'06 EC300 Nissin Front caliper

brider

New member
JUST got around to bleeding the front brake on my '06 EC300 after having the bike for 8 mo. I knew it was dry (bike was shipped TX-to-CT), so I filled the master and hooked up my nifty vacuum bleeder to the bleeder bolt. It began to draw air/fluid, but I closed the bleeder to look at the master fluid level, then started back at the caliper and cracked the bleeder, and NOTHING would come out; the vacuum would not draw, and when I finally took the bleeder bolt out completely and pumped the lever, nothing came out of the caliper.

So I dis-connected the brake line banjo, and yes, fluid will pump out of the line, but not thru the caliper (even though it did initially).

I've re-built a few calipers in my day, but I'm wondering if it's worth it, will all the Nissin calipers on Ebay, new and used.

I can find CALIPERS that look identical to mine (Yamaha, KX, and Honda look like they all use this caliper), but the mounts look different; can this caliper easily be separated from the mount?

This is the LAST thing keeping me from riding it. I took it around the yard with just the rear brake, and it kinda scared me because it seemed so FAST, and it's been 21 yrs since I rode my CR250. Am I crazy or what??!!
 
I found with a dry system the best way (for me) was to push the pistons fully seated in the caliper and start from zero with bleeding. Bleed the line first (pump/bleed process) before moving to the caliper. For some reason the vacuum doesn't work well on a dry system, but it works wonders on a full system with light aeration.

You can try removing the pistons and filling the caliper manually, but that's a bit messy.
 
Swap mounts easily?

And yes, you can switch out the caliper mounts easily. I've done it on a few here recently.

WTF?! I pulled the caliper off last night and put it on my bench. The attachment to the mount looks like a complete mystery; there are (2) posts from the caliper that look like they're screwed in to the mount, but both have a rubber "bellows" squished between the caliper and the mount. And (1) has this rubber extending up thru the caliper to end in a big, squishy bulb where I would think a bolt-head should be (we can all see this if we look at the caliper as it's mounted on the fork). The other post ends inside the caliper casting, almost as if the entire caliper screws with this post into the mount, except it can't because the 1st mystery-post is there.

Please explain? I wish I had pics to show, but if you've done this, then you know what I'm talking about.
 
If I am following you , those are like the "guide post" that allow the caliper to "float" on the pins. The pin can be removed, the rubber "bellows" can be removed.

The caliper can be removed from the bracket that secures to the fork leg. Just "push" it apart. Like a sliding motion.

I pull mine apart once or twice a year and clean / lube those pins to ensure the caliper has free movement. I think it helps with reducing wear on the stationary brake pad.

Hope that help.
 
When I was much younger I had a Fantic trials bike. I couldn't get the front bled correctly and ended up rebuilding the master cylinder and caliper in a bucket with 2 gallons brake fluid (with the hose) all while submersed. A little extreme but it worked great. Not that I suggest doing that, just wanted to share because every time I see a "can't get it to bleed" thread it makes me think back and laugh at myself:D
 
When I was much younger I had a Fantic trials bike. I couldn't get the front bled correctly and ended up rebuilding the master cylinder and caliper in a bucket with 2 gallons brake fluid (with the hose) all while submersed. A little extreme but it worked great. Not that I suggest doing that, just wanted to share because every time I see a "can't get it to bleed" thread it makes me think back and laugh at myself:D

HAHA:D That is the most crazy/genius out of the box thinking I've ever heard of, thanks for making my day with a good laugh..
 
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