Recent content by 5valve

For premix use as stated in manual, usually 2% or 1:50. More oil is not more safety. More oil means leaner air/fuel mixture which is less safety, so you have to increase jets. Not worth the fuss unless you are riding full on mx tracks. Any synthetic oil designed for trail will do, meaning it has...

Having this weird issue. Once I had transparent plastic stuck above valve needle and it leaked occasionally unill removed and it stopped. Now it is occuring again. Nothing stuck inside. It can leak or not. Probably does not leak or leaks less when riding. Sometimes during ride pause, when...

Happy to adjust it ont he fly, got demotivated quickly, as unit, made in germany, is mediocre in design. Function is great, craftsmanship also, but adjusting nut, once preloader got counter loaded by spring, forced the tool to interfere with the piggy to a great degree, therefore it was cutting...

Which oil? Brand doesn't matter. Gradation 10w 30 or 10w 40. Even 75W80 or single grade 30 or 40 or 80 or 85. Synthetic, partial or mineral..does not matter. Once you feel oil doesn't perform anymore, replace it. 5-15 hrs, depending on abuse. There is no risk factor if you use any of the...

2018GP finally running as it should. I like more of a dark, non flashy look to reduce attention.

Most certainly. I was struggling with vertical lines in nikasil. Most probably due to high compression forcing rings outwards too much. Slovak tuner who bumps up compession for max performance on a 250, uses 14:1 and high octane fuel. And 250 can handle more than 300.

At 65 to 67 hrs I've done 5 hones, had whole engine apart 2 times, changed 2 pistons, 2 crank bearing sets, con rod replacement. Issue was too high compression from factory, at 15.4:1. It took long to realize, since air pressure gauge showed ok compression. Fluid measurement went off the...

For sure. I just crammed orings behind seals or behind washer plates for double protection and it works. Tested on previous bike.

Good to hear. 40Nm for 300s is down to 26 with extension.

I remember your spring snapping. Im putting engine together. Replaced all trans bearings, as one was notchy when installed, had to increase case hole slightly, it squeezed bearing too much. No clue where particles came from except if my mistake. Also modding all linkage to accompany extra oring...

Sth missing here? Older models had plastic washer between shift axle and case. Most big particles were stuck under scorpion, making shifting impossible. What torque values do you guys use on primary & clutch nut and magneto bolt. Booklet still says 40Nm for all, while in GG riders tech files...

Buy a 12 spanner, with both open end and ring end and make a special tool out of it. Grind the outer ring thinner so it can fit on the nut. Grind the open end of the spanner a bit wider, rougly to 12.7-13mm, so it can fit snugly on the 1/2" square socket attachment on the torque wrench. Go to...

dont torque one side first. It has to be gradual criss cross patter. Grind a ring spanner or buy a thin one that fits. 12mm is rougly 1/2", so you can easily fit a 1/2" torque wrench on the open side of spanner and correctly torque the nut. Spanner-torque wrench should be completely in line...

Last one from ebay auction, but generally limited to 300kb file size. The two Euro Marcs said machining is from factory.

Need a special bearing puller for depressed bearings without exit hole. Web search shows the cutout is supposed there, but polished area is not there, at least on the older models. Will need to ask one of the 3 Marks, the Berg, the Haftka or the Moravek on that one.