WER Damper guys

[skid jackson]

I still have the one I ran on my drz. was thinking of putting it on my 06 300 as a safety thing. It would mount down on my fender as it did on my drz .. looking at the fender it looks like you would really have to hack a hole in the fender to get it on. it seems like the fender goes up right in front of the lower 3x clamp. word up on wer fitment please.

 

[stay_upright]

I can't help on the WER but have a GPR on my GG 300 and it definately helps keep the throttle pinned on bumpy sections. in fact I turned it up a little but during the last race.

 

[MattC]

I am also looking at fitting a WER dampener I already have to my 08 250 EC. The options I have considered are either:
1. Using a mounting plate under the front guard & cutting the guard as you have described.
2. Using an angle section mounting plate & bolting onto the existing threaded holes on the bottom triple clamp. This lifts it clear of the guard but you have to remove the radiator overflow bottle to fit the dampener arm to the frame & cut-out the lower part of the head light to clear the torque arm.
or 3. Drill & tap 2 x holes in the upper triple clamp & mount the dampener upside down under the speedo. I have done this before & it worked well on a 2001 KTM 400 exc. Trouble is on the Gas Gas the upper frame where you mount the torque arm is angular so you have to rivet the mount plate on instead of bolting it through the frame & the rivets may work loose.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.

 

[rpduc]

There is a WER damper on the maybe parts bike - maybe for sale '03 DE 250 I have sitting in the shop. ( I should pull it off and use it) I know the '03 fender ( might be aftermarket) is different than on my '05 MC 250. It doesn't have the hump like the '05 fender. I guess I can't remember if the KX 250 fender I put on the '05 has the hump... The damper IS bolted on somehow on the '03 but I can't picture that right now either.

All of this blather is to say I will take a look and snap a few pics when I get to the shop today. But it might be this evening before I'm back to the puter.

 

[MattC]

As I've got an enduro on this weekend, I gave up on the idea of installing the spare WER dampener onto my 08 EC250 due to the cutting & hacking involved & instead raided the GPR unit off my KTM525.
The GPR unit along with the upper handle bar clamp fits straight onto the Gas Gas, however I had to file out the inner dia of the torque-arm clamp that fits around the frame under the top triple clamp from 60 to 62mm.
Now to fit the WER back to the 525.

 

[crem55]

On my 02 I only had to cut some of the bottom of the head light off. There is a mounting plate above the fender and a bracket on the front of the frame by the steering stem.

 

[eff]

On my 02 I only had to cut some of the bottom of the head light off. There is a mounting plate above the fender and a bracket on the front of the frame by the steering stem.

The problem is that the newer models have a different fender shape. The WER will bolt right onto my '04 without a problem too.

 

[crem55]

sorry my bad. I have a scotts on my 05. I have a 02 pinkish fender brand new if anyone want it to mount thier wer with it

 

[skid jackson]

anyone know if an old school fender will bolt up to my 06 300?? Might be cheaper to run and old school fender then get another damper!!
Still riding sans the damper

 

[rpduc]

Man I dropped the ball on this...
The UFO KX 250 fender I fit to the '05 MC does have the hump so that is not an option. I keep forgetting to bring the cam out to the shop... I am putting it in the car right now. I have both fender types lying around and should be able to assess interchangeability between the models today.

I'm intrigued by the idea of mounting upside down as MattC mentioned.

I apologize in advance for all of these ignorant newbie questions but I just completed my first enduro this weekend (after 30+ years away) and I was sure wishing I had fit this damper about 50 miles out...

This WER that I have looks/feels like it maybe has been neglected. (previous owner was not big on maintenance) How does one determine if the thing is working properly or if it needs to be serviced? I haven't messed with it too much but the action when yanking on the arm does not feel "smooth" or "progressive." Rather there is a "loose" spot in the center of travel and then more like a braking action at a certain point out from "center" both directions. Seems to me as this one now sits that loose spot would still allow a significant amount of bar shake before the damping occurs. I expected a more of a "damper-like" action, but maybe these things operate differently?

Can I service this thing myself? I thought previously I saw info on the WER website about servicing, but now all I see is a pretty much useless Flash site
(who ever decided Flash was so great?... I will admit the contact page is nice... )

 

[Rick]

Is the shaft that comes out of the damper round where the linkage arm bolt round, or is it machined with a "flat" spot? If it has a complete round shaft, then the damper is "old style" shaft and wiper which is located inside the damper. The shaft that is round then machined flat area is the newer style model. The wiper is made of nylon material, and can wear down cause the damper to not work properly, less damping action.WER can rebuild the "old style" and install the updated shaft and wiper for about $100.00, which is labor and all parts. There is NO moving parts except the shaft and wiper in the WER dampers, so nothing to wear out excpet for the wiper.

My WER was getting to the point that it was doing nothing but taking up space under the headlight. I changed the oil, and bleed the unit, but still acted lile it was not working. I even went as far as putting in 80wt to see if that would work, nothing. The wiper was shot, flat worn out. Trying to bled the air out is a pain, best to let WER do it to ensure all the air is out of the unit. If you sent the unit to WER, send the mounting plate also.

 

[rpduc]

Thanks Rick,
The shaft has the flats machined on it. I e-mailed WER and he got right back to me and asked me to give him a call. I called and he 'splained it to me just about like how you did in your post. 100 bucks for them to do a rebuild or like 89 bucks for just the parts and tricky to get them bled correctly. Hmmm what to do...

I think I'm going to tear it open just to see what's going on in there and then probably send it to Drew to get it back up to snuff.