water pump faulty desing

B

barbotte

New member
well i just blow my engine again!! 22 hr after a full rebuild (yes 22hr),,, very not happy with the water pump impeller design ,,, who in the right mind (engineering ) make plastic impeller in a hot engine? not sure if they fix that but my 2014 ec 300 came with plastic and the replacement one too ... the funny stories is that when i finish my last rebuild ,i order the aluminum one ,,i just got it in the mail today ... 1 day too late as it blow yesterday 20 mile in the wood ... it should be in the sticky ,,,, if you buy a gas gas ,,first thing is get rid of the plastic impeller ....
my 2 cent frustration
cheer
Henri
 
Soooo.
Is there more at play here? A 2 stroke would ideally run a 50degC but with limited rad size and slow speed - more likely 70. Some mud bogs walking speed say 80 maybe 90.

Plastic should cope with that easy enough. Did it fail itself? Or were you losing water?

On top of that air-cooled bikes were run well over 100.

I've always run the ally one, just because but. . .
 
My 02 EC 200 and 03 MC250 are stock except jetting and have had no problem with the water pump. My 01 TXT 280 water pump seal leaked about 2 years ago.
 
Nothing wrong with the plastic one, my old 04 had over 20,000k?s on it and it never failed. Something else at play here.
 
DO a search on here. There were big discussions on the plastic impeller touching the cover. Being plastic it should be ‘self clearing’ lol
 
And dude please don't think we're having a go at you kicking you while you're down. We just want to not have it happen a 3rd time.
 
Don't just install the aluminum impeller without checking clearances; it's a very close fit to the housing. You may need to double up on the gaskets.

High engine temperatures take out the head orings quickly. Shutting down at the first hint of trouble is your best bet. I'd say the jetting would have to be lean for the conditions unless you were badly stuck and had no air flow past the radiators.
 
Neil E. said:
Don't just install the aluminum impeller without checking clearances; it's a very close fit to the housing. You may need to double up on the gaskets.

High engine temperatures take out the head orings quickly. Shutting down at the first hint of trouble is your best bet. I'd say the jetting would have to be lean for the conditions unless you were badly stuck and had no air flow past the radiators.
Click to expand...

There was a problem with the impeller clearing the cover on some of the 2010 and 2011s.

Here is the original thread. There is a lot of information on this thread and post 19 includes photos of my plastic impeller and the install of my 2t metal impeller.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14764&page=14

Here is the 2 T racing kit. I checked the clearance on my 2011 and it didn't have a problem and it never overheated but I installed this kit anyway in 2013. I have never had a problem with the new 2t metal impeller.
http://2tracing.it/ricambi-gas-gas/motore/kit-modifica-pompa-acqua-maggiorata-ec-300/
 
Last edited:
quick update .. was in the deep wood single track up the hill and rock very slow speed ,,, engine over heat ..impeller mostly melt ,, engine start making nose ,,i need to get out of wood ,,finally get out of wood engine stop no coolant left .... impeller gone ,,, pull the head of,, head is melted ,,, the rest not sure yet more to fallow tomorrow ,,, now do i get an original head or do i get s3 head ??? 100$ difference ,,, are the 14 to 17 head prone to break / overheating ??? as they are same part number ..18 different part number
thanks
henri
 
One would have to assume that the impeller is just a victim of the loss of water.
 
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