Very poor idle

K

Kendog

New member
Hey guys

Just got my bike put back together and I'm struggling to get her to idle
Basically I bought the bike as a fixer upper, I knew it didn't idle when I bought it but I thought a good clean of the carb etc and she would be fine

Anyway 2 months down the line I've done a lot to it
Completely rewired electrics, cleaned everything, full service and guess what it still idles like crap
(Just checked Topend and decoked all fine)

My carb is the stock carb for ec200 2002 (38mm?)

Carb settings

Needle NBHW (stock) 3rd clip
Main - 175
Slow - 50
Slide 5

Anyone got any advice?

Cheers
Ken

Sorry I'll go into a little more detail

Idle screw screwed right in and I've got to turn out the adjuster on the throttle cable to keep it going yet when in riding the bike the revs hang and take a whole to drop down making engine braking none existent.

I've tried a new idle screw and it's the same
Carb off the bike I've screwed in the idle screw and it's lifting up the slide like it should!!
Does this sound like the slow jet is wrong?
 
Last edited:
Most folks will probably recommend a smaller pilot. Try a 42, it seems to be commonly recommended. Have you done a compression test? It should be 180-190psi. Have you checked the squish? Ideally you want it to be 1.3-1.4mm and this may require machining of the cylinder head to correct.
Your bike is old enough there may be some wear on the needle jet. A number 5 slide is on the rich side, but the slide cutaway does not control idling.

I've never been happy with the idle on mine. As long as it can mostly idle, that's all I need. I'm also getting something of a hanging idle, but it's more of a nuisance than a problem.
 
I've just ordered a jet kit with all different sizes

One thing I hate it's jetting :(
Never checked the compression or the squish as I'm about to get this one sleeved and bored to factory spec then I'm going to check the squish.

I do believe my problem is the jetting.
Piston and rings are snug and new no slap etc

Cheers
Ken
 
Yeh bud going for the 42 first after a little digging on the forum it's the norm

Wonder why he had it so big.
Can't wait to get out on this thing. Pulls strong just ticking over and engine braking suck asse....
 
Kendog said:
Never checked the compression or the squish as I'm about to get this one sleeved and bored to factory spec then I'm going to check the squish.
Click to expand...

No sleeve in these motors. There is Nickasil (or equivalent) plating directly applied to the bare aluminum bore. The plating is then diamond honed to match the actual piston size.

Buy the piston first and send it out with the barrel (this assumes there is damage and the bore needs rework). If the bore is OK then just replace the piston and rings. The piston is the wearing component. The plating can go the life of the bike if it is not damaged.
 
Neil E. said:
No sleeve in these motors. There is Nickasil (or equivalent) plating directly applied to the bare aluminum bore. The plating is then diamond honed to match the actual piston size.

Buy the piston first and send it out with the barrel (this assumes there is damage and the bore needs rework). If the bore is OK then just replace the piston and rings. The piston is the wearing component. The plating can go the life of the bike if it is not damaged.
Click to expand...

I had been in contact with a company who suggested that it needed resleeved etc so they must not have known it was plated

There is no damage to the plating just it's worn a little but I'm sure the piston that's in there is slightly larger than stock but I'll have to double check

Cheers
Ken
 
On my '06 EC200, I have:

slow 45

main 175

needle N1*HW 2nd clip

*'1' weird looking, like a mix of '1' with a small 'B' in front
Looks like an upside down greek beta letter

Slide #6

I should add that squish is 1.2mm iirc and boyeson carbon fibre type reeds. I get the same thing having to wind the tickover right in whatever slow jet size is used. It generally needs to warm up a little to tick over properly, suggesting being a touch on the lean side on the slow circuit (and could probably sort that on the mixture screw), otherwise runs great.

I believe Lancourt is a popular choice for cylinder repair, both UK and overseas.
 
Ok so update on this

I've dropped the slow jet to 42 now all that happens is I kick the bike over first kick and it starts with choke and some throttle won't tick over so I screw in the tick over screw until she is ticking over

Now as soon as the bike gets warm the bike drops the revs like its hit a brick wall so on with the throttle and tick over screw fully in and it's still ticking over like crap then dies

Adjust the cable adjuster on the throttle she will tick over nicely
This isn't ideal as the next time I kick her over from cold the bike revs to about 9k

Something isn't right here and it's doing my head in :mad:

Cheers
Ken
 
Sounds like the carby is not getting the correct vaccum signal.

Check engine for air/vaccum leaks with carby cleaner/engine start spray.

Places to spray when running;carb mount boot area,flywheel breather hole,right hand powervale bearing,barrel gasget etc.

Good luck.
 
Starting to get fed up with this bike.
I've had it for about 6month now and never got to ride it other than along the street :(

Cheers for the advice

Ken
 
Am I correct that it's super rich at idle, even after dropping the pilot jet?
I'd have a look at the jet block o-ring. Been a few reports of these going with age/use of savage cleaners and it causes the bike to become a blubbering mess down low.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Buying a bike as a project can be frustrating. You say you've got a fresh top end. Did you clean the power valve? Being used it could be clogged up badly. Also, your carb could be worn out. Slides get worn along with other internals.
 
Jet block o ring? Have no idea what this is I'll give google a look
All the powervalve has been cleaned had the dremel in exhaust port with a wire brush on there so it's all clean.

I'm sure it's the carb.
Been looking at the lectron carb but there pricey :(

Cheers
Ken
 
Never seen anything like that in my carb. Oh dear!!!!
Where is it located? Visible when float bowl is removed or deeper in the carb?

I've only cleaned the carb and changed slow jet

Cheers
Ken
 
Take float bowl off turn carb upside down so you're looking at the jet block (the block of aluminum the jets screw into. Remove floats, jets etc then use torx bits to remove the screws securing the jet block to the carb body. Oring is under that. There is a thread on Thumpertalk about it I believe.
 
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