I have an 01 200 Xc with W/P forks. I also have a set of Ohlins forks from a 200 that I'd like to put on but I noticed that the lower triple clamp is a different size. The Ohlins fork tubes are a larger diameter so my question is where can I find a lower triple clamp or is there one from a different bike that is interchangable?
Triple clamp ??
- Thread starter rippn450
- Start date
Hi
I've been a lurking around for a while, but your thread finally prompted me to register...!
I've got an 05 ec200 - and might fit Ohlins forks to it - since I rushed out and bought some...
Both triple clamps are different and genuine clamps are available since Ohlins were an option - at least in 05 - I assume earlier models would be the same.
I haven't sourced some yet, to see if they fit ok, but I believe recent model honda CR / CRF triple clamps are the right size for the Ohlins forks. I've done some quick measurements and they seem the right size for the forks. The stem is a different size, so you would need to try to fit the gasgas stem to the honda triple clamps. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has done this.
I bought some forks that were intended for a cannondale. My installation efforts stalled as the end caps for mounting brakes and for the axel were also obviously different to the gasser.... Must get back to it though - Can anyone tell me if it worth the effort???
Richo
I've been a lurking around for a while, but your thread finally prompted me to register...!
I've got an 05 ec200 - and might fit Ohlins forks to it - since I rushed out and bought some...
Both triple clamps are different and genuine clamps are available since Ohlins were an option - at least in 05 - I assume earlier models would be the same.
I haven't sourced some yet, to see if they fit ok, but I believe recent model honda CR / CRF triple clamps are the right size for the Ohlins forks. I've done some quick measurements and they seem the right size for the forks. The stem is a different size, so you would need to try to fit the gasgas stem to the honda triple clamps. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has done this.
I bought some forks that were intended for a cannondale. My installation efforts stalled as the end caps for mounting brakes and for the axel were also obviously different to the gasser.... Must get back to it though - Can anyone tell me if it worth the effort???
Richo
GMP
Active member
Save your $$ and time and get the Zokes dialed in. They work really well with a minimum of tuning. I had a Cannondale with Ohlins. They have terrible Pro-Action valving that needs to be scrapped. It was way too stiff on the Cannondale and will be unridable on the GG. You need special tools to service the fork properly yourself, where the Zokes are easy. Then there is the foot issue to deal with.
still - saves a bit of work...
GMP
Active member
Cannondale Ohlins came with either .47 or .48 springs if I remember. Three stage valving with Pro Action pistons, not the OEM Ohlins pistons. It was stupid stiff for me at 180 lbs., and the bike was 270 lbs with a lot of compression braking. Felt more like an SX setup than a woods setup. Les redid the whole package and it worked well, but honestly not as good as the Zokes. Ohlins are a PIA, you can't even change the oil easy as the carteidge is very difficult to bleed. JMO, but I'd put them back on ebay and use the cash to have the Zokes totally dialed in for you, unless you just want the challenge of the project.
Leon_gasgas
New member
Hi!
I have the opposite opinion about these Ohlins 46 forks from Cannondale. The biggest problem was to fit them properly on the ec250 ´98 first (for up to 07 model then it was a simple swap...at the end the whole 07 bike was stolen...).
I ended up paying extra for the axle and spacers from blackwidow.com, a new front wheel with disc from ebay, brake setup from a honda cr250 03 and 20mm offset clamps from protaper(ebay) for CR/CRF 2004. The honda stem is OK on the gasgas as long as you use the gasgas top bearing. The stock 24mm clamps from a crf are not good for enduro. I tried them first. The fork is easy to service and revalve the compression yourself as well as to change the springs. Search the forum for setup info on them. The quality is top as the other Ohlins forks and all parts are available from Ohlins (I needed some parts and all came fast from Sweden). The junk info that these are low quality forks was created because this liquidization damaged (or it was a threat) the Öhlins fork sales in the US. Plus negative feedback from the mags about the pro action valving, especially for off road.
I suggest to sell the Marzocchi setup and find the rest of the parts needed for a correct installation of the Ohlins on the gasgas. Especially if you plan to keep the bike for some time.
I have the opposite opinion about these Ohlins 46 forks from Cannondale. The biggest problem was to fit them properly on the ec250 ´98 first (for up to 07 model then it was a simple swap...at the end the whole 07 bike was stolen...).
I ended up paying extra for the axle and spacers from blackwidow.com, a new front wheel with disc from ebay, brake setup from a honda cr250 03 and 20mm offset clamps from protaper(ebay) for CR/CRF 2004. The honda stem is OK on the gasgas as long as you use the gasgas top bearing. The stock 24mm clamps from a crf are not good for enduro. I tried them first. The fork is easy to service and revalve the compression yourself as well as to change the springs. Search the forum for setup info on them. The quality is top as the other Ohlins forks and all parts are available from Ohlins (I needed some parts and all came fast from Sweden). The junk info that these are low quality forks was created because this liquidization damaged (or it was a threat) the Öhlins fork sales in the US. Plus negative feedback from the mags about the pro action valving, especially for off road.
I suggest to sell the Marzocchi setup and find the rest of the parts needed for a correct installation of the Ohlins on the gasgas. Especially if you plan to keep the bike for some time.
GMP
Active member
richo,
I've had all three forks apart (Ohlins, Zokes, WPs). Compression or base valve removal and springs are the same on any fork, thats the easy part. Revalve is not just compression however, and an oil change requires cartridge bleeding like any fork. If you find it easy to bleed the Ohlins cartridge, you either have the tool, or did not get all the air out. I suggest you give Les a call and ask him, he did a lot of Cannondales during their breif history.
I'm not saying the Ohlins fork is bad, it is a very high quality component. What I am saying is that for an average rider/racer who does his own work its a hassle and expense thats not worth it.
What don't you like about the Zokes? Make sure that lower clamp is not too tight, 12Nm. They could use a little shim tweaking but are not bad stock.
I've had all three forks apart (Ohlins, Zokes, WPs). Compression or base valve removal and springs are the same on any fork, thats the easy part. Revalve is not just compression however, and an oil change requires cartridge bleeding like any fork. If you find it easy to bleed the Ohlins cartridge, you either have the tool, or did not get all the air out. I suggest you give Les a call and ask him, he did a lot of Cannondales during their breif history.
I'm not saying the Ohlins fork is bad, it is a very high quality component. What I am saying is that for an average rider/racer who does his own work its a hassle and expense thats not worth it.
What don't you like about the Zokes? Make sure that lower clamp is not too tight, 12Nm. They could use a little shim tweaking but are not bad stock.
Leon_gasgas
New member
I changed myself the oil more than 5 times and never had any problem to bleed the cartridge without any tool. Just pulled the rods up and let them go down themselves sometimes. With the 17mm + 13mm hex you can do a compression revalve in 30min. I never touched the rebound valving and still I transformed them to a very good level (with the help of KTM-Lew for an one stage stack). Imagine what can still happen if one who knows and has the additional tools checks the rebound as well. Also, in 220 hours of use they required one seal cleaning. They leaked only when the seals got dirty and never again when I simply cleaned them with a seal mate.
I don't say the other forks are bad. I just got tired of reading about how bad these forks are... and in reality they are great and can be transformed easily to whatever you like.
Glenn, I am not going against you. I just wanted to mention that these forks are actually top quality and they are waiting for just one respringing and revalving.
I don't say the other forks are bad. I just got tired of reading about how bad these forks are... and in reality they are great and can be transformed easily to whatever you like.
Glenn, I am not going against you. I just wanted to mention that these forks are actually top quality and they are waiting for just one respringing and revalving.
GMP
Active member
On most forks, air trapped in the top of the cartridge escapes from the damper rod/bushing clearance. On the Ohlins(my Ohlins) this was much tighter and not the case. I was able to do it but it took a very long time for each fork. Les has a tool for this, as a professional he can't take so much time for a simple operation. I don't think your forks are the norm, if they were the tools would not exist. Maybe that bushing is worn?
Leon_gasgas
New member
I don't know if my forks were the norm or if I did 100% correctly the bleeding. I just know that they were already from the 2nd compression revalving much better than the oem magnum 45 of '98 and they were overall better than the 07 oem marzocchi (I tried it for 2 months but I went back to Ohlins) able to be much safer when the speeds passed 30km/hr. Pretty good for a design of 1999, DIY revalving and probably not correct bleeding procedure.
widebear
Banned
I like my Ohlins as well ,but I'm not crazy about the service interval's on them as compared to a simpler fork like wp43, When my ohlins reach 30 hr's I have them serviced for fear of doing internal damage. If you've seen what the oil looks like after 30 hours you will know where I'm coming from.
Leon_gasgas
New member
I was changing the oil every max 25 hours. Sometimes it was very clean, sometimes not so clean. The worst was with Motorex oils. It was cleanest with Öhlins 5W or Motul racing 5w. The worst oil I have seen was from the marzocchi magnum 45 even after 10 hours of use (I remember that the internals of this fork were not anodised causing this kind of contamination to the oil).
I am not writting here to argue with anybody. I just wrote about my personal experience with this cannondale Ohlins fork which made me just buy an EC250 2007 with the Ohlins 48EXF fork. If that fork was bad, believe me, I wouldn't go again with Ohlins.
I am not writting here to argue with anybody. I just wrote about my personal experience with this cannondale Ohlins fork which made me just buy an EC250 2007 with the Ohlins 48EXF fork. If that fork was bad, believe me, I wouldn't go again with Ohlins.
widebear
Banned
Leon I'm glad you posted your observations, I guess I have to re think my theory. Ive only used the Ohlins oil in my forks and it allways comes out looking like used diesel motor oil, I thought that maybee the Ohlins oil had more detergent in it? The guy who does my forks has my oil samples on display just to frighten his clients into the , look what happens when you dont scenerio,So maybee it's heat and the type of fork action being used thats causing these results?
GMP
Active member
My Ohlins oil came out very clean, and the internals appeared to be the highest quality, no argument there. Its just that if you blow a seal before an important ride or race its not as easy a fix. It has happened to me with the Ohlins. Zoke Shivers or WPs can be rebuilt in less than an hour with basic tools, been there as well. I like to do as much of my own work as possible.
widebear,
Could your forks have been misaligned or T-clamps too tight causing friction, wear, and dirty oil?
widebear,
Could your forks have been misaligned or T-clamps too tight causing friction, wear, and dirty oil?
widebear
Banned
Glenn . I guess thats possible but doubtfull .Still on original bushings after 3 years and I've had the forks on and off a couple of bikes a few times. We ride alot here and a three hour plus ride is the norm.Condensation maybee? fork oil really hot , ambient temp + duty cycle+ creek crossings, I dont know?
Loosenut
New member
I love my Ohlins forks. I don't care if they are more difficult to work on, or that you need special tools. They work so well, that I will over-look the extra work they require. We do it for the difficult to grease linkage. (compared to other brands)
I added the High/Low compression base valve to mine and I can go from a rock set up to slamming desert whoops with minimal tweaking of the suspension adjusters. The people at Ohlins USA are very helpful.
Part of the reason for me keeping my old 2000 EC300 is to have a spare bike.
I added the High/Low compression base valve to mine and I can go from a rock set up to slamming desert whoops with minimal tweaking of the suspension adjusters. The people at Ohlins USA are very helpful.
Part of the reason for me keeping my old 2000 EC300 is to have a spare bike.
