&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_campaign=Text-Vendor%20Tail-Motion%20Pro-Accessories&utm_term=bi_cmp-471222444_adg-1233653127090520_ad-77103454556858_kwd-77103679544735%3Aloc-190_dev-c_ext-_prd-_sig-2c87e80549751c129abe8224ee515a05&msclkid=2c87e80549751c129abe8224ee515a05

I measured the ID/OD of the bearings I removed, and my ID measures a nominal 18mm, when the kit's smallest ID is 20mm. Am I over-thinking this? Is the ID listed for the tool supposed to push AGAINST the face of the bearing when installing, or INSERT INTO the bearing?

Do later-model Jap bikes (after my '03) have LARGER bearings than my old bike?

 

[gasgasman]

The proper sleeve fits into the bearing. This keeps the needles from falling out.
I've used the same kit on my 2015 and 2018 GG bikes.

 

[brider]

Yeah, I figured the ID fit into the bearing to provide alignment and support for the needles, but the listed ID's are larger than my bearings. Guess I can research the 2015/2018 models and see if I can learn what their ID is. OR, I can just order the kit and HOPE, and return it if none of the sleeves fit.

 

[gasgasman]

I looked at my Motion Pro kit. The sleeve that is marked 20mm, works on our bearings.

 

[gasgasman]

Speaking of swing arm bearings.

On the seals. Do you put the lip facing outwards?

 

[brider]

I re-calculated my bearing size (was using SAE calipers, read them wrong and converted wrong...) and confirmed the MP kit works. Sorry for the cluelessness, I ordered the kit today.

I think the seals on my swingarm were installed backwards, I believe the lip goes "in", meaning the "hollow" part of the seal should be in.

 

[gasgasman]

As a long time automotive technician.
We always put the lip towards the fluid you're containing.
In the case of the swingarm bearings. I aways put the lip outwards.
Therefore, keeping the water out.
Logically, makes sense.

 

[brider]

I'd love to see a shop manual from ANY manufacturer that specifies the proper direction to install these simple seals. As far as I can tell, there's no shop manual that describes this in our own archives (please dope-slap me if I'm wrong).

Lip-out makes sense for fluid retention OR keeping out water, but installing a seal like ours with the lip-out means special attention to the INSTALLATION because the surface you would normally press against isn't there....just the very thin outer edge of the metallic retainer, or you'd need a VERY accurate undersized socket to press against the internal face, and hope you don't damage the unprotected lip. This alone makes me think these seals (or any like them) should be installed lip-in.

Also, lip-out makes a standard seal-removal tool worthless. I had to fit a tiny screwdriver down to the interface of the seal and bearing face and POUND to get the screwdriver between them and twist out the seal. That CAN'T be the intended way to get the seal out.

I'm gonna install mine lip-in and see how it goes. Maybe in a season or two I'll be proved wrong.

 

[gasgasman]

Factory seals are installed with the lip inwards.
Either way that they are installed, may not affect the failure rate.
Lip out would be preferred, if you pressure wash the bike.

Fork seals have two opposing lips. They still fail.

 

[cbutler]

Factory seals are installed with the lip inwards.
Either way that they are installed, may not affect the failure rate.
Lip out would be preferred, if you pressure wash the bike.

Fork seals have two opposing lips. They still fail.

Old school O rings for me

 

[gasgasman]

Bearings do last longer with o-rings.