Just got a used '05 EC300 yesterday. I just switched from a KLX300 to this bike. Needless to say, I'm stoked on this bike! I find the clutch interesting...especially regarding drag. So far I have not been able to start it in gear with the clutch pulled in? Is this normal? The KLX would start in any gear...albeit better in neutral. When idling the EC300 in neutral it tends to have a bit of a chugging feel like its slightly engaged. Similar experiences out there?
05' EC300 Clutch Drag
- Thread starter gasIdaho
- Start date
The clutch should not drag.
Start with the easy stuff...
Bleed the hydraulic clutch and check the lever adjustment. This will ensure that it is free of air and providing full clutch rod actuation.
Try a different transmission oil. Of the many, many oils I have tried, I have had the best results with AmsOil Formula 4 Stroke 0W-40, Castrol MTX and Rotella 5W-40 synthetic.
If those don't eliminate the drag, then you will need to check the clutch plates for warpage/defects.
Start with the easy stuff...
Bleed the hydraulic clutch and check the lever adjustment. This will ensure that it is free of air and providing full clutch rod actuation.
Try a different transmission oil. Of the many, many oils I have tried, I have had the best results with AmsOil Formula 4 Stroke 0W-40, Castrol MTX and Rotella 5W-40 synthetic.
If those don't eliminate the drag, then you will need to check the clutch plates for warpage/defects.
Just changed the gearbox oil. I used AmsOil 10W-40 (900cc)...couldn't get the 0W-40. Shouldn't make that much of a difference? Changed out the clutch fluid, bleed it, etc. Rode it around for 15-20mins to get it warm. Still can't start it or push/move it while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in all the way. Other than that, the clutch seems to work fine. I just have to start it in neutral and then shift into gear. Trying to get some consensus on this before I dig into it more. thx/Mike
MattR
Super Moderator
My bike prefers to start in neutral. I can start it in gear but it is more effort. Usually a bit of throttle and stronger kick lights her up. "In gear" starts will only happen with the engine warm. Cold starts or after sitting awhile will require neutral and the choke on.
Also, I use Rotella 5w-40 synthetic oil. I really like this oil due to its low drag and minimal fuzz seen on the magnetic drain plug during oil changes. Great price at Walmart (gallon container) and I change it about every 100 to 150 miles.
For me, anything over 5w oil feels too thick. I can't find Amsoil 0w but Rotella 5w is readily available... so Rotella is my preferred choice. When I get my new four-stroke, I plan to run the same Rotella in it too. I can not justify the expense of so-called "motorcycle specific" gear oil at $12 per liter.
Also, I use Rotella 5w-40 synthetic oil. I really like this oil due to its low drag and minimal fuzz seen on the magnetic drain plug during oil changes. Great price at Walmart (gallon container) and I change it about every 100 to 150 miles.
For me, anything over 5w oil feels too thick. I can't find Amsoil 0w but Rotella 5w is readily available... so Rotella is my preferred choice. When I get my new four-stroke, I plan to run the same Rotella in it too. I can not justify the expense of so-called "motorcycle specific" gear oil at $12 per liter.
It is totally counter-intuitive - But, one common mistake is to adjust the lever "out too far"...
Make sure you don't have the adjustment for the lever/master cylinder piston too far "in". If you do this accidentally, then the fluid will not be replenished back into the piston from the reservoir and you won't get "full throw".
By the way, I couldn't get mine to consistently start in gear until I switched to a yamaha yz kickstarter and used a thinner oil - rotella 5w40 syn.
jeff
Make sure you don't have the adjustment for the lever/master cylinder piston too far "in". If you do this accidentally, then the fluid will not be replenished back into the piston from the reservoir and you won't get "full throw".
By the way, I couldn't get mine to consistently start in gear until I switched to a yamaha yz kickstarter and used a thinner oil - rotella 5w40 syn.
jeff
Congrats on the bike, you made the exact same switch as me. I had a KLX300 and quickly outgrew the bike.
Almost every bike I have ridden has had a bit of drag. My bike will start in gear everytime if it is hot and hasn't fallen over. I use ATF in the gearbox will no problems.
Almost every bike I have ridden has had a bit of drag. My bike will start in gear everytime if it is hot and hasn't fallen over. I use ATF in the gearbox will no problems.
GMP
Active member
There is a difference between the Amsoil 10W-40W and Rotella 5W-40W oils. Plus, the Rotella is cheaper and eaisly available at Walmart or most truck stops. I'll bet the oil does it for you. Do as Jeff said and check the lever adjuatment, as well as make sure the clutch is bleed correctly. Finally, give it a little break in time. If it still drags when hot, take the plates out and check for burrs on the fingers of the friction plates. Not common, but it did happen on my '03 and was eaisly cleaned up with a few strokes of a fine file.
My 03 FSE has pretty bad clutch drag. I can't flick it out of gear into neutral while stopped. I've blead, adjusted the lever in and out, and still have drag. I haven't tried ATF yet. The bike has very low time on it so I'm pretty sure the clutch is fine.
Jeff, can you use ATF in a four stroke? Does the Gas Gas gearbox share the crankcase oil?
Jeff, can you use ATF in a four stroke? Does the Gas Gas gearbox share the crankcase oil?
mike989 said:
Before you screw up your engine, or Jeff replies.... DON'T USE ATF IN A 4 STROKE !!!
Your engine takes about 1.8 litres of semi-synth 4 stroke oil or better. ATF is only good in the 2 stroke gearbox, not for lubing cams/lifters etc.
Its also only about a 7wt oil and can't handle the heat.
By the way, "jeff replying" is much worse than your engine blowing up! 
If you search over on the four stroke forums. Diesel rated oils (HDEOs) are very popular in four strokes. Given that a 10w40 or a 20w50 is recommended in the gasgas 4 stroke, I would think that going with the shell rotella 5w40 would be okay in your bike and would help alleviate clutch drag. If it were me, I'd probably drop some delo 15w40 in there and see if it helps.
To be honest, clutch drag is an issue with many gasgas clutches. On my bike I went to a magura clutch master cylinder with a slightly larger piston. It does have a slightly harder pull, but it's still fine.
jeff
If you search over on the four stroke forums. Diesel rated oils (HDEOs) are very popular in four strokes. Given that a 10w40 or a 20w50 is recommended in the gasgas 4 stroke, I would think that going with the shell rotella 5w40 would be okay in your bike and would help alleviate clutch drag. If it were me, I'd probably drop some delo 15w40 in there and see if it helps.
To be honest, clutch drag is an issue with many gasgas clutches. On my bike I went to a magura clutch master cylinder with a slightly larger piston. It does have a slightly harder pull, but it's still fine.
jeff
I couldn't find the Rotella 5w-40 or the AmsOil 0W-40. I put in Mobil 1 Full Syn 0W-40 and this was the ticket! I'm amazed at the difference. Been on 2 rides(total 100mi) so far on hot days. I also bought a bottle of Castrol Syntec 5W-50 I'll try next time I change it...couple of more rides. THX!
GMP
Active member
Be carefull with the automotive oils! They are loaded with friction modifiers. Even the new Mobil 1 15W-50W Gold Cap caused clutch slip/squeal in my VRod. Drained that out pronto, lucky no ill effects remained. Diesel oils as Jeff says are very good, more than adequate. I would not run any of the light weight auto oils in an attempt to eliminate clutch drag after my experience. Go to a truck stop and you should be able to find the Rotella, or order the Amsoil.
