Trailtech rec/reg

[wence]

G'day guys,
I have been told by others that you can use the rec/reg and still have all your light, horn indicator etc grounds connected to the chassis BUT according to trailtech , you must not have them grounded but instead run them all to the negative of the battery.
I have an Ec300 and have a battery setup running off of aux switches and was wondering wo is correct?
I was thinking of removing all the aux switches, tapping in to feed for original bar switchblock and running everything on Dc thhrough the original switchblock.
I have done the floating ground mod and have been studying the wiring diagram.
Main question is grounds with rec reg. The rec reg has a yellow wire to each stator wire, black and red are neg and pos of battery and system.
What do you do with the cdi , horn and kill switch grounds?
Thanks guys,
Mark

 

[slocalspode]

I think your answer is contained in (here) somewhere.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1859
I did the floating ground mod. Added the trail tech Rec / Reg and
added a battery to my EC300.
You might be asking a specific question that might involve a
combination electrical system with some components running
straight DC and some running AC. That is out of my league so
maybe one of the folks here can give you better advise.
Pm me and I will try to show what I ended up doing.
Good luck, Jeff
Sorry if this posts twice. Had some glitch when posting.

 

[wence]

Thanks Jeff,
So you used the Baja designs setup and floated the ground in the stator?
I did the floating ground mod and had the setup(hid ) running off of it. I have since decided that aftermarket switches may not cut it in the wet and have decided to redo the setup through the original switchblock.
Looking at the trailtech rec/reg sheet it shows the whole system floating with regard to earth. Thinking about it , I guess this is because the normal stator would be grounded.
In my case with no grounds in the stator I can possibly get away with doing the baja design floating ground setup,( the top diagram as you did Jeff).
It has all finally clicked for me if this is correct.
GMP .....am I right?
Basically , if the stator is grounded the dc system after the rec/reg must be floating with regard to the chassis.....AND
When the stator has the floating ground mod you can afford to ground the rec/reg with the black wire, ground all the lights, etc, and have the negative from the battery to ground.
The last question is:
In the trailtech write up they say the battery will not charge correctly etc , but once again I assume this is with a stator with grounded windings?
Cheers Mark

 

[slocalspode]

Mark, I believe you are correct.
I grounded the "-" side of the battery to the chassis.
All of the electrical systems are "+12vDC" from the
battery and grounded through the battery.
It has been a while since I was under the seat to be
sure how I did it.
Not sure if these are of any help, but, what the heck.
Floating ground mod on 2K3

My TrailTech and battery set up.

I also added the plug and wires for a batterytender charger. So I can re-charge
the battery at home.
Good luck with your upgrades.

 

[wence]

Jeff,
Thanks mate, I think I will go that way also.Looking at your setup.... how do you change the air filter? Does the battery flip out the way?
Mark.

 

[GMP]

Basically , if the stator is grounded the dc system after the rec/reg must be floating with regard to the chassis.....AND
When the stator has the floating ground mod you can afford to ground the rec/reg with the black wire, ground all the lights, etc, and have the negative from the battery to ground.

Mark,

You understand it correctly. The CDI has its own supply winding that should be isolated from the main power winding in the stator. For this reason It should not matter if it is connected to the frame which is now DC ground. All DC conversions I've heard of with floating stator, DC frame ground still maintain the coil (and kill switch) grounded to the frame. The horn and other DC components of the stock system were previously run on the AC with a diode I beleive, which could now be removed (based on my Pampera). As long as the stator was done right you should be good.

 

[slocalspode]

Mark wrote: "how do you change the air filter? Does the battery flip out the way?"

My bike is a 2002. It has the (side door) access to get to the air filter.
No interference problem with the battery set up.
Jeff

 

[wence]

It is like a weight has been lifted.
Thanks Glenn and Jeff for the info .
I will now rip apart all my added switches and wire it through the existing switchblock, now that I have the floating mod done.
Wonder why they went away from the door, sounds like a good idea to me.
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

You should be good, just check everything with a DVM prior to starting it.

The airbox door was a PIA, IMO. The Dzus fastener worked loose, and it let more water in in wet conditions. On my '03 I had it bolted shut. The '07+ has a completely different subframe and airbox, a one bolt seat, and a quick change spring loaded filter design.

 

[wence]

I have been talking to Justin at trailtech and he is of the opinion this will not work.I know Jeff and many others have done it and it works so I think I will go ahead and do it today.
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

Bottom line, regardless of bike, if the winding is isolated to the input of the rectifier/regulator ONLY (floating), it should work. Just check it with an ohmmeter. The only potential issues I see are from DC components like the flasher that were driven from AC through a diode will now see +12VDC, so flash rate may change. Speedo as well.

 

[wence]

Cheers Glenn,
Have started the transformation but got diverted as I realised the radiator brace brace rods had come undone nearly.
Then between bidding od a damper and child duties I have basically been stopped for a bit.
Mark

 

[wence]

Managed to get out there in the heat and finish.
All good, I now have hid, and battery power even if bike is not running.
All my lights except indicators work, horn, kill switch and most importantly bike starts.
Great.
Thanks to everyone for the help. By the way the turn tech battery is unbelievably light and compact.
Indicators will be a little bit of trouble shooting and I may have to sort something out with the rear indicators as they are leds.
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

Mark,

The flasher is undoubtably set up for the half wave recified AC, as well as lamps not LEDs. It may be eaiser to just scrap it and get a proper flasher for LED indicators. On my Ducati, I swapped the front LED indicators for different ones and the flash rate became too fast, I had to match the current of the OEM indicators with parallel resistors, a PIA. You can find stuff like this online from vendors that do custom LED lighting components.

 

[slocalspode]

Forgive me, for I am old slow and forgetful.
I think I solved my flasher problem with an after
market auto electronic flasher.
===============
Stock on the right:

And I believe I swapped two of the wires in the plastic connector.

The flasher cost somewhere around ~$5.00 US
Jeff

 

[wence]

Thanks guys, I will have a look at these options.
Cheers Mark