What's the best way to remove the master link plate after it's pressed on?

MattR

Super Moderator
Here's my dilema:
I always have trouble getting the master link plate off after it has been pressed on. I use a chain press tool which is great for pressing the master link together. However, when it comes time to disassemble the chain... that outer plate is a pain to get off. Also, if you over drive the plate slighter during assembly and want to back it off a little bit... what's the best method to use?

My current method is typically to take a big screw driver and try to pry the plate from side-to-side. Slowly, I get it to walk its way off of the master link pins. Since this may cause the oring seals to get damaged, there has to be a better method.

What do you guys do?
 
I should have stated that this is a non-riveted master link. I use the kind with a slide-on clip. After taking off the clip, you now have to get the plate off... this is when the struggle begins.

Do you guys use screwdrivers, another tool, etc. to get the plate off?
 
That's odd Matt
It should just pull off, maybe one or both of the pins are mishappen

They do have to be pulled off square though, if it's tight then I'd guess a screwdriver behind the plate would help
 
I should have stated that this is a non-riveted master link. I use the kind with a slide-on clip. After taking off the clip, you now have to get the plate off... this is when the struggle begins.

Do you guys use screwdrivers, another tool, etc. to get the plate off?

I just gently walk them off with a screwdriver same as you. If your carefull you won't damage the rings.

No way you'll get DID VM series links off without somesort of tool (and yes I mean the split clip type). They actually press on. Can't install without tools either.
 
chain&links

i have a 2004 450 fse and it does not have a master link. i am the second owner. is this style chain O. E. M.? as for removing the master link. rotate rear wheel so the link is on the rear sprocket,pull clip then TAP the link out.
 
Matt,

Just use a chain breaker. I have a large one and just work each pin a turn at a time until its free. Works fine.
 
Matt,

Just use a chain breaker. I have a large one and just work each pin a turn at a time until its free. Works fine.

I was afraid chain breaker would bend the master link since the other pin is attached. But like you said, if you do it one turn per pin then it should work ok. I'll give that a try next time. The screwdriver method works but seems like a caveman approach.
 
I use the screw driver method. Before my backpack with a sweet selection of tools got stolen I used a chain press. Regarding installation of the masterlink, I recently saw pictures of the cases on a WR that had a masterlink failure and they were ugly. A simple way to prevent such a catastrophe is to install the master link such that the clip is on the inside of the cahin. If it fails, it would come out away from the cases not grind/cut into them.

Paul B
02 se 300
02 WRX
 
PEB, that is a great tip, thanks.

Matt, call me a caveman, but I've been gently prying my links off with a screwdriver since 1982. Never a problem. Maybe I'm one of those intelligent, sensitive cavemen like the ones in the Geico commercials...
 
MattR:

I too use a "removable" master link for my D.I.D x-ring chain. To remove it, I use a small two-jaw gear puller, placing the "jaws" on either side of the link (closest to the clip) while keeping them in-line with the pin--which in turn contacts the puller's threaded post. A couple of quick turns, and the outer plate is removed.

For balance, I use a short Craftsman 3/8" "T"-handle and a shallow-well six-point socket. This configuration keeps the torque I'm applying directly over the pin, thus helping to stabilize the procedure.

This set-up is a cheap alternative to buying a specialty tool. In fact, it's so easy to use, even a caveman could do it! :-) (I remove my chain after every second ride for a thorough cleaning.)

Happy Trails,

TP
'03 EC 300
 
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